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Hello All! I just got an 7.3IDI non turbo from a friend of mine that has some minor issues. The biggest (or smallest depending how you look at it) one that I'm hoping one of yall can help with is a fuel leak. It appears to be leaking from right around the injector (driver side back two injectors). It's a steady flow when the truck is idling. Would this mean that I should replace the injectors or is there another fix?
Well effieu too. lol welcome to FTE. I need to tell you right off there is a lot of clowns on here. Sometimes I think I am the only sane one here. lol
That would not be your injectors leaking, but the return line T's (way cheaper than injectors) and yes you need to replace them. They come in a kit with new line, new T's and orings. the kits will also have new copper washers, but you will not need them unless you change the injectors too.
don't listen to star.he's the craziest one of us all.
your hit with the most common problem with the classic IDI.
lucky for us,our most common problem only sets us back around 40$ and an hour or two under the hood (for a little while anyway lol) doing something anyone can manage themselves.
And Starmilt is not sane, not by a long shot - he does, however, seem to be very good at pretending he is, so watch out for him. I think he may be a retired ninja too.
[quote=starmilt;9540975]Well effieu too. lol welcome to FTE. I need to tell you right off there is a lot of clowns on here. Sometimes I think I am the only sane one here. lol
Again I'm new to this so please hold the ridicule for a bit but its leaking from what appears to be a hard line connection at the top of the Injectors. The repair I'd for a rubber high pressure hose?
Real common and it looks as if it is the hard line but rarely is, usually it is coming out of the top of the plastic T. One word of caution replace them all at the same time, it is a rare deal for someone to even temporarily get by trying to patch them one at a time.
The reason for this is after the rigs gets warm a time or two the small orings get hard and any disturbance even a little on the T's will start them leaking. Hope this helps The only way for the hard line to leak is if there is a crack in it or the nut or someone cross threaded the nut which happens but not nearly as common.
Bubblegum I was almost smitten and now you have gone and hurt my feelers. RETIRED
Stalling is a different issue entirely - usually it is caused by gummed-up governor inside the injection pump, and is easily cured in this manner:
1) go to parts store or fuel station or truck stop, buy a bottle of Diesel Kleen or Howes or even SeaFoam.
2) when you get home shut the engine off, unscrew your fuel filter, and dump all the fuel out of it.
3) fill up the fuel filter all the way to the top with whatever cleaner you bought, then reinstall it on the truck.
4) start the engine, let it idle for 15 seconds, then shut it off and go inside - you're done for the day.
5) let engine site overnight.
6) start engine, while you crank hold the throttle on the floor, let off when she fires up.
7) let the cold-start solenoids do their thing, when the idle speed drops down after several minutes take the truck out for a drive - stalling issue should be no more.
Basically what all this does is gets the cleaning agent inside your injection pump and then allows it to soak in there and remove all the varnish and whatever else may have been making your governor sticky, that junk then gets either burned off in the cylinders or purged through the return lines, but either way it leaves your injection pump and the proper governor operation is restored.
Stalling is a different issue entirely - usually it is caused by gummed-up governor inside the injection pump, and is easily cured in this manner:
1) go to parts store or fuel station or truck stop, buy a bottle of Diesel Kleen or Howes or even SeaFoam.
2) when you get home shut the engine off, unscrew your fuel filter, and dump all the fuel out of it.
3) fill up the fuel filter all the way to the top with whatever cleaner you bought, then reinstall it on the truck.
4) start the engine, let it idle for 15 seconds, then shut it off and go inside - you're done for the day.
5) let engine site overnight.
6) start engine, while you crank hold the throttle on the floor, let off when she fires up.
7) let the cold-start solenoids do their thing, when the idle speed drops down after several minutes take the truck out for a drive - stalling issue should be no more.
Basically what all this does is gets the cleaning agent inside your injection pump and then allows it to soak in there and remove all the varnish and whatever else may have been making your governor sticky, that junk then gets either burned off in the cylinders or purged through the return lines, but either way it leaves your injection pump and the proper governor operation is restored.
I appreciate the assistance! I will be out of town for the next couple of days. When I return home I will make the trip to the auto parts store and attempt to get my new ride running like a champ. Again, thanks to everyone for there input!
Hey EffieU, do like they say - I had the same problem in my blazer (same injection pump, just turns the other way) and it was cured by a serious overdose of cleaner stuff in the tank. Besides, once it's in the injection pump, it also goes through the injectors, and I'm sure that helps clean them out too (been told they can plug up too, like the pump).
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