For bumps I will be running Fox hydraulic ones, but that's only because I got 4 of them for the price of 2 used ones...

Read this and save yourself some $$
http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=105

The single swing steering is a custom built swing set type steering. Single swing is used on trucks with un-equal length beams whereas a typicle swing set or dual swinger setup is used on equal length beam trucks. Some decent reading on this can be found at www.race-dezert.com and www.dezertrangers.com


Good point. I find myself being lazy about carrying a lot of that stuff usually and that is why I am building custom storage boxes on the new truck that will house all of that. I will have setups in both the crew cab and the supercab. As for air - crew will have on board air and supercab will have a CO2 bottle.

 

as far as all that extra stuff crammed in the truck I wont ever be near as isolated as you guys in the desert.... I am always within 40 miles of a town. but yes those are some have to have items on a race/chase truck.

I looked a the steering systems and I think the ford y style would do almost as good wouldn't it? Remember this thing is gonna be a weekend warrior and a daily driver I guess I should have mentioned that at the beginning. Missouri is not very strict on inspections so pretty much every thing will pass and get licensed so I don't have to worry about that.

 

"All of that extra stuff" will fit in a 18X18X24 container and 40 miles (especially off road) can be a long time for a tow truck or worse, an ambulance. At least do the GOOD first aid kit. Just sayin.................

Oh, and don't forget a tube or JB Weld Quik-steel!

 

LOL..... I will have have to items first aid , fire ext., plug kit, etc....

Ive been looking at long travel rear susp. and I cant find a pic of ther rear shackle to se how long they are running, would a two inch lowering shackle be long enough for good travel in the rear?

Oh and the bump stops are exactly what I was thinking! Thanks chase...

 

For the shackle - it depends on who you talk to. Many run a 7.5" eye to eye shackle like I am running. Some say the 6" eye to eye. Shackle length will determine ride height if you keep the factory hanger style (shackle pointing up).

Keep in mind with the longer shackle you may have to clearance your bed = cut holes in it because the shackles will hit the under side.


my shackles

 

I like the look of that schackle. I might borrow the desing.

Is 7" just a made up length or is there any science to it?

Did you tilt the spring hanger for more travel or did you move it back for longer springs?

 

7.5" CL to CL. It's what guys use on ranger and F-150's. To be honest I don't know why that is the length but it seems to work - especially with the 4" leafs from Deaver. I'm sure someone was playing with cycling the spings and stock hanger location a while back and figured out the eye to eye length on the shackle.

As for my hangers - both. The hangers are moved because those springs are a 64" spring rather than the stock 57". I also titled the hanger forward a bit to get more droop travel out of the things. If you look closely at the bottom pic you can see a yellow mark on the hanger itself - under the shackle. This is an area I will look at clearancing to I can get an inch or 2 more droop travel out of the things.

 

just a question not even thinking of it......yet..... what would it take to put 37's on it and is there any benifit?

 

a lot of beefing up and slightly higher ground clearance is the only real benefit I see. Even then the 37's would be good out here for the 2 tracks, but for what you are doing stick with 35's. Your tie rods, etc. will thank you!

 

That is what I was thinking but I wasnt sure if the good would out way the bad.....

Now on fiber glass fenders and bedsides, are they just basicaly skin the old and reskin with the fiberglass ones or is it a unbolt and rebolt thing?

Who would be the best company to buy from glassworks, autofab,......?

 

bedsides are a skin and re-skin. Front fenders on your era F-150 can get a little tricky as the inner fender is what everything is bolted to and it's part of the outer fender. Some peolpe do a tubular structure and remove the inner fenders, but some people skin the outer fender and bolt the fiberglass onto the inner fender.

I welded up some reinforcements for a buddy who kept the stock inner fenders. Pics start on page 7 and go to page 10 or so
GoFastBroncos.com - View topic - Tonys 93 bronco

As for who to buy glass from - pic the style you like and go with it. Autofab's fenders usually fit really well and are well made, but they cost more. Glassworks has cool looks but Tim (the owner) can be a flake and hit and miss. Hanneman lays up some thick stuff and fitment is usually good, but some of their styles aren't the coolest looking. Fiberwerx nd Perry's Fab N Fiber have more big flare, louvers and crazy stuff but the fitment isn't as good as other stuff.

Search the classifieds at race-deZert.com and DezertRangers - Home for deals. Heck if you really want to learn about this stuf and build your truck this way start searching and reading those sites. You will see TONS of helpful pics and get more info than you can cram into your head!

Oh yeah - read this thread for fun. This thing is a bad arsed sleeper! Looks like a grandpa truck but the thing gets used and abused in Baja chasing and pitting. THe owner built it in the Autofab shop with the help of John and the guys. Owner is way cool and if all goes well I'll get a ride in the thing next week at the Baja 1k!
http://www.gofastbroncos.com/forum/v...php?f=19&t=864

 

Ive looked at those sites I just dont understand the lingo the desert guys use. I am learning tho...... A Hillbilly speaking dezert.....LOL..... but I under stand the pictures......

Has any one ever experimented witha 3/4 eliptical suspinsion you could get serious droop out of it, but you would deffinatly need sway bars, cage, 5 point harnesses and did I mention a cage.....

 

yup - quarter-liptical's were big on many trucks in the late 80's. Still seen on some class 3 tryp broncos, etc.

 

Copy that, they make for some pretty spectacular failures.
There are a lot of wierd forces going through the chassis when you do these. You don't need the grief. Decide on how much travel you want and build like everyone else is building now, there's a reason people are all building pretty much the same....it works. I think some Deavers with some long shackles and some GOOD shocks will amaze you.

Bummed I'm missing the 1000.
(Happy to be alive tho)


p.s. We'll work on a Flatbiller to Hillbilly Dictionary, should be fun.
Hell, half the time I don't know what the kids on the team are talking about.

 

LOL.....if you can get one to Hickbonics that would be the best....