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Well, I just finished changing out my fuel filters and they were definitely dirty. Here are some pictures of the old vs. new ones. I did notice that the frame rail filter was physically different. It fit in the bowl though and they are Motorcraft filters too. The P/N on the box was FD-4617. I think they are re-designed. Total filter change cost was $73.38. My truck still sounds like an old 6.0 diesel though so I am not sure why that is. My neighbor has the same truck only newer and you can barely hear it. I checked the oil and it is at the max end of the dipstick. Not sure if that is the culprit. I still have another 2000mi till its due for a change, so should I drain some oil out through the drain plug? Sorry for the winded post.
One of the problems these trucks have is they "make oil". That is they have enough diesel fuel blow by during the regens that the accumlated fuel causes the crankcase to become fuller. That. of course dilutes your oil and lowers it's ability to lube the motor parts. Fords recommendation is to check it with the short stick method. That is to pull the dip stick and clean it off then reinsert it only until the fat edge of plastic rests on the top of the dip stick tube. Then remove the dip stick and read it. If the oil level is above the top of the plastic fob you need to take some action. If it were me I would have ford check it. There are a number of possibilities including bad injectors leaking fuel. Other actions you may take would be to change the oil and start watching it very closely to see how bad the problem is. you could also consider sending an oil sample to a company that would read the oil for you and tell you to what extent it was diluted and by what. Most folks use Blackstone but there are others I'm sure. What I wouldn't do with the level of noise up and the oil level up is ignore it. Hope this helps you and good luck.
One of the problems these trucks have is they "make oil". That is they have enough diesel fuel blow by during the regens that the accumlated fuel causes the crankcase to become fuller. That. of course dilutes your oil and lowers it's ability to lube the motor parts. Fords recommendation is to check it with the short stick method. That is to pull the dip stick and clean it off then reinsert it only until the fat edge of plastic rests on the top of the dip stick tube. Then remove the dip stick and read it. If the oil level is above the top of the plastic fob you need to take some action. If it were me I would have ford check it. There are a number of possibilities including bad injectors leaking fuel. Other actions you may take would be to change the oil and start watching it very closely to see how bad the problem is. you could also consider sending an oil sample to a company that would read the oil for you and tell you to what extent it was diluted and by what. Most folks use Blackstone but there are others I'm sure. What I wouldn't do with the level of noise up and the oil level up is ignore it. Hope this helps you and good luck.
That makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the info. I just checked the oil with the short stick method like you mentioned and it is just below the fat edge so I take it that is good. I might just take the truck in to have them listen to her and give me an opinion on it. I think that I will also start using that oil sample method as well for a piece of mind. I will keep you posted. Thanks again.
Any opinions on conventional vs synthetic oil ? Trucks brand new so i figured my next oil change would be conventional, i know once you go synthetic you have to continously use it
I don't see the need for synthetic unless you are in a extreme cold.
At a 5K oil change interval conventional oil is just fine.
Also check your oil weekly, first thing in the morning when that motor is cold.
I just considered cause i ordered my spartan, but i think conventional oil works perfectly fine, i ran it in my old truck until i let my dad brought it to get the oil changed and he put synthetic in without asking. Then i was stuck using it. Yea i started making a check list to follow to cover all ends and odds with the truck !
Any opinions on conventional vs synthetic oil ? Trucks brand new so i figured my next oil change would be conventional, i know once you go synthetic you have to continously use it
Don't be suprised when your oil is still black a day after the oil change. Just one of the benifits of having regens.
Any opinions on conventional vs synthetic oil ? Trucks brand new so i figured my next oil change would be conventional, i know once you go synthetic you have to continously use it
Here is my opinion on the topic. I personally don't think running synthetic in our trucks is worth the price. Why? Because one of the main advantages of running the more expensive synthetic oil is being able to have longer intervals between changes. There isn't a chance I am going longer than 5K miles without changing my oil whether I am running conventional or synthetic. So if my oil is being changed at 5K regardless... then I am going to stick with the cheaper conventional oil. So vescosity breakdown is not an issue at such low mileage.
I would think the only real advantage of synthetic oil is its ability to be used in greater temperature variations. Where a conventional oil would be frozen, a synthetic can still pump. That is pretty important to people in extreme climates.
I would suggest synthetic to the most extreme truckers out there. Synthetics do better when the motor gets hot... real hot. Where the conventional oil would breakdown the synthetic would be fine.
So if you fall in to the 2 extreme categories... synthetic is definitely a good option... if not, synthetic is overkill and expesive.
Can someone post the part numbers for the filters?
Frame Rail Fuel Filter
Engine Bay fuel Filter
Engine Bay Oil Filter
Are there other filters I am missing?
The Engine and frame rail fuel filters are the same part number.
Motorcraft Fuel filter: FD-4617 (includes both filters, O-rings)
Motorcraft Oil Filter: FL-2016
Looking for some advice - new diesel owner - Norther Illinois - 2008 F250 SD 6.4 L Turbo 30K miles Purchased 2 months & 3 K miles ago - Since purchase - I've had to have the brakes taken apart & cleaned they were sticking- atributed to 60 days on lot &non-use
LAst week had to replace the radiator - seal failed - not a catostrophic failure just a leak - to date no help from Ford ($1,200) now It has strted blowing some white smoke -sit at a stop light for a while then accelerate with white smoke - Any ideas?
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