When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'd do the 2 main hoops in 2" DOM and the rest in 1.75.
I'll admit you see a lot of 1.5 out there but there's not that much difference in cost, your not building a whole frame.
The class 6 just finished and the Trophy Truck finished a little while ago.
Long race, plenty of 'issues' for a lot of the teams.
Congrats to the Red Bull Vilodosa team for 1) the overall 2) the TT win and 3) the first Mexican national team to overall the Baja 1000! Class outfit.
Found my set of fenders and bed sides, McNeil racing ( perrys fab&fiber), 6"front fenders for 300 and 4"bedsides for 600. Does any one know any thing about this company I have no idea, are the bed sides worth that?
Prices are about right. Expect to put some time into cleaning the glass up to fit properly with Perry's stuff. That's almost typical with any glass now though.
Originally Posted by dirtdobberoffroad
Oh yeah and Chase I joined dezertrangers... if you are on there.
I'm on there. Screen name there is "JusSumGuoy" - had a bit of a war of words with the guys who run that site years ago since they blindly push Camburg products and I was pretty anti Camburg at the time. I was pretty much blocked from the site so I had to create a different screen name and create it from my bother's IP address using my work email since all others were blocked
Read a bit there and take everything you read with a grain of salt. Also notice guys can be total dicks to newbies - or anyone in general. It's just what it is there. I'm on there mainly for the classifieds.
Originally Posted by dirtdobberoffroad
what size tube do you use for interior cage 1.75?
Depends on the truck. Ranger is 1.75" mainly with a bit of 1.5", supercab will be mainly 2" with 1.75" and 1.5" in certain areas. Both are DOM. SCORE has a new rule on tube size for trucks weighing a certain amount and tube size is dictated by weight. In all honesty 1.75" for the entire thing would be fine for you. 2" is overkill for most and 1.75" can still save your life in a wreck.
Originally Posted by rickf92592
I'd do the 2 main hoops in 2" DOM and the rest in 1.75.
I'll admit you see a lot of 1.5 out there but there's not that much difference in cost, your not building a whole frame.
The class 6 just finished and the Trophy Truck finished a little while ago.
Long race, plenty of 'issues' for a lot of the teams.
Congrats to the Red Bull Vilodosa team for 1) the overall 2) the TT win and 3) the first Mexican national team to overall the Baja 1000! Class outfit.
I agree and disagree a bit on the tube size. If you've got the $$ 2" main hoops and 1.75" remainder is good. Overkill for many though.
What truck are you with Rick?
And here's a couple pics just because I LOVE Baja. Interesting trip this time (tranny failure, speeding tickets, flat towing INTO baja instead of out, etc.) but it was a good time!
yeah I think most of out stock cars run 1.75 tubing and I dont plan on rolling....LOL.... I know thats when it happens......one question I've been looking at pictures and I see the saftey tubes tied into the bed cage, How do they seal aroudn the tubes coming into the cab with the flex of the cab I dont see how any thing would hold, In SEMO the weather changes almost as much as Florida but we get snow and cold and if I did that I would like to seal the cab off as much as possble.
And as far as the DR forum Im just looking and wishing no interaction yet.
Sealing the cab depends on how you do the cage. If you bushing mount the cage and don't tie it to the frame solidly (by wleding it direct or via lap plates) then you can bushing mount the connection or I've seen people use rubber type "gaskets" they made. There used to be a company that sold these gaskets but I think they went out of business.
Now if you solidly tie the cage to the frame and make everything rigid mounted like many do you just cut a hole in the body, slide the tube through and weld the body to the tube. Use silicone bronze welding rod if you do this as it allows for the slight flex that will still be there to happen without cracking the welds.
If you do a search on DR for cage gaskets or something similar you should find a bit of info and a decent amount of pics on this topic.
The futher out towards the wheel you put the shock the more lateral stability you have at speed and the more control the shock has over the axle/beam with less valving. Think of the axle of beam as a lover arm. Like with a breaker bar when you are trying to get a stuck nut off - the longer the arm the more leaverage acting on the thing.
So yeah - mounting the shocks outboard of the frame is a good way to go - especially if you will be building a bedcage. And for the record - toyotas have wider frames so the shocks are usually mounted inboard of the frame - but as close to the frame as possible. It's pretty tough to fit a shock outboard of the toyota frames unless you go to a wider than stock axle.
well the reason why I said the taco was cruising down the interstate yesterday and saw a F150 and I thought (how many other trucks have the shock out board) so I started looking and those where the two that I could really see the shock on the out side of the frame...
OK for my next question on a leaf spring truck is there any certain way to mount the shocks Ive seen them both in front of the axle Ive seen them strait up'n down with the axle and Ive seen them tilted to the rear. the way the axle swings on the shackles the shocks to the rear looks like that would work the best but Im a NUBE.
The angle of the shock will effect how you valve it. More lean of the shock will possibly allow you to get more travel out of a shorter shock, but it will make the shock work a bit harder so you'll have to up the valving. This in turn makes the shocks run hotter.
For your F-150 - if you are wanting a bedcage and shocks going into the bed - make shock mounts off the spring plates on top of the axle. Lots of pics of this on DR.
Oh - and the new tacomas may have the shocks outboard of the frame. I know the older ones were inboard though. I'm pretty positive my '99 tacoma is that way.
Thanks chase your talking about a plate that bolts ontop of the ubolt plate that will have a double sheer mount correct? So wich ever way I want to lean them is fine?
Yes the plate that bolts on top of the u-bolt. Should be lots of pics of these on DR.
Shock mounts can go anywhere, but be prepared to valve them for how much lean you've got into them. Aside from desert guys, no one really gets into shock placement and valving. they just throw on some ranchos in whatever for them can fit them on the truck and call it good. We are a bit more sophisticated then that.
In SEMO the weather changes almost as much as Florida but we get snow and cold and if I did that I would like to seal the cab off as much as possble.
What part of SEMO do you live in? I grew up in the southern part of the Bootheel, Kennett, Senath area. But that was back in the 70's. Moved to Springfield in 79. I do miss rat racing on the gravel roads though. I used to drive a 1970 1/2 ton 2x4 that I swapped out the springs for 3/4 ton ones. It would jump pretty good. All my buddies used to call my truck the Ditch B***ch.