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Im kinda new to the forum i just had a big question in having some problems with my starter that it hadn't been doing before..........it makes a noise like if the motor its too hard for the starter too turn it over is it that i need shims ......or might it be something else......cause i haven't heard of shims on a ford starter.....thanks for your help
Have you got a good fully charged battery ? Most ford starters I have had seem to pull a lot of power. If you have a small puny battery made for a G M vehical, it just may be to small.
THIS IS ACTUALLY THE SECOND RED TOP OPTIMA BATTERY THAT I GET ...............I ALREADY INSTALLED A NEW FLYWHEEL AND A BRAND NEW STARTER......AT THE BEGINNING WHEN I FIRST GOT THE STARTER IT WAS FINE NO NOISE BUT NOW ITS BEEN LIKE 3MNTHS AND IT STARTED DOING IT AGAIN
Do you have the correct starter ? Standard transmissions use a different starter than an automatic transmission. The gear end on the standard starter is a little shorter than the one for a automatic. I tried to get by using a short one on a c/4, part of the time it would start, other times it would not engage enough to start. So if you are using one for a automatic on a standard, it may be trying to jam up. Thats all I can think of to have you check . Good luck, JIM
YES JIM I HAVE CHECKED AND ITS AN AUTOMATIC C-6 BUT IT ONLY DOES IT EVERY NOW AND THEN IS NOT OFTEN DAT IT DOES IT, BUT WHEN IT DOES IT SOUNDS LIKE THE ENGINE ITS TO HEAVY FOR THE STARTER TO TURN IT OVER. THEY HAD ASKED ME IF IT WAS A HIGH COMPRESSION ENGINE THAT IT MIGHT HAD TO DO WITH IT BUT ITS ONLY A CAMMED 351W N THAT'S IT
79Ford-Dent, Do you have headers??????? My Fe 390 does fine for 3 or 4 months then starter starts doing the exact same thing as you described in your situation. My situation is the heat from my headers causes premature failure of the starter, even with header wrap and a starter heat shield. If you don't have headers it most likley you have an automatic starter.
If the starter checks out and you have a good batt with a good charge, check cables. If you have skimpy off the shelf cables (even if they're new) replace them with some 2 gauge cables. Especially the long run from solenoid to starter. If this happens more often when the truck is hot, I'd put money on that being the issue. Heat creates resistance which creates more heat. This is a cheap upgrade and the new cables will last forever. If you have headers, you might also consider building a heat shield for the starter. A cut open coffee can will do the job on the cheap but it doesn't take much to build a nice one out of some flat sheet metal. If you can add a half inch to an inch of air space between the shield and the starter, this will make a big difference. If you are running higher compression you can also look at a gear reduction starter. For 351m,400 or 460 you can use a starter from a 97 f250 with a 460. I'm not familiar with the Windsor starter so I'm not sure if this would work for you or not.
@1976HIGH BOY I DON T HAVE HEADERS BUT I DO THINK THAT THE EXHAUST THAT I HAVE DOES RUN KINDA CLOSE TO THE STARTER THANKS FOR THE HELP N ILL GIVE IT A TRY TO TRY TOO KEEP AWAY HEAT FROM THE STARTER..............
@CATHODE THAT SOUNDS LIKE SOMETHING I WAS PLANNING IN DOING SINCE I HAVE A AN AUDIO SYSTEM AND SINCE I'M ALSO RUNNING AN AIR BAG SETUP I'M GOING TO UPGRADE TO 1 OR MAYBE 0 GAUGE ALL AROUND..THANKS FOR THE HELP I'M GONNA TRY THE STUFF EACH ONE YA'LL TOLD ME N SEE WHAT HAPPENS
YES JIM I HAVE CHECKED AND ITS AN AUTOMATIC C-6 BUT IT ONLY DOES IT EVERY NOW AND THEN IS NOT OFTEN DAT IT DOES IT, BUT WHEN IT DOES IT SOUNDS LIKE THE ENGINE ITS TO HEAVY FOR THE STARTER TO TURN IT OVER. THEY HAD ASKED ME IF IT WAS A HIGH COMPRESSION ENGINE THAT IT MIGHT HAD TO DO WITH IT BUT ITS ONLY A CAMMED 351W N THAT'S IT
I'm not clear on what you mean. Are you saying your truck has a C/6 transmission and the starter is for a C/6 ? The starter part number should be for a C/6 and like you have been told,heat can be a problem.
Hi guys ,having mesh issues with 351w C6 . think its got 164 tooth wheel from 302.sounds like a chevy starter on its last legg.looked in LMC cats to cross refrance and several to choose from for 351w for diffrant years need help. never encountered this with Fords before.was told at counter small blocks all the same....not buying it,Help please
it would seem that the starter dowl plate is responcable for the meshing of ring and bendix gears but the flexplate is from 289/302 late model,starter from C6 /300 i6,the dowel plate is alluminium(basket case)my 19 year old sons idea of puting one together.I'm thinking flexplate for windsor might be needed to solve problem?
Last edited by pale horse; Oct 27, 2010 at 12:09 PM.
Reason: second paragraph
Hi guys ,having mesh issues with 351w C6 . think its got 164 tooth wheel from 302.sounds like a chevy starter on its last legg.looked in LMC cats to cross refrance and several to choose from for 351w for diffrant years need help. never encountered this with Fords before.was told at counter small blocks all the same....not buying it,Help please
it would seem that the starter dowl plate is responcable for the meshing of ring and bendix gears but the flexplate is from 289/302 late model,starter from C6 /300 i6,the dowel plate is alluminium(basket case)my 19 year old sons idea of puting one together.I'm thinking flexplate for windsor might be needed to solve problem?
You may have been told incorrect about the small block. I have had a few 289s and 302s , standard and auto. shift. I checked at my shop and I have a standard use starter that is 2 in. from the mounting face to the end of the shaft. The one i have that is used on the c/4 is 2-1/4 in . The gear on the c/4 one is located out on the shaft to get it closer to the flex plate. I can see where you may be able to shim the c/4 use starter out to work on a standard flywheel but the standard use one will not allways work every time on a c/4. I have tried them both ways. Tooth count may make a difference too. I think you need the windsor flexplate for your problem. But i'm no expert, just know what I have came up against though the years and how I have solved them.
Thanks for your help Mr. Collins,read castings for block, it's a 70' series with D4AE prefix. that makes the engine a car moter from the 70s.Installed 78' 351 W/C6 flex plate AZ # FRA 201 which shows suttle diffrences with the AZ # FRA 231 (late model 302) the most appearant diffrance being the distance , or spacing from crank ( spicificly the ring gear is closer to starter) the tooth count is the same(164)but the teeth appear to be a little stubbyer or shorter with naked eye, anyway the 351W flexplate made big diffrance. The sound is more FORD like, and it engages, and disengages well,although not sounding FORD perfect. The next step is to replace the starter with a 351 W / C6 one and that should finish the project. For FUTURE refrance: Don't let teenage son identify engines on his own anymore! or at least make sure he buys the right parts for the job!!! I'd love to tell the story on how this all happened when he bought the truck and who he bought it from, not to mention what they told him it was, but thats for another place I'm sure. I know many people here would get a good laugh,Thanks again for your reply ..." if HENRY only knew"