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Did the jumper test just now, and the tach shows the beast idling at 500rpm. It'll be in the truck tomorrow if it doesn't rain. Would of installed it today, but I'm running out of light. (wondering if they'll do a time zone change for me for just about an hour...)
I had a similar problem with a tach cluster I picked up. Everything but the tach worked....did some tests and found out that I was getting coil signal and both grounds (checked grounds for continuity), but no 12V for power. I ran a separate wire to switched 12V and it's worked perfect for over six months now.
Just curious, but does the ammeter (CHARGE gauge) work on your new cluster? My old non-tach cluster's ammeter didn't work, but when I swapped in the tach cluster, now the ammeter jumps up a little when I start my truck.
Don't know about the ammeter yet. All I tested was the tach. Guess I'll find out tomorrow.
I'm gonna reassemble just enough to be able to start the truck and see if all the gauges are working, so if I need to pirate the old cluster for something, I won't have to take everything back apart.
Here's crossing my fingers...
Last edited by Anafiel; Nov 20, 2010 at 10:15 PM.
Reason: corrected homonym
Good luck! I love the tach in mine. Went ~50 miles in the ol' truck today, and the tach never got more than a hair over 2K. I guess a bit lower rear gearing would cure that issue......
Got the cluster installed. Pinned the tach signal and ground to the two wire (green and black) connector by the old DSII module, and the tach works great! But I'm still not 100%
Both the turn signal indicators and the high beam indicator don't work. When I start the truck, both the emissions and brake indicators light up just as their supposed to.
Looks like a bad printed circuit film/board. There are a few "questionable" traces, and one came off when I pulled the connector this time. It was one of the short ones that doesn't look like it goes anywhere.
Found the circuit boards at LMC Trucks for $99.95.
But what about this...why don't I just pull the speedo and tach and cluster lens, put them in my old cluster, and direct wire the tach? I know my cluster board is in fine shape, so all I'm lacking is wiring for the tach, right?
I mention pulling the speedo and cluster lens because I want the trip odometer.
Good luck trying to find that circuit film for a tach installation.
You can just install the tach into your old inst cluster and hard wire the 4 posts.
Found the circuit boards at LMC Trucks for $99.95.
But what about this...why don't I just pull the speedo and tach and cluster lens, put them in my old cluster, and direct wire the tach? I know my cluster board is in fine shape, so all I'm lacking is wiring for the tach, right?
I mention pulling the speedo and cluster lens because I want the trip odometer.
If you want the trip odomenter cluster, put the non-tach circuit film on it and hard wire the tach. It is easy to swap in a tach, but the trip odometer swap will get real hard real fast. Jim
It is easy to swap in a tach, but the trip odometer swap will get real hard real fast.
Why's that? Don't the trip and non-trip speedos mount to the cluster shell the same way? Two small screws?
+1 on the circuit film swap. I didn't think about you having the film from your old cluster, I was about to offer to send you my old non-tach cluster for free, lol.
FWIW when I hard-wired a power wire for my tach, I used an eyelet terminal on the tach end of the wire, and I flipped the little retainging nut over from its normal position so that the top is facing the tach. That way you can get it nice and snug and have a good connection. The flat side didn't work that well when I tried it.
Why's that? Don't the trip and non-trip speedos mount to the cluster shell the same way? Two small screws?
I think the hardest part would be drilling a hole in the plexiglass cover for the trip meter reset. I guess you might be able to swap the whole cover...
Swap the whole lens (cover). The push button you press is a part of the lens. The speedometer with tripometer only has a small lever that the push button on the lens touches.
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