hydroboost questions
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
If you have the chevy hydroboost the rod will be the same for the new master cylinder I think. If not the best way to do it is reuse yours from the stock brake booster which is what I did.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,195
Likes: 387
From: Near Los Angeles
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,195
Likes: 387
From: Near Los Angeles
Well, tomorrow I'll bleed the steering and the brakes, and hopefully be down the road, able to stop on a dime. Ultimately I took back the Astro van master, and went with one out of a 92 Chevy 1 ton, C3500, part #M1668. It is a bendix made for 4x disc, as I have, and it has a 1 3/8" bore. I'll let everyone know what I think.
<a href="http://s659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/?action=view&current=P1010448.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/P1010448.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I did one major screw up: In my rush to finish, I bled my master with p/s fluid!!!! When I realized what I did it was already on the vehicle, so I just sucked out the p/s fluid with an ear syringe, and bled at first junction in the lines, about a foot under the master.
<a href="http://s659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/?action=view&current=P1010448.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/P1010448.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I did one major screw up: In my rush to finish, I bled my master with p/s fluid!!!! When I realized what I did it was already on the vehicle, so I just sucked out the p/s fluid with an ear syringe, and bled at first junction in the lines, about a foot under the master.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 373
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From: Chesapeake Va.
Speaking of screw ups, Boy was I wrong with my info awhile ago to you about putting the right cliper on the left and the left on the right for e-brake cable pull ease.
I have to take my set up apart and look at this mess again from scratch, I had the arms for the e-brake "clocked" wrong and was never pulling/pushing the pistons out.
Gona tackle it again this week and IF I can come up with a solution I'll post it.
HOWEVER, I do think I disovered a way to use our cables by unspringing them at the shoe end, slidding the cable into the sleeve, snapping the sheath into the cable holder, and this allows us to use the factory ends of the cables into the arms.
I have to take my set up apart and look at this mess again from scratch, I had the arms for the e-brake "clocked" wrong and was never pulling/pushing the pistons out.
Gona tackle it again this week and IF I can come up with a solution I'll post it.
HOWEVER, I do think I disovered a way to use our cables by unspringing them at the shoe end, slidding the cable into the sleeve, snapping the sheath into the cable holder, and this allows us to use the factory ends of the cables into the arms.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,195
Likes: 387
From: Near Los Angeles
I hate to see anyone mess up like that. I know these calipers are a PIA! If you need to, go to the j.yard and pull the lever arm and the cable holder from another caddy. GM made those style levers through the early 80's. They are stamped L or R, for the direction they pull. The brackets are the same.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 373
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From: Chesapeake Va.
Yea I have a set from 79 however they are not stamped r/l BUT I will figure this out, in way too deep now.
You dont give up either, and looking good with the hydro conversion also.
This is asking alot but myself and I am sure others here would be very appreciative if when you get done and are satisfied with the hydro conversion would you be so kind as to give a part number break down with corresponding years?
You dont give up either, and looking good with the hydro conversion also.
This is asking alot but myself and I am sure others here would be very appreciative if when you get done and are satisfied with the hydro conversion would you be so kind as to give a part number break down with corresponding years?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,195
Likes: 387
From: Near Los Angeles
I bled the p/s hydro. What a trip. I still need to bleed the brakes. The pedal seems rock hard initially, and grabs great, but if you apply more force, it drops 2". I'm sure that will vanish when I get the brakes bled well.
The fronts, and right rear cals seem to be dragging hard at idle.
I found out that with this master, for 4x disc, the larger of the line ports, the rear reservoir, goes to the rear brakes. I had plumbed them backwards. It is amazing to feel how quickly it stops! Another step accomplished toward regaining control of a 35 year old truck.
The fronts, and right rear cals seem to be dragging hard at idle.
I found out that with this master, for 4x disc, the larger of the line ports, the rear reservoir, goes to the rear brakes. I had plumbed them backwards. It is amazing to feel how quickly it stops! Another step accomplished toward regaining control of a 35 year old truck.
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 373
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From: Chesapeake Va.
But doesn't the larger line on our stock set up go to the larger side of our stock reservoir which feeds the front calipers?
Just asking out loud and without going back to read all the past make sure you have taken the residual valve out of your proportional valve if yours is still stock and don't get sold on having to have an inline residual valve either.
Is the one rear caliper dragging due to still having to figure out these f-ed up calipers and brackets we are dealing with?
Just asking out loud and without going back to read all the past make sure you have taken the residual valve out of your proportional valve if yours is still stock and don't get sold on having to have an inline residual valve either.
Is the one rear caliper dragging due to still having to figure out these f-ed up calipers and brackets we are dealing with?
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,195
Likes: 387
From: Near Los Angeles
But doesn't the larger line on our stock set up go to the larger side of our stock reservoir which feeds the front calipers?
