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v10 has fast idle

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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 11:22 AM
  #16  
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Like Krewat said, I doubt it had one to begin with. If it was a coil metal spring around the shaft like a click pen, it is highly unlikely to have worked its way out.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 03:47 PM
  #17  
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Glad it was that easy for. i procrastinated and nursed mine for 5 months before i finally replaced mine. I even put a set of Monroe Reflex shocks on , i like them just fine.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 05:48 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by jh818
Like Krewat said, I doubt it had one to begin with. If it was a coil metal spring around the shaft like a click pen, it is highly unlikely to have worked its way out.
I agree, I even scraped off some of the crud just to make sure it wasn't buried underneath. But yeah the spring is just like a click pen, can't imagine anyway it could have come off though.


Originally Posted by fatherdano
Glad it was that easy for. i procrastinated and nursed mine for 5 months before i finally replaced mine. I even put a set of Monroe Reflex shocks on , i like them just fine.
Huh? Monroe Reflex shock, hmmm did you mean to post somewhere else? Just wondering...lol

Thanks again to everyone
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 05:09 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by rmrichards949
I agree, I even scraped off some of the crud just to make sure it wasn't buried underneath. But yeah the spring is just like a click pen, can't imagine anyway it could have come off though.




Huh? Monroe Reflex shock, hmmm did you mean to post somewhere else? Just wondering...lol

Thanks again to everyone

no i'm just lazy and didn't feel like creating a post to announce my new shocks. I'll even take this chance to say that my ex is running so damn fine its like i have a brand new car. (knock on wood)

I've got 6 boys and the ex is the perfect fricking vehicle ever.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 05:20 PM
  #20  
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Thats good..... Im having a small problem with mine as well.... when you start the X at a cold start the idle is 1000 rpms.... after she warms up she will drop to 800 rpms.... all in park or neutral. I guess that would be too high huh? I guess I should just replace the valve....
 
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 10:35 PM
  #21  
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So, was on vacation in Fl and thought brakes were bad because you really had to press them to stop. Got home and weather was horrible. Figured out the idle was high and not the breaks, at times as high as 2000 rpm's. Weather below 0 so figures I would tackle it later. This AM started car to warm up while I was inside. Came out and truck was warm and idling at 2100 rpm's. Put in R and a loud clunk, then I drove off. Then check engine light came on. Panic set it.

At work did a google search and found this link.

Hit myself is forehead for not doing this sooner.

Called dealer and got part ($150) and they had it today. Could have got OEM online for $70 but would have had to wait.

Got home and replaced it.

It was 10 degrees outside and the door would not close with the Ex in there. Actually took less than an hour. Though I had done a job for once without breaking anything until the end. Could not get the bottom bolt tight so I removed the vacuum hose and broke the plastic clamp that holds it in place. Still have not found it. It is in the engine somewhere now lost forever.

After still had CEL on. Hooked up my $80 code reader from autozone and ti said Idle something or other. Deleted code. Started car and all is well.

Anyway, here are my top tips for anyone wanting to do this in the future.

1. Do it from the drivers side

2. remove vacuum hose first. Take it out of the plastic clip and pry off, then you can get to the screws.

3- screw are 8mm and can easily be removed with a socket when the vacuum line is off
 
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Old Aug 25, 2014 | 09:54 AM
  #22  
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From: Bartlett, TN
Originally Posted by gmammakn
So, was on vacation in Fl and thought brakes were bad because you really had to press them to stop. Got home and weather was horrible. Figured out the idle was high and not the breaks, at times as high as 2000 rpm's. Weather below 0 so figures I would tackle it later. This AM started car to warm up while I was inside. Came out and truck was warm and idling at 2100 rpm's. Put in R and a loud clunk, then I drove off. Then check engine light came on. Panic set it.

At work did a google search and found this link.

Hit myself is forehead for not doing this sooner.

Called dealer and got part ($150) and they had it today. Could have got OEM online for $70 but would have had to wait.

Got home and replaced it.

It was 10 degrees outside and the door would not close with the Ex in there. Actually took less than an hour. Though I had done a job for once without breaking anything until the end. Could not get the bottom bolt tight so I removed the vacuum hose and broke the plastic clamp that holds it in place. Still have not found it. It is in the engine somewhere now lost forever.

After still had CEL on. Hooked up my $80 code reader from autozone and ti said Idle something or other. Deleted code. Started car and all is well.

Anyway, here are my top tips for anyone wanting to do this in the future.

1. Do it from the drivers side

2. remove vacuum hose first. Take it out of the plastic clip and pry off, then you can get to the screws.

3- screw are 8mm and can easily be removed with a socket when the vacuum line is off
I'll piggyback off this thread since no one is answering my post! My V10 is acting somewhat different from what this thread has been talking about. Mine has a loping idle that almost dies. We are about to go out on a Labor Day weekend trip so I would like to get it done. I show the same device the back of the throttle body on my V10. could this be my problem?

And another question - I've been told by several that I don't have an Idle Air Control module. Then what is this thing?
 
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