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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 06:13 PM
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Change timing gears

The distributor doesn't turn on my 96, assume its timing gears. Don't see valves moving through oil filler opening. Can we be sure its the gears? How big a job is this with right tools?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2010 | 09:41 PM
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This may be a simple fix, If your distributor shaft is not turning then the pin that holds the gear on the bottom of the distributor shaft probably sheared, you can pull the distributor and get a new roll pin or buy a new distributor, Napa sells the roll pin for a couple bucks and with the proper punch you just knock out the old broken pin and lightly hammer in the new one, as for not seeing the rockers going up and down that could lead to a much more serious problem. sometimes when the gears shear or a timing chain break's and the valves are in the open position they will destroy the pistons on the up stroke. please provide more info such as did you just try to start it up and it wouldn't start or were you driving it and it just died?
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 07:17 AM
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A friend was driving it and it just quit. It has 145,715 miles on it. It doesn't sound bad turning over just doesn't fire. We thought either no fuel or electrical problem at first.
Thanks for any information. We can't afford a mechanic right now.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 09:56 AM
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Are you able to pull the distributor out? If it "just quit" it sounds like something on the electrical side broke.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 10:21 AM
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I'm working on getting distributor out to check it first.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 12:21 PM
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It is not distrubutor. Now going for timing gears.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by deadbishop12
It is not distrubutor. Now going for timing gears.
Next step is to pull the timing cover. You'll want to pull the pan, as you'll want a new gasket when you pull the timing cover.
Jack up the engine
drain the radiator
Pull the pan
pull the harmonic balancer
pull the timing cover
pull the cam and valve covers
loosen the rocker arms and remove the push rods
remove the lifters-KEEP THEM IN ORDER!
pull the cam and change the gearset
DON'T BREAK THE CAM THRUST PLATE!
installation in reverse order

You might get away with leaving the pan in place. I've never tried.
Good luck-keep us posted.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Wyowanderer
Next step is to pull the timing cover. You'll want to pull the pan, as you'll want a new gasket when you pull the timing cover.
Jack up the engine
drain the radiator
Pull the pan
pull the harmonic balancer
pull the timing cover
pull the cam and valve covers
loosen the rocker arms and remove the push rods
remove the lifters-KEEP THEM IN ORDER!
pull the cam and change the gearset
DON'T BREAK THE CAM THRUST PLATE!
installation in reverse order

You might get away with leaving the pan in place. I've never tried.
Good luck-keep us posted.
I think you'll find gear teeth in the o.pan. With that many miles I'd replace the pump while there. Replace with all metal gears, Cloyes, from Summit Racing. Heck, if it were me, I'd think long and hard about lifters and cam too. 'Why is there never enough money to do it right, but always enough to do it over.'
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 06:11 PM
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here is a cheap cam, cant help with the rest.

New Competition Cam for Ford 240- 300 cu.

It has been listed for sale many times
 
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Old Oct 12, 2010 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by F-250 restorer
I think you'll find gear teeth in the o.pan. With that many miles I'd replace the pump while there. Replace with all metal gears, Cloyes, from Summit Racing. Heck, if it were me, I'd think long and hard about lifters and cam too. 'Why is there never enough money to do it right, but always enough to do it over.'
Yup. Might as well install a one piece pan gasket, too.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2010 | 07:01 AM
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Got bolt out of harmonic balancer by wrapping old belt around outside and clamp it with 2 pairs vice grips. Haines book about useless. Bolts in gear puller from Auto Zone don't fit. Seem to be a size small or too big.. Thanks for input guys.
 
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