Just asking out loud and without going back to read all the past make sure you have taken the residual valve out of your proportional valve if yours is still stock and don't get sold on having to have an inline residual valve either.
Is the one rear caliper dragging due to still having to figure out these f-ed up calipers and brackets we are dealing with?
Just asking out loud and without going back to read all the past make sure you have taken the residual valve out of your proportional valve if yours is still stock and don't get sold on having to have an inline residual valve either.
Is the one rear caliper dragging due to still having to figure out these f-ed up calipers and brackets we are dealing with?
The right rear has dragged since I installed it. I know I can replace them with bolt in chevy calipers and scratch the ecable, but I don't want the .... things to get the best of me. But I'm getting real close the taking them off and beating the **** out 'em with my long handled sledge hammer ... and kicking them around a bit just to feel good about it!! Another satisfied customer.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 373
Likes: 0
From: Chesapeake Va.
Instantly pictured Clark Grizzwald kicking the sheit out of Santa and his tiny reinder in the movie Christmas Vacation!!!!!
Hear ya clearly I am not gonna give up on mine either, if I figure em out or make some progress I'll post.
Hear ya clearly I am not gonna give up on mine either, if I figure em out or make some progress I'll post.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,195
Likes: 387
From: Near Los Angeles
When I'm cruising along, it sounds like the hydro is making a faint tapping noise. When I let off throttle, it stops.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,195
Likes: 387
From: Near Los Angeles
I ended up with p.#2535 at A.zone as a master. The p.#1668 seemed good, but I could not get two of them to get pressure in the front line. The new one is for a '92 Chevy C3500 one ton with 4X4. The brakes rock now. They are so good, so strong, so easy, that it is scary. Never, in all the years I've had the truck have they been so good!
Tips: The p/s lines for a 1990 F350, F450 super duty bolt directly to an Astro van hydroboost unit--no adapters, no fittings at either s/box or hydro unit are needed. Buy them at Rock auto for $15 each. Some careful bending is required.
Tip #2: Either stay with the oem pump, or change to a Saginaw, which is much stronger and puts out great pressure. The one that will bolt right in is part # 20-6244. It is made by A1 Cardone, or was. Currently the only place I could find it was Kragen/O'reilley's. $78. This pump did not come oem on any vehicle. It is strictly an A1 Cardone coversion of a Saginaw p/s pump, made for a bolt in swap into a ford.
Tip #3: The Bendix p.#1668 (A.zone) is difficult to bleed. You can't get the front line to pump. I finally had to run a fine wire through the fluid opening at the bottom of the reservoir, to make sure it was not blocked, and then I took an ear syringe, and filled it with b.flud, and squirted fluid in through the b.line port. That was on master #3. It worked great.
Tip#4: On a disc/disc master, the port with the large fitting always goes to the rear brakes.
#5: Always be careful what type fluid you are pouring. I put p/s fluid in my master by mistake, and it cost me a new master.
#6: The early eighties ford Econoline vans had Saginaw pumps with oem brackets.
Tips: The p/s lines for a 1990 F350, F450 super duty bolt directly to an Astro van hydroboost unit--no adapters, no fittings at either s/box or hydro unit are needed. Buy them at Rock auto for $15 each. Some careful bending is required.
Tip #2: Either stay with the oem pump, or change to a Saginaw, which is much stronger and puts out great pressure. The one that will bolt right in is part # 20-6244. It is made by A1 Cardone, or was. Currently the only place I could find it was Kragen/O'reilley's. $78. This pump did not come oem on any vehicle. It is strictly an A1 Cardone coversion of a Saginaw p/s pump, made for a bolt in swap into a ford.
Tip #3: The Bendix p.#1668 (A.zone) is difficult to bleed. You can't get the front line to pump. I finally had to run a fine wire through the fluid opening at the bottom of the reservoir, to make sure it was not blocked, and then I took an ear syringe, and filled it with b.flud, and squirted fluid in through the b.line port. That was on master #3. It worked great.
Tip#4: On a disc/disc master, the port with the large fitting always goes to the rear brakes.
#5: Always be careful what type fluid you are pouring. I put p/s fluid in my master by mistake, and it cost me a new master.
#6: The early eighties ford Econoline vans had Saginaw pumps with oem brackets.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 7,195
Likes: 387
From: Near Los Angeles
I read that it is wise to install valve on the line from hydro to s. box which reduces the psi in the line. Otherwise the older boxes will start to leak after a while.
Has anyone heard of this?
Also, I have read it is a fairly common trait for the h.b. to whine, or make noise while driving.
Has anyone heard of this?
Also, I have read it is a fairly common trait for the h.b. to whine, or make noise while driving.