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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

removing rear tank

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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 04:22 PM
  #16  
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I removed the rear tank on my 89 F250, also removed that fuel selector and ran the lines directly to the front tank. Just make sure you don't flip the fuel tank switch. That will kill the in tank pump but not the HP frame rail pump and give you a low/no fuel pressure and a pegged fuel gage too.



I took out the rear tank as it was dead and full of crap(old gas that turned into tar), plus my wife filled it up and then ran out of gas for some reason".... I put $60 ...... still shows empty...." asked "....which tank you filled up?, the rear one....."
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #17  
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i'll look into 2 of those valves if i can't figure it out soon
i need to check the supply line for the rear tank first to make sure its not kinked at all, hopefully i can see the lines well enough with the bed on, if not, it might be coming off for a day... we'll see about that.

i've been thinking of doing something similar to that, but since both tanks and pump assemblies are only 2 months old, i've decided i'll keep the rear on, just try to get it operating properly.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 05:28 PM
  #18  
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Crawl under the rear tank from the back of the truck, lay your head against the differential and look up, you should be able to see the lines fairly easy like that.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 07:31 PM
  #19  
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They come over the crossmember in the middle of the truck and then along that to the drivers side frame rail, and forward....
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 08:26 PM
  #20  
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Yup, they go just like Jim said.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 08:44 PM
  #21  
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alright, well i guess since its too dark out now, i'll just siphon gas out of it now, and crawl under the truck tomorrow whenever i get home from school.
if i absolutely have to, the bed might come off, since i'll have time this weekend to work on it (if work doesn't call).
 
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 05:24 PM
  #22  
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i just got done crawling around looking at the lines for my rear tank, and they're not kinked.
i got a quote on the price for a new switching valve for my truck from the local ford dealer, and has a $227 price tag on it.
i also heard today that back in the day, when these were new, when they had a similar problem, the dealers would just put check valves on the lines and that was it. does that seem to be right?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 05:30 PM
  #23  
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That's right.
There is a TSB on the issue, I forget the #.
Dealer service would place a check valve in each return line.
There is another thread going with more information about the valve problem.

Edit: Here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-problems.html
 
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #24  
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so that leads towards the tank selector valve, the in dash switch, or the in tank fuel pump...
i bought the pumps at autozone, so i still have warranty on them, would it hurt to try and replace that again?
we suspected it once, and its been changed, if it is the pump, i could keep swapping until i get a good one
 
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 08:45 PM
  #25  
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I don't think it's the NEW pumps.

You could check that by jumpering power directly to them, rather than pulling them down.

Do some testing....
Sometimes an old piezo door chime with a probe and an alligator clip works better than a meter.
You can be in the cab or under the hood and *hear* that there's current at or out of the selector, tank, taillight, whatever...
 
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 09:10 PM
  #26  
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wouldn't i also be able to disconnect the line off the valve, and activate the pump and see if it pumps gas through the line that way?
i dont have anything to test anything with...
 
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 05:22 AM
  #27  
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And how would you "activate" the pump if the switch, relay or selector whose job it is to do that is the problem in the first place?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 09:36 AM
  #28  
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Jim, can he run a very long jumper wire from the battery directly to the pump? Like, maybe unplug the pump from the bunch of wires it plugs into, and then stick the wire from the battery into that plug?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 10:10 AM
  #29  
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the switch in my dash is what activates the individual pump. the valve on my truck is all mechanical and relies on the pressure from the pump to switch between which tank is being used. so i figured if i disconnect the hp pump on the rail, and cycle the key with a line off, it would allow the switch to activate the pump and test its flow that way
 
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 10:27 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by bubblegum
Jim, can he run a very long jumper wire from the battery directly to the pump? Like, maybe unplug the pump from the bunch of wires it plugs into, and then stick the wire from the battery into that plug?
This is what I was trying to suggest in post #25
 
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