help with 6.9
#1
help with 6.9
natfro's husband here from the mystery switch post. thanks for the help.I have a few more questions/problems.1 when i pulled the ip off i removed the 4 bolts holding the gear cover to the block.should i have done that or removed the pump from gear housing.and when i put it back on is it in time? 2 i but ip back on hooked all lines wires up started cranking engine over had fuel leaks on all 4 injectors on pass side other side was bone dry.i put new o rings on all 8 plus new line and caps on injectors. now i am not getting fuel to any injector.i am getting fuel at filter and the line to the ip and from the line coming out of the top of the ip(returnline i think) any ideas or help????
#2
Question one, the four bolts holding the IP drive gear cover down is the wrong way to remove the IP.
When you swap the IP, the drive gear is now not in the same location as it was when it was removed, so the IP is out of time with the rest of the engine.
Correct way is remove the three nuts holding the IP to the drive gear cover and the three 5/16" bolts that hold the drive gear to the IP shaft leaving the IP drive gear meshed with the cam drive gear so everything stays in time.
When you turn the key on with a cold engine, you should have power at all three electrical connectors on the IP.
The front connector on the drivers side is for the fuel shut off solenoid.
It should have power when the key is on at all times.
The timing advance solenoid (rear drivers side) and the fast idle solenoid (passenger side) will not have power when the engine temp goes over 112 degrees.
Have you already swapped the IP, the wrong way?
If so don't feel bad, I know a couple of the manuals tell you to do it that way.
When you swap the IP, the drive gear is now not in the same location as it was when it was removed, so the IP is out of time with the rest of the engine.
Correct way is remove the three nuts holding the IP to the drive gear cover and the three 5/16" bolts that hold the drive gear to the IP shaft leaving the IP drive gear meshed with the cam drive gear so everything stays in time.
When you turn the key on with a cold engine, you should have power at all three electrical connectors on the IP.
The front connector on the drivers side is for the fuel shut off solenoid.
It should have power when the key is on at all times.
The timing advance solenoid (rear drivers side) and the fast idle solenoid (passenger side) will not have power when the engine temp goes over 112 degrees.
Have you already swapped the IP, the wrong way?
If so don't feel bad, I know a couple of the manuals tell you to do it that way.
#7
a guy (not from here) that if i took the ip, housing and gear off all as 1 unit and no gears were moved that if i sat it back on and bolts went in with no problems then everything should be in time .is this possibly true? i am not getting a single drop of fuel to the injectors.it is getting fuel to the filter and to the pump
Trending Topics
#8
How could you ever not move that gear though? One tooth out and your timing is off. Getting them lined up again is tricky.
Not sure why you would have fuel before and not now, unless the fuel shutoff solenoid isn't getting it's signal to be on? Even if the timing is off you should be getting fuel, just not at the right time.
Not sure why you would have fuel before and not now, unless the fuel shutoff solenoid isn't getting it's signal to be on? Even if the timing is off you should be getting fuel, just not at the right time.
#9
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
38Chevy454
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
18
05-27-2011 09:29 PM