Here is a diagram ...

 

If you can do HVAC, you can do this job.

My thinking (everyone please chime in) is that the hose clamps should be replaced with new.

There is a cleaning procedure for the blue hoses, innards, etc.

See the tech folder.

 

FYI--I just looked up an intercooler price---list for $520 can be bought for $360 from Ed the parts guy, plus shipping of course. You may be able to shop and find it cheaper or closer to your location.

 

At those prices, why not new CAC hoses, clamps, the whole 9 yards?

 

I'm willing to bet that the hoses and clamps cost almost as much as the intercooler itself. I'm also willing to bet that most clamp "failures" are due to installer overtorquing and stripping the clamp threads and/or nuts. Ask me how I know--LOL. As for the hoses??? They either hold pressure or they don't so why not get all the "good" from them that you can----especially at $80 each.

 

I can probably do this..

bismic..thanks for the diagram. I might need stronger glasses though.
Its real hard to see. For some reason I'd like to know how its supposed
to work before I take it apart. <smile>

That hasn't always been the case. LOL

Does the exhaust spool the turbo intake?
And whats that thing on the lower left of the diagram?
Kind of hard to read.

Wait...I think I know...is that the piston?

So the cylinder exhaust and the turbo exhaust are under the turbo housing?
And the connections I see on the top/sides of the turbo are intake from air filter
and charge air through the intercooler to the intake?



And that grey dohickey in the middle of the page...
is that the EGR??

 

Just think of it as an HVAC system.

Cold air goes to the turbo to be compressed, then out to be chilled, then into engine for combustion, then out as hot gases, to run turbo, then to exhaust...

 

You CAN do this and we are here to help you. One thing you might want to acquire if you don't have it is a 10mm flexhead gear wrench. Makes removing the turbo bolts SO much easier. Also, soak the y-pipe to exhaust manifold bolts with PB blaster or wd40 ahead of time as you will need to loosen them to realign the y-pipe and turbo---much easier in the long run this way. Two more things you might want to acquire with all the money you are going to save are an upgraded turbo oil supply AND drain lines since they will be out anyway. At the same time you can clean your EGR valve and be all good to go.

 

I just had to replace the turbo on my 03' because the pin that moves the unison ring broke, the vanes were stuck closed. Went to the Garrett distributor for my area (info can be found on Garrett's web site Welcome to TurboByGarrett.com), and got the turbo. Entire BRAND NEW turbo was about $1100, and a reman was about $700. I went reman because they both have the same warranty (12 mo/unlimited mileage), and the distributor was a Garrett master remanufacturer. Had the turbo in 2 days regular ground freight. And it came with all new mounting hardware and seals, pretty much everything in one box. Just make sure you have (1) a good set of metric tools in 6pt and 12 pt (is it me, or does it seem the whole truck is help together with 10mm bolts), (2) a can of PB blaster, and (3) some patience. Oh, and (4) some pieces of foam to lay on top of the engine saves your chest.

It looks way more intimidating then it really is. If you can do HVAC, you can do this no problem.

Also check the tech folder for guides in removing the turbo

 

Here's a little better quality pic of what Mark posted..




Here's a simple explanation. Turbos have two sides(Exhaust/compressor). There is a wheel/turbine in the exhaust path which gets driven by the exhaust. The exhaust turbine is connected to another wheel(compressor wheel) on the opposite side of the turbo by a shaft. As the exhaust turbine is rotated by exhaust energy, the compressor builds boost on the intake side. The exhaust side is where the vanes(your sticking parts) are located.. Charge air cooler(or CAC) is an intercooler.

Here's a great diagram of the turbo looking from the rear.





Truly understanding how it all works is much more difficult than changing the parts..

 

William..THANK YOU for the opportunity to learn more than I expected.

Life is like a game of monopoly...it doesn't matter how much property
or money we have it all goes back in the box at the end.

Don't know where that came from it just sounds logical. LOL

Goodnight...and thanks AGAIN

 

Owed it to you guys to how it turned out.

I'll start at the beginning. I was born in...maybe thats too far back. LOL

Anyway, the first Ford truck I'd owned was a 1969 F250 4X4. I was fresh out
of the Marine Corp and this truck took some serious abuse. Built a homemade
horse box and put 2 horses in the bed of this thing and pulled another 2 horse
trailer behind it.

Then bought a 1976 F250 4X4 from my dad. Not quite the same truck but still very good.

Then got a 1962 F350 flatbed straight-six from grandpa with a thompson
2-speed rear end. This thing was a beast. Hauled LOTS of horses/cattle
with thing. Wouldn't go fast but it wouldn't break no matter what was thrown
at it.

First brand new was a 1989 F150 with a straight six. Good truck..I was expecting
it to do more than it was designed for though.

Then Finally got the best truck I'd owned so far..1997 F250 with a 460. Had to
modify the front end a bit, but this thing reminded me of all good things about the
Ford trucks I'd owned combined. The mileage sucked but who cared..it was GREAT.

Next was a 2005 F250 with the 5.4...Good truck just underpowered.

Then thought I'd try the diesel. Really hadn't had any problems with the motor
til the turbo/intercooler thing. But seemed to spend too much on front end repairs.
I kind of think it was due to the weight of the motor. But who knows..

Anyway, bought my first Chevy. Decieded to go back to gas. Its the 2010
6 litre. Waited to report til I had a chance to tow with it. My buddy has the
2005 6 litre gas and this one does better than that. It kind of reminds me of
the 460. Went to Ford looking for the V-10 but thier scarce as hens teeth and
Dodge had the 5.7 but couldn't help on price compared to the Chev.

Thanks to all here who help folks with their truck issues. I'll check in on
occasion.. I might even be bitching about the Chev pretty soon. Probably
won't be here though. LOL

Ya'll take care and keep the rubber side down.

Gary