Hey guys, I have have one leaking injector, they are the originals (105,000mi). I know I need o-rings (BTW: what kind do I need??) but do I have to replace the copper washer to make it leak free? Will the return line's most likely leak too if I don't change them??

Am I better off just getting new injectors and a injector installation kit from Pensacola diesel and doing them all at once?? Also, I am hoping to get a turbo soon so would I have to get turbo injectors? What is the main difference between non-turbo and turbo injectors???

Sorry if its kinda confusing
snapon.

 

now is the best time to get a set of new bb code injectors or remans if they fit your budget better.
and an injector install kit.
(grab some Viton O-rings sold separately and toss the standard buna-n's in the trash.)

the injectors ae medium ware items.they may or may not have a good spray pattern and pop pressure.
you can pull them,pay to have them tested,wounder how much longer they will last for peak performance and fuel economy,or just do it now.

you need to replace everything with the kit at once.so if you hold off on injectors,then you'll need to install another kit when you do latter.

if you want to keep the injectors until you notice a loss of performance and fuel economy,then you won't use the washers that go under the injectors.just the top O-rings.

its been determined the "G" code were more of the emissions injector.
there are engines with slightly different hp ratings on the valve covers.
my guess is,one of the reasons being G codes were installed,for a loss of 5hp or so.
may not sound like much,but % wise of say 130hp at the rear wheels its like what, about 4%? .......it all adds up.
BB's they claim are best for all engines.

now is also the "ideal" time to replace the ip,or have rebuilt as well.
this is also the other medium ware item of the fuel injection system.
thing is,this one stings the wallet.but just so you know.

next,after the ip and or injectors are fresh,the engines timing should also be ideally checked.
another wallet stinger lol.
you either pay a shop every 30k to keep it in check,time by ear(guess),or buy a meter.buying the meter is the best,most cost effective way,but it's more $ upfront.

you can do a few things to the IDI to increase hp and nuts.but maintaining whats there from the factory is first priority.

if you haven't read this one yet.be sure to check it out:
These parts, generally speaking, are medium wear items, and typically last about 100,000 miles. The main factor determining the lifespan of these parts is the quality of the fuel being used in the vehicle, and any additives that are being used. Due to the high tolerances inside the injection pump, a supplemental lubricity fuel additive is always recommended for longest life. Since the engine is rated for 300,000 miles, this group of parts typically requires replacement several times over the lifespan of the engine. This article will attempt to guide individuals engaged in the pursuit of this activity.

http://www.oilburners.net/wiki/tiki-...hp?articleId=7

at 100k miles (max.if not before) i plan on a rebuild ip,and injectors,new install kit,and engine timing.
i'll start now,slowly setting aside 5 bucks here,10 bucks there in a devoted account "truck maintenance" and when i hit 100k,it will take the sting out of a diesel tune up.

OR,
you could just pretend your driving a gas powered 460 truck for a mile or two,and pocket the difference in fuel economy,and buy a diesel tune up pretty quick this way too.

 

Viton #111 O Rings:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#viton-fluor...-rings/=9vzewd
Part Number: 9464K24

 

I think i am about due for al of that i am getting about 7mpg highway not good truck has 130,000 the ip and injectors have never been removed from the truck. I am wanting to get the timing tool the one on ebay by snap on and then get everything from pensecola it is gonna be $$$ but the truck is way worth it !

 

you have to be careful.
iv been wanting one for a while,but if it wasn't for the help,i wouldn't know if everything i needed was included in the one i bid on.
since you can't get the probs anymore,you have to make sure the correct ones are included.
many i have seen in the past,the current owners didn't list what they had correctly,or left out info,and or poor pics!
i almost goofed up once,and lucky for me someone else bid higher lol.since then i just waited for the correct one to bid on.
i have a feeling im going to make a chevy owner happy.as now i have a discontinued snap on lumy probe to sell too.


iv never heard of such poor fuel economy out of an IDI before.are you sure that's an accurate reading?
you may have other troubles like wheel bearings/brakes etc to check on as well.
one thing i notice,is you really,really, need to keep check of tire pressure with a dually.so much pressure can be lost,and hurt ya spread out over 6 wheels vrs just 4.
not the drastic difference your seeing lol.but it's important.an mpg or more can be gone per tank in a hurry.

 

i am sorry i was putting in wrong numbers on the calculator it is getting around 11mpg still not good right the man i bought it from was going to replace wheel bearings he said and threw the bearings in the tool box with the truck may need them i dont know i will check it out though,and the tires are very bald in the front and the inner dually tires are old and the outers are new and not alighned and balanced so that may also contribute to it.

 

From the Ford manual for the Turbo engines:



There is no mention of emissions on the injector, but it does specify the matching injection pump on the turbos was calibrated to "meet emissions standards"

They do however mention G for turbo and E for N/A, with no mention of BB, so I'm guessing the BBs must have come after the fact, which may explain why the general opinion is that they're better in all cases?

 

Thanks guys so much for your responses! Will the o rings they give me leak, or are you just saying the vitons are better?? And is the return line kit from pensecola diesel good?? Are the rebuilt IP's from pensacola diesel good as well?? Lastly, are the injectors from pensacole diesel good as well (not sure if they have bb ingectors...)?? I'd like to start ordering some of this stuff so I gotta get it straight

Marianna, Is that the part # for the correct viton o ring??

I hope to get bb's Northern Diesel. But like coalroller was saying, pensacola diesel doesn't really specify if they have bb's.

Thanks again for all responces. BTW: I'm still driving it around with the leaking injector, tell me if thats not a great idea.

 

Yes 111 is the correct size and the viton is resistant to the crap that they are putting in the ULSD fuels they're forcing on us. It is also required if you ever run Bio.

PS;
Copy the PN to the search box on the link. It will give you all of the specs of the ORing.

 

Ok just getting some thins straight. Are these the correct injectors and is this the correct kit??

Also, are these the right O rings??

Also I'm driving with my brother 100 miles both ways in a week. You guys think the leaking injector should be fine for the trip???

 

Yep, those are the right injectors and return line kit for you.
Those are also the right O-rings. The "Size 111" tells all.

About the codes, you'll probably get BBs from Pensacola, I just ordered Gs and they send BBs so that's my guess.

I drove with leaking injectors for months, hauling my Broncos and all, no problems other than slow starts. It doesn't take long to change them out though, just set aside a few hours one night for it.

 

Thanks Northern diesel, I called Pensacola Diesel this morning and they said all they had were 'bb's for non turbo and 'g's for turbos. But from what FORDF250XLT and google says, the 'g's are more emissions oriented and the 'bb's should do fine when I turbo the truck down the road. I'm still driving her around with the leaky injector and she is doing fine so I just wait till the order comes in.....

 

The note about the Gs above is from Ford, while I have yet to see anything more than a rumor about this emissions stuff... when they say the IP was modified for emissions but not the injectors... if anyone has a good source for this it would be good to see.

At any rate, even if the G was better than E, there's no speak of BBs, so I'm willing to bet people have shown that BBs are the best. I'm ok with the BBs they sent me and keen to see if they are good, except for the fact that I paid more for Gs and got BB!

 

Did you put the new bb's on yet? If so hows it feel?? Did you ever replace your IP?

 

BBs are still sitting on my bench in the garage, I got sent to Montreal for a week so I'm delayed till next week!
I don't know about the IP, it may be original, but I can't afford it yet! Spent my money to get my D60 donor truck for now. May order one this week, I'd like to swap it with the injectors.
I'll let you know how it turns out next week.