Need some help on my F100 horn
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 781
Likes: 8
From: Sanford, NC
Need some help on my F100 horn
I finally replaced the turn signal swich on my 1981 F100 this week and all
went well until I tested the horn. I used a Motorcraft switch that looked
basically the same as the original and it was installed using the steps in
the shop manual. When I got everything back together and reconnected
the battery to test every thing the turn signals worked properly and it all
looked good until I test the horn. The fuse for the horn blew instantly
so something is wrong. I removed the steering wheel and inspected
everything I could and reinstalled it and put in a new fuse and tested
again and it blew again. After the third try by reversing the horn wire
hookup wires on the horn bar and trying again it blew a third fuse.
Do any of you guys have any knowledge of what the problem might be
or what I am doing wrong. Any help would be appreciated. I also replaced
the flasher as both the flasher and the switch were original
to the truck.
went well until I tested the horn. I used a Motorcraft switch that looked
basically the same as the original and it was installed using the steps in
the shop manual. When I got everything back together and reconnected
the battery to test every thing the turn signals worked properly and it all
looked good until I test the horn. The fuse for the horn blew instantly
so something is wrong. I removed the steering wheel and inspected
everything I could and reinstalled it and put in a new fuse and tested
again and it blew again. After the third try by reversing the horn wire
hookup wires on the horn bar and trying again it blew a third fuse.
Do any of you guys have any knowledge of what the problem might be
or what I am doing wrong. Any help would be appreciated. I also replaced
the flasher as both the flasher and the switch were original
to the truck.
Last edited by ctubutis; Nov 10, 2010 at 08:09 PM. Reason: Fix line breaks.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,948
Likes: 2,717
From: Virginia
I would leave the steering wheel off, make sure the wires are not touching, and then replace the fuse. See if the fuse blows when touching the wires together.
If your truck is like others I have seen, if you don't have cruise control, they ran the horn wires directly up to the steering wheel, and back out with no relay. If you have cruise, they did use a relay, and the horn wire at the steering wheel grounds to blow the horn.
If your truck is like others I have seen, if you don't have cruise control, they ran the horn wires directly up to the steering wheel, and back out with no relay. If you have cruise, they did use a relay, and the horn wire at the steering wheel grounds to blow the horn.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 781
Likes: 8
From: Sanford, NC
I don't have cruise, should have mention that. The fuse doesn't blow until I push the
horn bar. If I don't do that the fuse is fine. The two wires on the horn bar hookup to
two terminals that are on the steering wheel.
horn bar. If I don't do that the fuse is fine. The two wires on the horn bar hookup to
two terminals that are on the steering wheel.
New User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
I also have an 81 f100 and had to remove the wteering whel recently. I would try what was suggested above. Take it apart and put new fuse in. Touch two wires for horn together and see if same problem occurs. On mine there were 3 pins with springs. Dummy me forgot to put one of this pins back in and now no horn. Working on that this weekend.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 781
Likes: 8
From: Sanford, NC
Update, I pulled the wheel and inspected everything again and can not discern anything
is not assembled right. I tested the horn itself by disconnecting the power hookup and
ran a jumper to the positive battery terminal and the horn sounded. I also with a new
fuse installed tested the cigar lighter which worked normally. Reinstalled the steering
wheel and used a meter and was getting 12 volts at the horn positive terminal. Used a
short jump wire and connected the two horn terminals and the fuse blew instantly. It
seems the problem is somewhere in the new turn signal switch or in how the steering
wheel fits to the spring loaded horn connectors on the switch. Any ideas?
is not assembled right. I tested the horn itself by disconnecting the power hookup and
ran a jumper to the positive battery terminal and the horn sounded. I also with a new
fuse installed tested the cigar lighter which worked normally. Reinstalled the steering
wheel and used a meter and was getting 12 volts at the horn positive terminal. Used a
short jump wire and connected the two horn terminals and the fuse blew instantly. It
seems the problem is somewhere in the new turn signal switch or in how the steering
wheel fits to the spring loaded horn connectors on the switch. Any ideas?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
I would say the new switch is defective, or you put in one of the wires wrong down at the column connector. Double check it.
ALSO: Did you put the correct Turn signal switch into it?
1980-1983
1984
1985-1986
If you didn't match these years exactly you may have problems with that too.
ALSO: Did you put the correct Turn signal switch into it?
1980-1983
1984
1985-1986
If you didn't match these years exactly you may have problems with that too.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 783
From: Simi Valley, CA
1980/83 - Two different turn signal switches:
E1HZ13341HA (replaced E1HZ13341K & E0TZ13341A) .. Turn Signal Switch / Use with A/T or M/T / Use without Tilt Wheel / Available from Ford.
