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Old Feb 27, 2003 | 11:31 AM
  #16  
CO4x4SD's Avatar
CO4x4SD
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From: Denver USA
acetoned emblems

tankhead

The badges are stuck on with that 3M style tape, the rear has three posts but they do not attach to anything, they just poke through the tailgate and I assume the same goes for the fender. I used a heat gun to loosen the tape glue, then pulled off the rear badge. Destroyed it in the process but it was on there for 3+ yrs. I also removed a V10 badge that I had stuck on the tailgate, but since it was fresh it came off with just the heat and didn't get destroyed.

The first year front V10 badges are stickers, and pull off with heat. The newer style "chrome" V10 badge is held on by the tape only, no posts.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2003 | 12:31 PM
  #17  
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tankhead
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From: Roswell USA
acetoned emblems

I don't have a heat gun. I can get one but could I use anything else that would work? So really there's no cutting involved just getting the tape to pull off the truck?
 
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Old Feb 27, 2003 | 12:38 PM
  #18  
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Godzilla250v10
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From: Downingtown US
acetoned emblems

I used Q-tips when I did my badges.....I did them once and waited a week and went back and touched them up.....the first time I did the badges I could not get the XLT off.....when I went to touch up around the letters....the first time I touched the red it came off.....I think there is a sealant coat of sorts on the red letters....hope this helps....I also have my V10 badges done and the back badge.....took me 2hours for all 5 the first time i did it
 
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Old Feb 27, 2003 | 01:27 PM
  #19  
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CO4x4SD
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From: Denver USA
acetoned emblems

A heat gun is just a heavy duty hair dryer. They get much hotter and usually require a cool down before shutting off. Just use a hair dryer, it will take a tad longer but same result.

As I mentioned, I destroyed mine taking it off. If you were to be more patient and let the sticky glue melt more I bet you could get them off in one piece. If you didn't plan to re-use them they would be cool shop decor. And as Abendx reccomended, WD-40 works great to clean the residual glue stuck on the paint.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2003 | 02:36 PM
  #20  
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tankhead
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From: Roswell USA
acetoned emblems

Thanks everybody!
 
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Old Mar 4, 2003 | 06:11 PM
  #21  
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99sdpstd
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From: PA, USA #1
acetoned emblems

I know I read it in one of the acetone thread but I'll be darned if I can find it again.

Could anyone tell me if production date 6/98 is early or late 99. I want to know if I will be able to do my lables or not.

Thanks
 
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Old Mar 4, 2003 | 06:11 PM
  #22  
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99sdpstd
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From: PA, USA #1
acetoned emblems

I know I read it in one of the acetone thread but I'll be darned if I can find it again.

Could anyone tell me if production date 6/98 is early or late 99. I want to know if I will be able to do my lables or not.

Thanks
 
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Old Mar 5, 2003 | 11:29 AM
  #23  
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tankhead
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From: Roswell USA
acetoned emblems

I think the magical date that separates the 99 models is 3/1/99. But it might be dependent on which parts u are looking at. The 3/99 date relates more to the suspension. I'm not sure if it relates to the change in differential.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2003 | 11:32 AM
  #24  
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CO4x4SD
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From: Denver USA
acetoned emblems

My '99 has an 8/98 build date and the acetone worked on it's emblems fine. That is sure to confuse things.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2003 | 11:35 AM
  #25  
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99sdpstd
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From: PA, USA #1
acetoned emblems

Originally posted by CO4x4SD
My '99 has an 8/98 build date and the acetone worked on it's emblems fine. That is sure to confuse things.

Thanks I guess I'll just have to try it
 
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Old Mar 5, 2003 | 11:41 AM
  #26  
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tankhead
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From: Roswell USA
acetoned emblems

Why not. If it works great if not I think its a small investment for new ones.
 
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