Hi

My '04 F250 6.0L has 220k on it.

I've had the EGR serviced several times and, unfortunately, the intake manifold boiled out in one of those services.

The engine light is on now and I've got "EGR Performance Problems" just below 2000RPM most of the time but not all of the time (runs better when warmed up)

I've been unemployed for quite sometime so I'm going to have to make this fix myself.

First question, of course, is should I plan to clean or replace the valve?

The second is how to clean the manifold chambers (? right word? The carbon accessible when the EGR is removed. I've seen people on YouTube scraping them with what looks like brake tools. Is there an appropriate tool or chemical?

The third question is is it going to be very difficult removing an EGR valve that may have carbon buildup on it? Too difficult for an aging seldom mechanic to think about tackling?

I guess those are good starter questions. I didn't know until today that EGR cooler may also be part of the problem. Unlike many of the people who post here, I have not kept good repair records. I don't know when I last had my EGR valve replaced at the Ford dealership but it was probably 50,000 miles ago.

Oh, yes: how do you get part numbers for the parts you need so you can buy them online at FordParts.com? And would you go with the OEM EGR valve?

Thanks to everyone who reads this and special thanks to you who share your knowledge.

-Allan in WV

 

First try cleaning it. It will take some effort to get it out. I wouldn't use any chemicals in the intake, just a screwdriver to break up the carbon in the bottom and vacuum it out.

 

Me bring me and wanting to keep what money I can I would attempt to clean it first. It is wise to replace the o-rings when doing so. Yep bolts and some wiggle action and she will come out. There are spots to get leverage if it is stuck but be gentle. Try not to get any cleaner in the electrical side of the valve.
You have to be careful not to knock too much crud loose that you can't get out. You don't want a hard piece of carbon going where it should not.
What makes you think about the egr cooler being a problem? Are you loosing coolant? White smoke? Park it nose down if possible when you are ready to clean the egr valve. When you pull the valve look in and see if it is wet in the intake. Not the gooey carbon but wet like coolant sitting in there. Also while you are cleaning take the ait2 sensor out it is behind the fuel filter screwed straight down in the intake. Clean it as well. Then remove the map sensor hose inspect and clean out and the nipple on the intake that it goes into. If the cleaning doesn't work I would inspect wiring probably a good thing to do anyway. And replace the valve at that time if the problem persists.

 

Thanks for your replies.

Is there really a chance of breaking the ears off the EGR valve? Or "what do I have to be careful of?"

How do you folks pull the valve (Ford puller?) Do you use some chemicals in the cleaning process.

I'm new to this forum, as you can probably tell. I'm a farmer on top of that ;-) Is there already a write up on posted on the forum that would cover all the details of EGR removal and cleaning? If so, how would I find it.

SOrry for all the questions. Oh, no, I'm not seeing any problems with my EGR cooler.

If I have to replace the EGR valve, is going OEM the only way?

Thanks again

-Allan

 

I really doubt you'd break the ears off the valve. You probably won't even bend them.

Remove the EGR valve bolts, twist the valve and use a small pry bar between the ears of the valve and the intake manifold to pry up.

You can use carb cleaner on the bottom section of the valve, do not get any in the upper electronic part.

A new gasket kit is recommended. Typically OEM parts are the best for this motor.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...tructions.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...egr-valve.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post3352228

Here are a couple links in the tech folder regarding EGR valves.

 

Thanks for this information, Justin.

I see you're running an EGR delete.

My truck is in it's last days with 220,000 miles on it, I'd think, but should I look at deleting the EGR rather than replacing it? I'm in a non-emission testing state

Thanks again!

-Allan

 

Justin -

Thanks again. After the last post I saw the EGR Delete file you had posted. I'm still trying to digest it.

You mention 'twisting' the EGR to be able to get under the ears to pull it. I have to ask: how do you 'twist' it? I doubt it is loose once the bolts are out, and I also doubt I should take Channel Locks to it. How do you "twist" the EGR?

Thanks

-Allan

 

Once the bolts are out, grab it and twist it.

This is just me, but i've found that removing the alternator makes it a lot easier to pry out no matter what you use. I use a slim prybar that easily pops the EGR valve right off without issue.

As you've probably read, make sure to use carb cleaner and NOT brake cleaner.

 

You can twist it a little sideways and use wire and prybar to pop it out:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7746887

I just grapped it and twisted until is lifted up a 1/16" or so, then stuck a tiny 90* pry bar under the ears and popped it out:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-7-...g&gclsrc=aw.ds

Heck no it's not. Even if it needs some work, that's got to be cheaper than anything newer, especially newer diesels. Lot's of people in the 300+ thousand range.

 

You're just getting started!

As long as you properly maintain your truck it will last practically forever. My 7.3 Excursion was purchased new August 27th, 2001 with 50 miles and today it now has 414,000 miles.

I got my 6.0 Excursion with 123,870 miles on the clock October 2013, it now has 190,070 miles and still runs awesome!

 

I just cleaned my EGR valve today for the first time. Many have suggested that after removing the bolts, to give her a bit of a twist to separate the ears from the mount then pry up on the ears. As I am not a fan of prying on anything if I can help it, I took the strap that I have for removing my RV batteries from their battery box and used it to lift the EGR valve out. This is a link to the strap I used -->

 

I just pulled and cleaned mine a couple of days ago, probably for the 5th or 6th time. During the first 75000 miles on this motor I don't think it was ever done. I use a long, flat blade screwdriver to twist-pry against the ears once the 2 bolts are out (in order to turn the EGR valve), then loop bailing wire through both holes, making a loop over the top to pry up against. I believe this is probably the method described in texastech diesel's first link above.... that's probably where I got the idea. I actually used brake parts spray cleaner to clean mine, so I guess I'm a little behind the times... Whoops! I will use carb cleaner next time. Also, I believe the ford gasket kit you need to put it back in is ford part number 3C3Z-9P455-AB. I just paid $6.64 for it from Autonation Ford White Bear lake. AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake | Parts & Accessories
I clean my EGR about every 10,000 -12,000 miles and it really only takes 10 or 15 minutes to get it clean. Good luck!

Mike