removing rear tank
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Freshman User
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removing rear tank
i have an 88 f150 xlt lariat.
5.0 302 automatic
my rear gas tank has been causing me problems ever since i changed the fuel pump assembly.
about 2 months ago, i replaced both fuel pump assemblies and tanks.
the truck will run perfectly fine while running off the front tank, but it returns some gas to the rear tank.
when i try running on the rear tank, it'll be fine for a minute or two, then starts to cut out and dies, which has me guessing no fuel supply coming from rear tank.
the supply lines all run into a reservoir for the main supply and return, could it be a problem, or the little diaphragm on top of the rear tank?
if i'm not able to get it fixed, i was just planning on just eliminating the rear tank all together and stick with just the front...
any ideas?
5.0 302 automatic
my rear gas tank has been causing me problems ever since i changed the fuel pump assembly.
about 2 months ago, i replaced both fuel pump assemblies and tanks.
the truck will run perfectly fine while running off the front tank, but it returns some gas to the rear tank.
when i try running on the rear tank, it'll be fine for a minute or two, then starts to cut out and dies, which has me guessing no fuel supply coming from rear tank.
the supply lines all run into a reservoir for the main supply and return, could it be a problem, or the little diaphragm on top of the rear tank?
if i'm not able to get it fixed, i was just planning on just eliminating the rear tank all together and stick with just the front...
any ideas?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 690
Likes: 1
From: Madison Ohio
I just changed mine on one of my 89 F250's. was pumping gas from the rear in to the front tank while running on the rear. There a mechanical switching valve and if they sit in one setting to long they kind of stick there. That and the O rings get old and what not.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
I agree with the other posters, but if you do need to pull it down and don't want to remove the bed I outlined the basics in this thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...tank-leak.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...tank-leak.html
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: in the shadows
If you are like me and the fuel tank even empty is still heavier than you are, or you're like my friend who did the job for me despite his at the time injured arm, a jack can be used to lower the tank slowly, and then you can use either the jack again, or ratchet straps to lift the tank back in place - this is if you do in fact need to replace the tank for whatever reason.
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pedant
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
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Freshman User
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both of the tanks are brand new and so are the fuel pump assemblies.
my neighbor helps out with a lot of the work so thats not a big issue.
would it hurt anything if i just removed the rear tank completely?
my neighbor helps out with a lot of the work so thats not a big issue.
would it hurt anything if i just removed the rear tank completely?
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
If you have a cross flow problem due to the accumulator/switching valve being bad removing the rear tank isn't going to fix it.
It will just mean that the excess (returned) fuel has nowhere to go.
It will just mean that the excess (returned) fuel has nowhere to go.
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i was just going to remove the valve and run the lines together so the gas only goes to and from the front tank.
i've tried crossing the return lines on it, and it didn't solve anything, only emptied the front tank quicker. so i hooked the lines back up as normal.
i've also looked around the local jy for the valve, aka dfr (dual function reservoir), but no luck.
i've tried crossing the return lines on it, and it didn't solve anything, only emptied the front tank quicker. so i hooked the lines back up as normal.
i've also looked around the local jy for the valve, aka dfr (dual function reservoir), but no luck.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 721
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From: Monmouth County, NJ
I spent most of today working on a problem very similar to yours. 91 F150, factory equipped with only one tank. Replaced the pump recently after it crapped out on me in a very bad place to have the engine die, but could not get anything more than idle out of the engine afterwards. I was happy enough that the engine ran at all, so I drove home at idle and later spent some time working on the fuel system- electrical tests for all components was good, pressure regulator was bad and replaced, new fuel filter, no difference. I finally did a flow test from the line that goes into the fuel filter, and it failed miserably. Just a couple drips. A full 12v was going to the fuel pump, so I reasoned that it was clogged from my hurriedly replacing it without cleaning the tank. Dropped the tank to find I had pinched the supply line between the tank and bed. Engine runs perfectly now, I'm waiting until daylight to put the tank back in. I refuse to dump the gas in it or remove the bed, so it's a bitch to do alone in the dark, lol.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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You'll just have to stop for fuel more often - not a major concern for most, but if you drive mostly at night through places where gas stations close down at 10pm it may be an inconvenience... Also, when Z-day hits, having as much fuel as possible aboard may make the difference between remaning one of us or joining the undead, lol.
Seriously tho, if both tanks are new and so are the pumps and such, just have them both operational. If you are concerned with the reliability of the factory 6-port electric valve, you can use two aftermarket 3-port manual valves (one for supply and one for return), with those you can also transfer fuel from one tank to the other too while you drive
Seriously tho, if both tanks are new and so are the pumps and such, just have them both operational. If you are concerned with the reliability of the factory 6-port electric valve, you can use two aftermarket 3-port manual valves (one for supply and one for return), with those you can also transfer fuel from one tank to the other too while you drive
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if its as simple as my supply line being pinched for the rear tank, i'm gonna be a little upset, yet really happy too...
for the 6 port valve, its purely mechanical and has no electric parts, only working off of pressure from the supply/return from the tanks.
so my idea of eliminating the tank completely is gone, so now its just to get everything proper again...
i've seen an example of the 2 3 port valves, but i haven't been able to find where to buy them or have any idea on how to wire them up...
for the 6 port valve, its purely mechanical and has no electric parts, only working off of pressure from the supply/return from the tanks.
so my idea of eliminating the tank completely is gone, so now its just to get everything proper again...
i've seen an example of the 2 3 port valves, but i haven't been able to find where to buy them or have any idea on how to wire them up...
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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Oh, okay, my bad, though they're something like the diesel switching valves, as they have the habit of failing in a manner just like how yours failed. About the manual valves, how about something like this:
Ball Valve, 3 Way, 1/4 In NPT, Bronze - Ball Valves - Valves - Plumbing : Grainger Industrial Supply
You'd need two of them, one for supply and one for return lines - IIRC with that style you plumb the lines coming from the tanks to each side of the valve, and the line from the engine goes into the middle port of the valve. Most folks seem to like installing said valves under the cab where the handles come in through the floor pan to the left of your seat so all you do is just reach down there ant turn the levers on the flight.
Ball Valve, 3 Way, 1/4 In NPT, Bronze - Ball Valves - Valves - Plumbing : Grainger Industrial Supply
You'd need two of them, one for supply and one for return lines - IIRC with that style you plumb the lines coming from the tanks to each side of the valve, and the line from the engine goes into the middle port of the valve. Most folks seem to like installing said valves under the cab where the handles come in through the floor pan to the left of your seat so all you do is just reach down there ant turn the levers on the flight.