Engine knock - 4.0L engine
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
I'd remove the EGR valve, inspect & clean it, then look closely, inside the manafold below where the EGR mounts, for the clogged port. It's somewhat hard to see & easily missed. if you don't know where to look.
That port being clogged up, is a common EGR problem, as is a faulty DPFE sensor, as it controls EGR valve operation.
That port being clogged up, is a common EGR problem, as is a faulty DPFE sensor, as it controls EGR valve operation.
New User
Joined: Oct 2006
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I fell stupid now for posting the question about the Knock....I'm a little forum illiterate. Thank you very much for the information....I'm on my way to buy the PM-3 with my fingers crossed. Oh yea I have to grab plugs also. Thanks.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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Originally Posted by CowboyBilly9Mile
Let's see if we can shed some new light on this one, and put it to rest for many people. I too had this problem and tried different gas, gas additives, meticulously inspecting the cooling system to make sure overheating was impossible, found the jumper that allows me to back off timing 2 degrees, checked the computer for error codes, and cleaning the MAF sensor. Nothing really worked.
The solution is to decarbon the engine. It is all described in TSB 01-19-7, dated OCT 01. I did this and END of the problem. Pay attention to the part about not ingesting the PM-3 cleaner too fast to make sure you don't liquid lock your engine. The only important step they forgot was that you will need to replace spark plugs when you're done. You may also want to lay some newspaper under your tailpipe too, as the crud is gonna flow.
The TSB notes that the driver should have "periods of daily operation over 3500RPM to break carbon from cyl heads". They also note that you should NOT use mid-grade or super duper unleaded, as these increase the probability of carbon buildup.
This repair will cost about $30 if you do it yourself; if you can change a flat tire you can do this.
The solution is to decarbon the engine. It is all described in TSB 01-19-7, dated OCT 01. I did this and END of the problem. Pay attention to the part about not ingesting the PM-3 cleaner too fast to make sure you don't liquid lock your engine. The only important step they forgot was that you will need to replace spark plugs when you're done. You may also want to lay some newspaper under your tailpipe too, as the crud is gonna flow.
The TSB notes that the driver should have "periods of daily operation over 3500RPM to break carbon from cyl heads". They also note that you should NOT use mid-grade or super duper unleaded, as these increase the probability of carbon buildup.
This repair will cost about $30 if you do it yourself; if you can change a flat tire you can do this.
diagnostic software.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,417
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From: Durham, NC
Originally Posted by RangerWilly
The most important part and the part most DIY's fail to do is reset the computer. This must be done. To do this either "remove both battery connections @ battery"
the PCM. Disconnecting both battery terminals is not necessary at all.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 6,940
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From: Eastern WA
Originally Posted by RangerWilly
I disagree!!! Clean the MAF first. Removing, cleaning(w/ elec. contact cleaner) and re-installing takes aprox. 10 min. The most important part and the part most DIY's fail to do is reset the computer. This must be done. To do this either "remove both battery connections @ battery" or "reset" w/ your
diagnostic software.
diagnostic software.
Last edited by CowboyBilly9Mile; Dec 17, 2006 at 06:06 PM.
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2006
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Originally Posted by CowboyBilly9Mile
Guess I wasted my time posting a Ford issued TSB that was intended to help readers here; my big friggin mistake so my regards guys, and ditto on the help it gave people both here, in emails to me, and PM's. I'm sure we will also disagree on usage of electrical contact cleaner. Some of those contain lubricant which attracts dirt. As such, smart guys avoid this problem alltogether by using a different cleaner. We'll probaby disagree on resetting the ECM too since unless a guy understands how the engine management system works on the vehicle that he's working on, he may not realize that not all systems "learn" while driving under all operating conditions. But that's ok, no harm done in yanking the cable (hell, might just as well take both of them off as suggested, and for fun take them out of the truck alltogether, something to do) and the phantom benefits in the mind of the driver/owner will be priceless on vehicles that only *learn* idle.
If you don't "reset" the ECM right away, then you have to wait the required number of "trips" on the vehicle (and then you don't really know if you fixed the problem right away or not). Just my 2 cents!!!
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Let's see if we can shed some new light on this one, and put it to rest for many people. I too had this problem and tried different gas, gas additives, meticulously inspecting the cooling system to make sure overheating was impossible, found the jumper that allows me to back off timing 2 degrees, checked the computer for error codes, and cleaning the MAF sensor. Nothing really worked.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,748
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From: Connecticut
As an example, pulling the SPOUT connector on a Ford DIS ignition system results in fixed spark timing and dwell (10 degrees BTDC).
However, the Ranger EDIS ignition system, which has been in use since the early 90's, does not utilize a SPOUT signal, and so there is no SPOUT connector.
See generally: Ford DIS/EDIS Ignition Systems
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