How?
Senior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 387
Likes: 1
From: Bald Knob AR
I used a come along to pull the axle forward enough to change the bushings on my F150 once. I saw a buddy change his by putting a block behind the front tire and backing the truck up a little. Not sure I would recommend that but it worked for him.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,227
Likes: 149
From: Higginsville, MO
by radius arms are you meaning the big metal beams the 4x4 shafts run through... i don't know if im thinking the right part but im gonna guess i am.... and the bushings are the ones under the motor mount crossmember and there's 2 of them.... i had the wheels and hubs off disconnected the shock and leaf springs and pulled the 4x4 shafts out unbolted the beams from the crossmember and used one hell of a pry bar and a hammer to push them out then a punch and hammer is required to remove the bushings.... it does sit a little better with the new bushings but i wouldn't go through the hassel unless you were gonna be replacing alot of the front end seals and stuff on your way in
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,627
Likes: 0
From: West Valley Utah
That is the same way my neighbor and I have changed the radius arm bushings in the past. The cheap Harbor Freight cable type will work but just barely. I'd recommend getting a good one that you can use for years afterward.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
From: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
On my 150 I put it on the hoist and use a 10" aluminum bar as a lever to push the axle forward. Usually have 2 people to do it.
Used various "persuasion" and "attitude adjustment" tools to get the old bushings out... including burning the damn thing with the torch.
Used various "persuasion" and "attitude adjustment" tools to get the old bushings out... including burning the damn thing with the torch.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Norfolk
I have changed them many times, and the quickest way I have found is the block behind the wheel method. I just did a set in my 83 F-150 4wd and this method always worked for me. You just need an assistant and be very careful not to get to carried away when backing up. Usually the hardest part is removing the retaing nut as to be careful not to ruin the threads, as these are always prone to lots of rust!
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 867
Likes: 3
From: North Bend
Boy that sounds like a lot easier than the way we did it...
An ex-mechanic helped me do it on my 88 and he took an air chisel to the rivets that hold the bracket to the frame. Makes a lot of noise for like 2 hours or so. It'd be faster to use a cut-off wheel on an electric tool, rather than air unless you have a monster tank.
But now if it ever needs to be done again you just unbolt it, no troubles.
Not that it will ever need it again in this lifetime...
-Joshua
An ex-mechanic helped me do it on my 88 and he took an air chisel to the rivets that hold the bracket to the frame. Makes a lot of noise for like 2 hours or so. It'd be faster to use a cut-off wheel on an electric tool, rather than air unless you have a monster tank.
But now if it ever needs to be done again you just unbolt it, no troubles.
Not that it will ever need it again in this lifetime...
-Joshua
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,322
Likes: 2
From: Dairy, OR
a 4" angle grinder beats an air chisel any day. Just make sure if you do happen to touch the frame with grinder... which you probably will... then it's a good idea to spray paint over it so the exposed metal doesn't rust.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 373
Likes: 1
I have replaced that rubber grommet on several trucks over the years I drilled the rivets out although the grinder sounds like it might be a better way I always used grade 8 bolts to put it back together (makes it a lot easer to replace next time the replacements never seam to last as long as the originals)
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