Fits 1980/83: F100/350, Econoline & Bronco / MSRP: $87.00 // FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept. sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $62.64.
Note: This E1HZ switch is a FoMoCo service part replacement for the original E0TZ13341A switch, comes with a "how to" instruction sheet.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E1TZ13341D .. Turn Signal Switch / Use with Tilt Wheel / Obsolete
Fits 1980/83: F100/350 & Bronco / 1980/83 Econoline w/a M/T / Even though obsolete, dozens are still available from Ford Dealers, obsolete parts vendors.
Now...the question is...does the truck have a tilt wheel...or not? Some people are unaware their trucks have this feature, because the tilt wheel is operated by the turn signal handle.
Press it forward = BOING!
E1HZ13341HA (replaced E1HZ13341K & E0TZ13341A) .. Turn Signal Switch / Use with A/T or M/T / Use without Tilt Wheel / Available from Ford.
Fits 1980/83: F100/350, Econoline & Bronco / MSRP: $87.00 // FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept. sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $62.64.
Note: This E1HZ switch is a FoMoCo service part replacement for the original E0TZ13341A switch, comes with a "how to" instruction sheet.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
E1TZ13341D .. Turn Signal Switch / Use with Tilt Wheel / Obsolete
Fits 1980/83: F100/350 & Bronco / 1980/83 Econoline w/a M/T / Even though obsolete, dozens are still available from Ford Dealers, obsolete parts vendors.
Now...the question is...does the truck have a tilt wheel...or not? Some people are unaware their trucks have this feature, because the tilt wheel is operated by the turn signal handle.
Press it forward = BOING!
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 781
Likes: 8
From: Sanford, NC
Thanks for the responsives guys. I will check the the part number for the switch I got
and report back. Thanks again.
and report back. Thanks again.
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Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Old Hickory, the numbers you see on parts are ENGINEERING numbers, NOT part
numbers. NumberDummy is giving you part numbers, and they're likely not going to match
up to the number you see on the part itself (but should match up on the packaging).
numbers. NumberDummy is giving you part numbers, and they're likely not going to match
up to the number you see on the part itself (but should match up on the packaging).
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 783
From: Simi Valley, CA
Look for this tag, post the ID number from the new and the original switch.
Post the part number that's listed on the box.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 781
Likes: 8
From: Sanford, NC
The Motorcraft switch I used is PN E1HZ-14441-HA. I ordered it from Titus-Will Ford's
online parts sales for $62.59. I think I have a direct short somewhere, maybe in the
switch itself or some wire is pinched. I will pull the switch back out and resubsitute the
old switch which worked OK except for the cancelling cam on the left side. I'll let you
guys know what I find. Thanks.
online parts sales for $62.59. I think I have a direct short somewhere, maybe in the
switch itself or some wire is pinched. I will pull the switch back out and resubsitute the
old switch which worked OK except for the cancelling cam on the left side. I'll let you
guys know what I find. Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
They make an aftermarket replacement turn signal cancel cam for these switches. made by motormite, in the HELP! section. That may be an option if the old one is still functional.
Some people have success with that, others dont... etc...
Some people have success with that, others dont... etc...
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 783
From: Simi Valley, CA
btw: FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor: PARTSGUYED.COM (Ed @ Horizon Ford in Seattle WA)
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 781
Likes: 8
From: Sanford, NC
OK, I fixed the problem. I took 81-F-150-Explorer's advice and got a replacement cam
to install on the old switch. It was exactly like the original cam and changing it over
was not too bad. I pulled the new switch and reinstalled the old one with the new cam.
It solved the problem with the horn fuse blowing and the horn blows like it should and the
turn signals work like they should. Wish I had done this in the first place. The new
switch upon examination revealed a pinched wire which was one of the horn wires. This
apparently caused the short. The wires on the new switch were slightly different from
the original and when I installed it that probably cause the problem with the horn. I will
keep the new switch which I can repair for a backup. Thanks to all who responded to
the post and offered help and advice.
to install on the old switch. It was exactly like the original cam and changing it over
was not too bad. I pulled the new switch and reinstalled the old one with the new cam.
It solved the problem with the horn fuse blowing and the horn blows like it should and the
turn signals work like they should. Wish I had done this in the first place. The new
switch upon examination revealed a pinched wire which was one of the horn wires. This
apparently caused the short. The wires on the new switch were slightly different from
the original and when I installed it that probably cause the problem with the horn. I will
keep the new switch which I can repair for a backup. Thanks to all who responded to
the post and offered help and advice.
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