When I remove my engine...
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When I remove my engine...
When I take my 351W motor out of my 92 F150 with E4OD, what can I expect at the torque converter? Will it be difficult to remove from that connection? Do I need to drain the transmission fluid?
Going to start working on this and trying to ask the questions I don't know anything about.
Thanks.
Going to start working on this and trying to ask the questions I don't know anything about.
Thanks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,670
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From: Sand Lake, MI
Remove the nuts holding the torque converter to the flex plate, 4 of them. Do so by rotating the motor around by hand removing them one at a time via the starter hole. (starter removed).
Leave the TC in the trans when you remove the motor, once the motor is out remove the tc and replace front trans seals, reinstall tc into trans. You gotta make sure the TC is fully seated into the trans before installing the motor, if you do not know how or do so but are not sure if its in, ask someone that knows for help.
The converter will "drop in" in three distinct steps while held true to the trans body and rotated while pushing it in, when fully seated the hub will be ¼" below the matting surface as measured off the bell housing face via a straight edge.
Whatever you do don't just assume its still all the way in because for example, you never took it out. When pulling the motor even without intending to will likely pull it part way out despite best efforts to prevent doing so.
You do not need to drain the fluid first if you do not wish to, it will not leak all over the ground if you leave it full.
Leave the TC in the trans when you remove the motor, once the motor is out remove the tc and replace front trans seals, reinstall tc into trans. You gotta make sure the TC is fully seated into the trans before installing the motor, if you do not know how or do so but are not sure if its in, ask someone that knows for help.
The converter will "drop in" in three distinct steps while held true to the trans body and rotated while pushing it in, when fully seated the hub will be ¼" below the matting surface as measured off the bell housing face via a straight edge.
Whatever you do don't just assume its still all the way in because for example, you never took it out. When pulling the motor even without intending to will likely pull it part way out despite best efforts to prevent doing so.
You do not need to drain the fluid first if you do not wish to, it will not leak all over the ground if you leave it full.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
That's very good advice right there, I didn't do that when I swapped in the 5.0 last summer and guess what's leaking like a somnabiatch right now on my truck!!
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 333
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From: Lawton, OK
Also loosen up the trans mount. When you reinstall the engine, the trans will "bump" back enough to allow the engine to set into it's mounts without the TC studs pushing against the flywheel, allowing you to rotate it around without boogering the threads. And make SURE you use the correct size socket on those nuts. They like to round off easily.
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does this engine have a knock sensor? I am going to buy timing gears as opposed to a timing chain and it says that the gears should not be used on an engine with a knock sensor.
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FTE Legend
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2010
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From: Lawton, OK
In regards to gears as opposed to timing chain, there is some parasitic drag from the gears. I know, I know, it may not seem to make sense, but it's true. I was going to use a gear set on my Mustang road racer, but it was discussed at great length and stated by the current 4-time SCCA American Sedan National Champion, Andy McDermid, and his engine builders, Felice Brothers Racing Engines in Michigan, that gears have a parasitic drag on the engine. Don't ask me why...I don't build race engines for a living. But if a national champion and his engine builders say something isn't as good as it seems, the information validates itself.
Now...I find the $700 timing belt setup for the small block Fords is just flat out sexy. Just putting that out there.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Graniteville
The parasitic drag occurs due to the excess running weight of the drive (crank gear, idlers, cam gear) which all take power to turn, along with the (albeit slight) drag of the spinning idler gears. On a chain drive, the only parasitic drag occurs where the chain is running on the gears. The advantage of a chain is ease of installation and they are quiet. The advantage of a gear drive is dead on cam timing since there is no chain stretch.
While on a full tilt race motor, the power loss is less than the power gain from the timing being dead on, on a street motor, the advantages are basically nil. Also with the increases in quality of the gears and chain, these days a gear drive is about worthless on a street motor, as the chains/gears last longer and stretch less compared to the setups from years ago. Unless you are planning on building a motor thats going to running on the razors edge, or you just want to be able to say its a gear drive and hear the gear "whine", go with a good high quality chain drive (Comp, Crane, etc) and use the money saved over the gear setup to invest in some other performance goodies.
While on a full tilt race motor, the power loss is less than the power gain from the timing being dead on, on a street motor, the advantages are basically nil. Also with the increases in quality of the gears and chain, these days a gear drive is about worthless on a street motor, as the chains/gears last longer and stretch less compared to the setups from years ago. Unless you are planning on building a motor thats going to running on the razors edge, or you just want to be able to say its a gear drive and hear the gear "whine", go with a good high quality chain drive (Comp, Crane, etc) and use the money saved over the gear setup to invest in some other performance goodies.
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