Never heard of either.

When I had my hydroboost installed it never made noise, not even when it crapped out.

Josh

 

I've been running Hydroboost on my 79 F150 for about two months. The box with new seals has started to leak and the Hydroboost usually whines most after first starting the truck and when the RPMs are low. Turning and braking at the same time with a cold engine bogs the engine down. I need to look into a pressure regulator or something for my steering. I thought the reason for the whining was that I had the wrong pulleys, but I went back to the junk yard last week and pulled the crank pulley from the e150 I pulled all the other steering parts from When compared, they were the same.

 

73 fourxfour, if your not gonna run your cruise control anymore I sure would like to buy your speedo cable from you and would send you another one that goes from your gauges to your trans that doesn't incorporate that speedo servo like you have now and I need now.

 

Fix the seals in the box it's allowing air in the system. Look at your ps fluid. It should have no bubbles. An external tranny cooler for your power steering is a good idea too..

I got my box seals rebuilt at a good ship that deals with gear boxes as I tried and had no luck. I think the trick was they use Vaseline on the new seals. I may have put mine in dry.

 

Sorry BigDaddy, I'm planning on hooking the cruise control back up, so I need what I have. That project comes after I get the A/C back on and working again.
I have a tranny cooler on the power steering side and I laid it sideways along the bottom of the front of the radiator. The seals in the box are new, but now that all steering components other than the box have been replaced, and it's been aligned, it's obvious the box is worn out, so I'm going to save for a new one. I didn't soak the seals, but I did use fluid when assembling, so the whole thing is probably shot.
When I put the Hydroboost on, I also put on new rubber brake lines master cylinder, rotars, pads, and had the drums turned. I still need to re-bleed the brakes because I didn't realize a line was leaking when I bled them. Even with that, the truck stops AWSOME! And I might not see any difference after bleeding them, but I still want to see if I can get it to stop even better. I could have done this upgrade much cheaper, but I must be getting old because I didn't want to ever have to worry about any part failing, so I bought everything new.

 

Everyones always very impressed after a hydroboost upgrade.

 

My hydro was self applying after 6 mo. of installation. Going from 65-35 mph in rush hour LA traffic can be an interesting way to meet people, but I'd rather avoid it. After some research I tried a simple change of the fluid return lines into the T, and it seems to have stopped the problem. I'll post a follow up. It seems the line from the HB should connect to the top cross bar of the 'T', and the line to the resv. on the other side of the top bar. The line returning from the s.box connects to the bottom of the T. Who would of Thought?

I should thank a member for posting a diagram of the lines for the info. Thx.

 

I posted before I found the results. After a couple of days of driving after swapping the lines, I can say that if anything, the change has made the condition worse.

I'm sending for a rebuild kit. It should be interesting to open it up and 'boldly go where no man has gone before', or at least where so few here on the forums has. I found a dealer of the kits. They are very reasonable at about $20 for the seal kit, and about $50 for the kit with 'metal parts.'

 

I'm looking forward to hearing how your rebuild goes. Mine wasn't too bad at all. I didn't get the 'with metal parts' kit, but think that's a good move on your part.

 

i feel your pain i put a hb in and the pump made noise it also leaked so i bought a reman. same luck. bought the next gen pump with plastic housing no leak still whines. changed hb again no luck i am in the process of doing the saginaw upgrade. if that doesnt work i going to run a hose from the exh. to the cab and go to sleep. so if you dont hear from me again it made noise.

 

I'm curious why you thought I may need the kit with the metal parts. You have done the rebuild. I don't even know what metal parts they are referring to, so I have no way to decide. A bit of help would be much appreciated.

BTW, I saw an interesting vid on youtube, entitled: Frankensix. It's a dyno run for a 311 hp I6 300.

Thanks.

 

One of the suggested steps, which is nearly required to replacing some o-rings and such, is to cut free the break pedal arm. I didn't get the metal parts in my kit that would have allowed this, so I had to be very creative in getting those things replaced. I can speak with you and share some pics (if I still have them).

 

Very interesting. I bought the 'with metal parts' from MBM, for IIRC $48. I guess that won't be bad If I have to cut and replace the pedal arm. To install I had to cut off the Astro van end and weld on one for a Ford. So I can certainly do it again. I'm looking forward to the rebuild and installing a new bracket too.

I've noticed that although I used what was supposed to be a Saginaw pump, picture posted, my steering seems to be low in power when using the brake in parking lots, etc., so I think I'll change my p/s bracket and go with the 'canned ham' Saginaw unit that came on mid eighties Econo vans. Oh yeah, and I need to install a filter and cooler too.

 

I PULLED THE PUMP AND BRACKET OF AN EARLY 80 E350. BUT HAD TO SHIM IT TO MAKE THE BELT LINE UP. DO I NEED THE PULLEYS OFF THE VAN? GOOD NEWS IS THE WHINE IS 95 % GONE.

 

So I have been doing a lot of reading and can someone tell me what all I would need to convert to hydroboost . Year? Make? Model? And other parts I can but from a a parts store that would save time. I kinda new and am just getting confusing I am also looking to swap to front disc breaks and would like to know what I can get it from straight bold on conversion. Thanks so much