OKAY... I'm tired so please bare with me.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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About 3 weeks ago I noticed some fluid in my driveway under my truck upon further inspection I determined it to be power steering fluid. Well I thought maybe that the low pressure hose might need to be replaced... so I replaced it and all was good until the other day when more fluid was on the ground and now the pump is almost completely dry. I filled it up again with some tranny fluid... once again to find it dry. I heard from some friends that putting a tiny amount of brake fluid can help cause seals to tighten up so I did that and it did nothing. There quite a big puddle on the ground fairly quickly and it has been running out while I’m driving...<o></o>
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Could it be leaking from the gearbox? Maybe the high pressure hoses? Or somewhere else?<o></o>
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My engine is pretty greasy in general so it's hard to see where there's an excess amount of liquid on the frame or something. If I have to change the gear box how much will that cost? I don't think that's something I can do out of my driveway too...<o></o>
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ANY help would be great!<o></o>
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THANK YOU.<o></o>

 

I just put a rebuilt gearbox in mine - was leaking like crazy from the bottom shaft seal. IIRC, it was around $130-140 from O'Reilly's, w/ a $20 core charge. It's a pretty heavy cast iron unit - I'd advise having a second person to help if you need to change yours.

 

If the pump was ran dry, it can take some effort and patience to refill it and bleed all the air out.

Top off the pump, start the engine and turn the wheels lock to lock several times. Recheck fluid, top it off if needed and repeat. It can easily take several times to bleed all the air out. In the meantime it WILL continue puking the fluid out until the air is gone.

Josh

 

I had a similar issue on my '79 a couple years ago, and the pump reservoir was actually cracked. A remanufactured pump was really cheap after the core refund. Not 6 months later, the steering box started leaking worse and worse and I had to replace that too. That was a difficult job because of how heavy the unit is, and its location makes it difficult to move something that heavy in and out. It also takes an incredible amount of torque to tighten the pitman arm nut.

First I'd follow Josh's advice because it could be leaking because there is air in the system. If there is air in the power steering, the power steering fluid will gush out and look like a 7-Eleven slurpee. Ford systems are notorious for being noisy and difficult to purge. You might also consider degreasing your engine bay and trying to pinpoint the leak specifically.

 

I wanted to add how difficult it is about purging the air.

The o-ring seal and front seal on my pump went out, which required pulling and dissasembling the pump. Reinstalled the pump, bled the air the best I could, drove the truck around town and everything was gravy. Went out later and saw my truck puked all over the driveway. %&$^$#*!!!

Same procedure, everything again gravy, driving home from the store I totally lose power steering. The stupid thing puked while driving.

But after refilling and turning the wheels lock to lock countless times I didn't encounter any more problems.

Josh

 

Thanks Guys I'll try all that out. Give an update later.

If I do have to replace the gearbox am I going to need special tools or something?

 

I just finished redoing my whole steering system recently, the low pressure (return) line was warn through from contact with something, then the pump housing was pretty much completely detached from the internal metal part, then the seals on the box went.

First of all, it is my hunch, from your description, that you are having a pump housing problem. The box most likely wouldn't just p!ss fluid like that so suddenly. After doing mine, my general impression is that the housings just don't age well. Mine was warped and kind of expanded. To quickly check the pump, just go through a few rags, and dry out the housing as much as you can. Scrape off as much grime as possible obviously, but get the shine off most importantly. Then start the truck and spin your wheel a few times. If there's fluid coming out of the neck area, then it's air in the system, causing it to puke, as has been mentioned, if the pump is just generally soaked (but likely not on the neck), then the housing is bad, and the pump will have to be removed from the truck, and at least cleaned inspected and sealed.

If the pump stays dry after you dry and run it, then it's the box or lines obviously. The box seals can be replaced without disassembling the box, and only cost like 5$, but it is almost impossible to do without puting the box on a workbench.

The pitman arm is roouugh to get off. I couldn't find a wide enough and sturdy enough puller to get it off, so I made one, and still in the end just beat it with a sledge hammer.

Your steering system is something you can do totally at home with some detailed research, alot of care, and a big breaker bar for that pitman nut, but for the cost of replacing the pump (45-75$), and the box if need be (150$), you may not want to risk it/bother.

Let us know how it turns out though, AleX

 

No special tools to remove the box aside from everything I described above for pulling the pitman arm. And if you're digging iinto the box, some snap ring pliers are the only special thing.

 

X2 to R&R the gearbox is fairly straightforward, it's the pitman arm nut that can get ya if you don't have a nice 1/2" or 3/4" impact gun or 6 foot cheater pipe.

Then the matter of getting it off. Not too terribly difficult with heat and a decent puller.

Josh

 

My pitman arm came off fairly easily; I used a cheap puller from O'Reilly's. A word on the nut, though - it's a really strange size (at least on mine). According to NumberDummy it's actually 1-19/64", but I've known guys to do it with other standard sizes. It might be different between years or models. Here's the thread where I got that information: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...olt-sizes.html

If you have to change out the box, take your time and be careful. I'd take bkaul's advice and have a friend help. Use good judgement - if it falls, you do NOT want to be underneath. But based on your description, I agree that it doesn't sound like the box. When mine started leaking, it started as a slow leak that got worse and worse gradually over a few months. By the time I replaced it, I was probably putting in a quart a week. I managed to make the street pretty nasty.

 

Actually, just thinking of this, but there are some big differences between 2WD and 4WD systems (I believe the box is mounted on the inside of the frame rail on 2WD?). I've only been into 4WD stuff, so I'm not sure how different 2WD is, but just a word of caution if you have a 2.

 

Interesting reading the link that 32mm socket fit when 1 19/64 is in relative terms 3 sizes bigger.

I just tried a 32mm and it was way too small, which is only .009" bigger than 1 1/4" socket.

1 5/16th was loose, but not something to cry about.

A 33mm socket was tighter, I don't have anything between 1 1/4 and 1 5/16 in SAE.

Josh

 

The Ford integral P/S gearbox is notorious for leaking at the sector shaft due to the built in flaw all these gearboxes had.

Go to redheadsteeringgears.com and read how they fix the damn thing.

The so called "rebuilt gearboxes" sold by autoparts stores are nothing more than re-sealed gearboxes.

Since only the input & sector shaft seal kits are available (the spool valve and etc are long obsolete), it won't be long before the damn thing begins leaking.

In 1978, Ford changed the P/S pump on everything except Econolines. This new pump has a plastic reservoir. 1977 and earlier pumps have a steel reservoir.

The P/S pressure hoses used with the 1978 and later pump attach using qwik-disconnect fittings. The P/S pressure hose has an O-ring on its straight (pump) end that hardens up, then the hose starts leaking.

 

My gear box was leaking very bad I mean it was a fountain coming out the input shaft seal. Changed the seal and all good. No leaking! I have a 79 F350 2WD and taking out the gear box was not hard. Its heavy but there is plenty of room to get both hands on the unit to get it down safe.