Hi all,

I'm brand new here. I just bought an 1989 F250 5.8 EFI. Spent $100 to fill the dual tanks. I have a leaker!! Can anyone provide advice and instructions on replacing the tank? How difficult is it? Step by step instructions? I wouldn't quite classify myself as a "mechanic". I know JC Whitney sells replacement tanks.

I've heard nightmare stories about replacing tanks. Any help?

Thanks,

generalgeorge

 

Step One, buy a bag of cold patch for your driveway........
Really, It'll eat a hole right through the asphalt.

Changing a tank is not so bad if the strap bolts aren't all rusted in.
It helps if you have another pair of hands.
It will be much easier to do if you can siphon or run the tank dry.
Is it the side, or the rear tank?
What do you need to know?
You can get better prices than JCxxxxxy.

 

OH,!!
And, Welcome to FTE.
I hope you enjoy our online community!

 

or you can swap in a Bronco tank if you have the time.

 

Ok, I'm sorry if I'm a pitifully slow typist.

Before you start check and see if the support straps are salvageable, if not order new ones w/ your tank.

Disconnect the battery, and have a fire extinguisher at hand!

(1) You want to try and save or use all or most of that liquid gold you just poured in there.
(2) Regardless of which tank it is and how rusty the straps are you want to soak the retaining bolts and ALL of their threads with PB Blaster or some kind of penetrant oil,......and probably for a couple of days.
(3) You're going to find the fuel lines coming from the tank and unfasten them from the first two sets of clips holding them to the framerail and/or crossmember if it's the rear tank.
(4) If it's the rear tank, drop the spare tire, remove it from the 'sling' bar and swing the bar over to the drivers side for more room.
(5) The nuts on my '87 are 15mm, and if it's the side tank you'll need a very deep socket. It helps if you have a impact gun for this operation. Don't force it, just work the nuts on and off 'till they free up. More lubricant may help too at this stage.
(6) Once you get the tank down (don't hang it by the lines) You'll need to loosen the clamp holding the filler line to the fill neck. I like to do it this way so the inner vent hose acts as a guide getting it back on. Take a flat blade screwdriver and pry off the electrical plug and then the forked clips holding the fuel and return lines in place to the tank bung. The slack you made in step 3 helps a lot here. Gently pull the lines free of the metal necks sticking out of the tank bung.
(7) With a pair of Dikes or pliers just 'peel' out the retaining ring holding the bung into the tank. Don't worry, it's less destructive this way and the new tank comes with a new seal and retaining ring.

I'm not sure about your in-tank pumps since I don't have them but you should be able to squirm the whole thing out as a unit, being careful not to bend the float arm on the sender unit.

(8) Place the new seal around the tank opening, install the unit into the new tank and then fit the new retaining ring and rotate it securely into place. (there are little ramps that force it down into place) A hammer and that screwdriver may be handy to seat it completely.

If you use new straps get some foam "camper seal" weather stripping tape to line the metal straps.

Re-installation is the reverse of removal....

Hope this helps,

And please chime in if anyone has a better idea.
That's just the way I've always done it.

 

ArdWrknTrk said it best, nice work! I would have just got the arc welder out and went to town.

 

what ArdWrknTrk said

 

Where exactly on the tank is the leak ??

I have simply patched many a tank and have never had a problem.

 

Guys,


I've been on the road for a couple days. Just read all the replies and thanks to you all.

ArdWrknTrk, thanks for being so descriptive. You also mentioned I can do better than Whitney's on the price of a tank. I've checked several places online and for the most part, they all seem pretty comparable. Where would you suggest?

netscaner, when I got underneath to take a look, I really couldn't tell. It looks like it's "pooling" right above what appears to be a small skid plate covering the tank. I have some JB Weld that I was looking to try out on it first before replacing.

After talking with my neighbor who replace tanks on his 1988, he mentioned having to "jack-up" the bed. Is that correct?

Thanks to everyone again for the advice.
generalgeorge

 

Welcome back!
You asked for a step by step...

I bought mine here: http://stores.ebay.com/THE-RADIATOR-CONNECTION
It's local for me, and the quality seems ok. Very fast shipping and no damage. Can't say that for my past JC experiences.
YMMV.

I never had to remove or jack up the bed. If you free up the fuel lines as I said you can get the clips off without too much hassle.

I've fixed tanks with Bazooka gum in a pinch, but at the age of our trucks I couldn't see not spending the 40 bucks for a new (rust free) tank. You know it's not just one spot that's seen 20 years of road salt....

 

ArdWrknTrk, Thanks again for the info. Yes, I was looking for a step by step description on how to tackle this. I was expecting a referral to a website or to buy a manual somewher. Thanks for going above and beyond by typing it out.


generalgeorge

 

Never a problem, I hope it helps.
There are so many people here with a lot more knowledge than me.
I'm always glad to share any experience that I might have.
It's just "paying it forward"

Be careful with those fuel line clips, they can be brittle, or lost easily.
Replacements might not be "on the shelf"

 

when you buy the tank, get new clips...they're cheap..and get more than you need

 

while your at it you might want to install new intank pumps. Frequently fail and easier to do while you have tanks down.

 

Hello generalgeorge S. Patton!

The leak can easily be welded and you will save some money. This has been done several times before but it is VERY IMPORTANT that the Tank is COMPLETELY DRAINED and then take it to a Coin Operated Wash and wash and rinse the **** out of it ! The welder will simply fill it with water just below the leak to prevent an explosion (residual fumes) and then simply go about his business.

This has been successfully done several times.

Good Luck and Godspeed!

Mark

Postscript: "There are no problems, only solutions."