Couldn't have said it better myself!

Oh - and if you like my stuff - waste an hour or 2 looking over my crew cab build thread and the supercab thread (I can get links if you want). Or you can go straight to the source and skip the BS chat by snooping around in here
74 Ford Crew cab Cummins swap pictures by ChaseTruck754 - Photobucket

 

Thanks for the link. Yep, very nice work. I hope to be at that level one day. One question: would you recommend having my h.b. rebuilt before installation, or just go with it as is. I know very little about them. Thanks. I just laugh when looking at the photos, because both those trucks are going to be super vehicles when done!

 

I bought my hydros used on eBay. I got them dirt cheap ($60 each shipped if I remember right) so I'm just going to try and run them. If I run into issues I'll get them rebuilt of buy a rebuilt one. From what I have seen though grabbing them from the yard and just running them is the norm. Haven't really heard of them going out too often - but maybe people just don't think to post about it if that does happen down the road???

And yes - my goal for both trucks is for them to be "built ford tough and then some!" Getting back to the post from you that I quoted - I use the best parts for the job which ends up being a mish mash of stuff off chevy's, ford's, dodges's, even toyota's, etc. Some guys around here get their panties in a bunch over it and that annoys me - hahaha. I don't get the blind brand loyalty thing - especially when many of the parts come from 3rd party manufacturers/suppliers!

 

I'm curious about what trans you've selected for your trucks. I have a tricked out c6 now, but miss od real bad. I've been keeping my eyes open for a sb ZF. I hope to do that conversion somewhere down the road.

 

Crew cab is getting a built NV4500 5 speed behind the cummins. The supercab is getting a race built c6 with a gear vendors OD unit (originally bought when i though the crew was going to be an auto) behind the 351w.

zf5 wouldn't be bad in either truck though!

 

Hey guys. I'm getting ready to install the hydro unit. Is my stock p/steering unit enough? Or should I install a saginaw from the get go?

I found that the 79 Lincoln MK V ($50, rebuilt at A.Zone) has the needed unit, but would, of course, require getting it to mount/fit on my 4.9 bracket.

I'd like to hear what you think.

 

I cut, beveled and re-welded the brake rod. I just took the ends of the lines down to the hose building place and had lines built. If you can use factory lines, that would be a lot better.

The hydroboost has a big nut on the back that prevents it from mounting directly on the firewall. I built an adapter that is 3/8" (?) thick that adapts the original firewall mount holes to the hydroboost.

I think I put pictures of mine in my gallery.

 

You do realize the Astrovan hydroboost units use different fittings than Ford units correct?

It's in the link I posted.

Josh

 

I tried my new lines from a 90 s.duty with hydro. They bolt right into the hydro unit. The ford oem lines have the metric size on one end, and the sae on the other. The only place I'll need a fitting is at the p/s. pump, and a T on the return lines, if I don't get a saginaw p/s pump.

390fordgashog found the same thing.

 

F-250 restorer can you spare a minute and walk me thru uploading my pics please

 

I got a free hydroboost off of a 91 astro, with disc/drums. Not sure if the master cyl. will have adequate piston sizes, but might just end up trying a 78/79 F250 master cyl.
As for the pressure lines, I just cut the steel lines and will flare them to fit some aircraft highpressure hose(lyin around) or end up having some hydraulic lines made to fit. As long as the pressure rating is good, and compatible with the fluid, should be cake.

 

Sure, you can PM me, or just sign up with Photo Bucket. You just copy and paste the link right into your post. When doing the photos, I just go to 'File', and open a new window. Then I just copy at Photo Bucket, click over to FTE, and paste into my post.

 

Thanks a bunch and I should apologize for hijacking your post but I couldn't take it anymore.

 

I too tried the 78/9 mastr. I found my brakes worked better with the oem mastr. My original mstr--for F350--has 1.250" bore. The 78/9 has 1.125" bore, although the reservoir is larger. Now I am swapping to the master Ford used with 4Xdisc on it's 2000 F450 S.duty. $48 rebuilt at Kragen! "1 3/8" bore.

 

I got a trick for you guys trying to figure out your lines. On the newer superduty units in the hydro boost outlets they take a line with a o ring. What I did is made custom Russel performance build it yourself high pressure lines with a standard flare end but to compensate for the o ring you can purchase something called a "Ferrule" that pops into your hydroboost fiting outlet that now makes a connection on the ferrule with your inverted flare line vs having a oring that might tear. If you do use the o ring style you should coat the o ring with p/s fluid. Its funny cuz I went to my hydraulic shop looking for lines and they had trouble finding what I needed until I mentioned the ferrule idea that i seen online and bam the guy had them in stock and it fixed the problem. stupid little things were like 10-12$ each which seems like alot as its the size of a pencil eraser.

As for the 1 3/8 bore master if your running rear discs that master is ideal as the larger bore pushes more fluid,but less pressure than a smaller bore,but the larger bore will give a shorter pedal stroke. The hydroboost itself will more than make up for the less pressure with a bigger bore master. As for rod to pedal length i aslo cut mine about an inch and rewelded. Do not attempt if you are not a confident welder and you must bevel it to make good penetration. It is one of the most critical welds on your entire truck!!!! I also would put a tube on the rod first a couple inches long before you weld it so after it is welded you can grind the weld smooth then slide tube over weld joint and weld sleeve tube on both ends for added security if you follow. Other idea I thought of was cutting rod to length them tapping threads on each end connecting with a threaded sleeve to connect both male ends.
As for pump go with a saginaw and do the redneck ram upgrade by drilling open the passage. I modded mine and with a professional p/s tester It puts out 1500 psi just like those pricey "superpumps" by AGR or PSC.