The dealer stated above problems. I checked the FAQ turbo
section and am not sure if this is somethig I can do myself?
I did the ball joints (yea) but is this too much? All the posts
I've read @ the turbos make this job sound complicated.

Also, I have no idea what the "intercooler leaking" means.
I'll search for that next but thought I'd start asking first.
I'm a simple man looking for simple answers....

The dealer quoted $1700 for the turbo repair and $750 for the
CAC Intercooler repair.

I guess my question is...Would I be better off letting them do it.

Thanks AGAIN

Gary

 

"Intercooler leaking" means that there is pressure escaping from it. Most likely the intercooler cracked because the turbo was making too much boost. The turbo was making too much boost because it's vanes are stuck.

Without knowing your abilities it's tough to say whether or not you can do the work. I generally prescribe to the theory that if you question your ability to do it, you shouldn't.

 

For $1,700 are you sure you are not better off to put a new Garrett on it?

I think the new Garett has a coating that really prevents turbo rust --- someone talk about this.

Intercooler leaking --- more details:

Hose?

The actual intercooler?

Did he show you were?


I think you need to find a top diesel 6.0 guy near you.

 

The IC is a piece of cake. Price one out and change it yourself.

The decision in regard to the turbo is whether to clean/recondition it yourself, or just replace it with an aftermarket or Ford reman unit. If you are mechanically inclined, the turbo isn't a tough job either.

 

Is the intercooler in front of the radiator?

Does coolant go thru it to cool incoming ambient
air for the turbo?

Nevermind...dumb question...

What does the intercooler do and where is it??

Our dealer doesn't like us talking with the techs.
We have to deal with the service writers who...
well...you know.

 

The intercooler on our trucks is air to air....there's no coolant involved.

It's job is to cool the intake air charge.

 

For $2400 ??? H**l no!
Nothing is impossible, and by experience I know that with the 6.0 the hardest thing is to get to the components in the engine compartment. Almost everything - even the smallest jobs require to remove a lot of "stuff" just to get to the part you want to work on. Removing the turbocharger is not an easy job, for the first timer it could be confusing, but it is doable. If you are not afraid of wrenches, you can do it, and when you finished, you'll know why I almost passed out hearing how much $ they ask for it.
It is a good one day job, so make sure you're not planning a trip next morning, because who knows....
You'll have to start with removing the air filter, air intake , and the de-gas bottle (coolant reservoir tank). This should give you enough room to get to the Y-pipe behind the turbo, but you might have to remove the FICM too. Careful - don't brake the connectors. Now you will have enough room to remove the torque clamp at the Y-pipe.
On the passenger side you should have enough room, especially if you remove the oil fill neck, and the heater selector valve -it's that little black "mushroom". Now you have enough room to get to the down-pipe clamps, and the mounting bolts behind the turbo.
There is one oil feed line going to the top of the turbocharger, that needs to be removed also, and of course the charge pipe with the boot from the turbo.
And now is the trick: you want to pull the oil filter cap, and when the oil drained out, remove the filter housing. 4 bolts holding it, you'll need torques bits for this, and you also need'em to remove the plastic "tower" the filter slides onto.
Removing the oil filter housing is not necessary, but it's the one move, that will make removing the turbo way easier.
Now you should be ready to remove the mounting bolts, there are 3 of them - 2 is accessable from the passenger side ( one is behind) and one on the driver side. They don't really want to come out easy, if you have time, soak'em with PB blaster overnight.
As soon as you have them out, there is a matter of turning to get the turbocharger out.
There is the article in the tech folder about how to disassemble, and clean the turbo, so I'm not going to detail that.
To put it back is just the opposite, the tricky part could be to line up the oil discharge pipe under the turbo.

About the intercooler leaking - I'd start with the boots at the CAC pipes. If you'd have the intercooler blown, you'd hear that....

 

It's an air to air cooler located behind the A/C condenser, and in front of the radiator. The intake charge is heated as it's compressed by the turbo, and the IC helps to get rid of some of that heat energy. I type slow.

 

dcaddi2...that was too helpful. THANK YOU.

I sometimes feel too much pressure from the job, family..etc
to want to tackle something that seems overwhelming. Then
I read a post like yours and my confidence comes back. My
mechanicing skills are OK. I'm an HVAC guy by trade so..LOL

And thanks william for the help on the intercooler. It sounded
like, by the dealers explaination, it was something that was sucking
coolant into the turbo. All he said was its in front of the radiator
and can destroy the turbo if not repaired.

So..the intercooler is where the turbo gets its air? The incoming
air just goes through a condenser looking device first?

SteveBricks..Thanks for your input. You sound like the intercooler
is a device that takes the discharged turbo air and runs it through
a heat exchanger first before entering the intake? Is that right?

The truck sounds like normal so where would I check these boots
at the "CAC" pipes?

 

Outside air passes through the air filter, then turbo, then intercooler, and into the engine. You can start at the filter and start tracing the piping..

 

William..if the intercooler was leaking it wouldn't "destroy" the turbo?

The way I understand it now is... it wouldn't effect the turbo at all.

The only thing it would do is decrease boost. (if boost is the right word)

Like steve said the sticking turbo could blow out the cooler.

What if...I left the turbo sticking..would it destroy the motor?

 

If you can do ball joints then the intercooler and turbo are a piece of cake--MUCH simpler. Upgraded Garrett turbo $1200 shipped to the house COMPLETE. Intercooler is something like $400 and you may be able to find a new one on ebay cheaper. You'll need to spend an additional $10 for the turbo gasket kit. This is NOT a hard job, just a fairly good number of bolts. You can probably find the repair on youtube. FYI--all those big pipes that go from the turbo to the front of the motor are attached to the intercooler. IIRC you can do it without even draining the radiator. If you leave the turbo sticking you'll have additional problems. As far as that goes you can disassemble the turbo and clean it. There is a procedure in the tech folder with links on that repair. No a leaking intercooler won't destroy the turbo but it will destroy your fuel mileage and performance.

 

Thanks ncpartsman..what other problems could a sticking turbo cause?

I am thinking the vanes could come apart and...well...


One more question and I am serious...what does IIRC mean??

 

The vanes don't come apart very easily. They'd go out the exhaust piping if they did. The turbo would be destroyed.

If your IC only has a slight leak, an overboost condition can possibly lead to head gasket failure. The IC won't get any better. You'll throw codes, if you haven't already. Drive-ability will suffer.

IIRC=If I Recall Correctly

 

William..thats what I don't understand. If the air comes from the filter then
through the turbo and into the intercooler and to the intake....

What role does the exhaust play in this circle of horsepower love?

Thanks for the IIRC explaination.