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Coolant change

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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 03:38 PM
  #1  
romod's Avatar
romod
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Coolant change

Could someone tell me the correct procedure for changing my old coolant,the link on here in technical info doesn't work anymore.I have a 2000 2.5 liter
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 03:49 PM
  #2  
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Danger_Dave
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From: UPSTATE NY
great question. although it doesnt need to be done as often, it is equally as important to change it as it is your motor oil, transmission fluid, and anything else. coolant is responsible for more than just keeping your engine from freezing in the winter. it acts as a lubricant for the whole cooling system, and it keeps your head gasket and other gaskets from deteriorating. if you take the cap off, and smell it, and it stinks, its too late. but better late than never. most people will buy a vehicle new, then put 140k miles on it, then start having problems, and then they say "oh many maybe i better change the fluid" well by now its too late....because at that kindof mileage it shouldve already been done multiple times!
its easy. take the cap off. get a bucket. every radiator has a drain plug. find it, loosen it. out comes the fluid. on that drain plug there may be a nipple. if so, put a 3/8" rubber hose on that nipple so it will neatly drain into the bucket. bounce the car a little bit to get all of it out. now all you have to do is fill it back up! the only real pain in the neck thats involved at that point is getting all the air out. you need to fill it up slowly and park the vehicle on an incline with the nose facing uphill, then bounce it some more and burp the air out of it. then run the vehicle with the heater on high, bounce it some more. and you may even have to utilize the air bleed screw, if it has one. (usually located near the thermostat housing) if air is trapped in the system your heater will work lousy and the engine will not be able to cool as well.
never ever ever use tap water. mix the ethelyne glycol with distilled water only! and never use propelyne glycol. it was a fad and supposedly needs to be changed less often, and there have been many reported cases of people having problems with it. remember. ethelyen glycol only!
ironically auto parts stores only carry the 50/50 premix, or the straight stuff, but never carry distilled water. you will need to buy it at the grocery store, its a dollar a gallon. regaurdless of what anybody ever tells you do not use tap water. it contains minerals which will cause corrosion and rusty scale buildup in your engine.
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 08:53 PM
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romod
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Well I flushed it and as soon as I turned it back on the engine won't warm up to normal even after 10 or 15 minutes of idling,but if I take it for a drive it does go up to almost normal,is it because of air and how do I burp it,,open the radiator cap after bouncing?
 
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Old Oct 14, 2010 | 11:27 PM
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g_k50
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Keep repeating the fill reservoir, run engine with temperature blend selector at the full warm position, fill coolant recovery reservoir until the coolant is between the "COOLANT FILL LEVEL" marks, turn engine off and let cool steps until it stabilizes and you have heat.

Did you check for possible coolant system issues?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2010 | 12:23 AM
  #5  
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romod
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Doesn;t look like any problems,,, worked just fine before the change,,,,, I had an old Mazda B-2000 and had a similar problem when I changed the coolant after flushing,never could get it to heat up again,tried new thermostats and nothing worked... I just assumed the core was plugged up,,,at least when I get this one moving the heat stays up and it will stay warm
 
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