v10 has fast idle
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v10 has fast idle
I did a search thru the forum and didn't come up with anything. So here's my problem; my 05 Excursion has a v10 and now it does not idle correctly. At a stop sign and in gear it idles anywhere between 900 to 1200 rpms. Normally it should be idling around 750. I just noticed this as I had to apply more brake pressure to keep from driving through an intersection. Since this has happened I have changed the air filter and fuel filter. Do you think I need a computer reset, or something else? Any ideas would be great.
Thanks in advance,
Thanks in advance,
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Everything appears fine except for the high idle. I have no check engine light, so I have not attempted to pull any codes. I will try to stop by AutoZone and have them check for any codes.
Where is the Idle Air Control valve located at? I would assume next to the throttle body, now that I think about it there are two hoses that come off of the induction cowl right next to the TBI one of these hoses is bigger than the other and goes back around to the other side of the TBI. Anyway when I pinch down on the bigger hose my idle does slow down to where it is suppose to be.
Thanks,
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I would bet almost 100% its the idle control valve.
i replaced mine and presto all better. In park and at stop signs or lights it was revving real high and yeas it needed additional brake pressure.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Chino, California
How's your engine temperature? Do you get heat when the engine's been running for a while?
Make sure that your thermostat isn't stuck in the open position. If it is, then your engine really never warms up, hence a higher idle RPM.
Make sure that your thermostat isn't stuck in the open position. If it is, then your engine really never warms up, hence a higher idle RPM.
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I stopped by AutoZone and asked them to check the codes....none. Truck is clean as far as codes go. I showed the guy the hose that I could squeeze and thereby reduce the idle and he suggested the ICV too. He printed off a picture of what the ICV looked like, and suggested I spray it out with carb cleaner to see if it frees up, and then to search online about a Ford Idle Reset. Anyone know what this is, I've searched and am not coming up with much. The ICV does look like it has a fair amount of crud in it. So I've cleaned it out some and time to put it back on. May have to just replace it.
If anyone knows of this Ford Idle Reset please let me know. I'm fixing to put it back together and will let everyone know tomorrow what happens.
Thanks,
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Chino, California
Here's a link to a post on the V10 forum that has a photo of where the IAC valve is located.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...dle-rough.html
That yellow dip stick is your transmission fluid level dip stick. Hope this helps.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...dle-rough.html
That yellow dip stick is your transmission fluid level dip stick. Hope this helps.
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Well I took it off and sprayed it out with contact cleaner and put it back on.. now I run at 2200 rpms at idle
, now the truck is out of commission until the auto parts store opens in the morning so I can buy a new one.
Guess I shouldn't of tried to clean it.
, now the truck is out of commission until the auto parts store opens in the morning so I can buy a new one. Guess I shouldn't of tried to clean it.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Chino, California
Did you use carb cleaner? Contact cleaner for where the electrical harness is hooked up to. Carb cleaner for the valve inside.
With the IAC installed but not connected with the wiring harness, will the truck start? Does it idle high still?
With the IAC installed but not connected with the wiring harness, will the truck start? Does it idle high still?
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I had used contact cleaner on the valve side. I electrically disconnected the IAC and it started and rpms were normal for about 15 secs and I thought wow we got something, then it slowly started to increase on upto about 1500. I hooked the IAC back up and restarted the truck and the idle returned immediately to 2000 rpms, I then pulled off the hose from the induction cowl to the IAC and the truck immediately died.
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From: Ohio
Just spraying it normally won't do the trick. I'm trying to recall the innards but I know there is a shaft in there somewhere that tends to get a bit gunked up and not move correctly. I had to do some spraying and scraping in order to get this shaft moving freely and through it's full range of motion. If you don't do that you're wasting time. I'm guessing yours is now pretty much stuck and that's why you have the constant high idle.
Or, since you have to pull it anyway, you can just slap a new on there and be done with it.
Or, since you have to pull it anyway, you can just slap a new on there and be done with it.
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Well, here is the outcome. Went to the parts store today and picked up a new IAC. This install is extremely easy took all of about 15 min. I noticed on the new one that there is a spring on the internal valve that is not there on the old one. But after the install, my idle was still about 1100 rpms. I allowed it to sit there and idle for about 10 mins hoping that the computer would "relearn" and compensate for it. Went back out and sure enough the idle was down to under 750 rpms. Took it for a test drive and it was perfect. After letting off the accelerator my idle dropped down quickly as it should where previously I would have to press the brake to slow down. Now all is good
For anyone who want to see what an IAC looks like here is a couple pics.
As you can see on this second pic I had alot of white crud on the shaft in the right hand port, and also no spring was on the shaft.
Thanks again for everyone's help, it was greatly appreciated.
For anyone who want to see what an IAC looks like here is a couple pics.
As you can see on this second pic I had alot of white crud on the shaft in the right hand port, and also no spring was on the shaft.
Thanks again for everyone's help, it was greatly appreciated.
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Good God I hope not. Never crossed my mind until you said something. Guess there is not much I can do unless it starts acting up. I'm not wanting to dismantle the top of the engine right now. What is the worst you think it could do, get stuck in a valve seat??
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Chances are, the replacement IAC is now manufactured with a return spring in it. I bet the original didn't even have one.
I bet that might be the problem with them sticking. The spring helps to get it moving again because the motor doesn't have enough UMPH to overcome any dirt/crud.
I bet that might be the problem with them sticking. The spring helps to get it moving again because the motor doesn't have enough UMPH to overcome any dirt/crud.