IP Swap out?
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 26
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IP Swap out?
Hi all,
Went out the other day to start the 89 F-350 (289Km and this is original ip and injectors) and all I got was one cough and then nothing. Thought I hear some kind of click right after cough.
Pulled a line from the fuel filter and got fuel out upon cranking, cracked nut on injector line and nothing.
can hear ip click upon applying 12v to front connector.
Got new pump from NAPA, and injectors, however the injectors do not have a code on them the I have read about here. Awaiting the install kit for the pump so I know what size 12pt socket to get to remove ip.
A couple of questions: Should I be concerned with the lack of code on injectors, and do I need a special "bent" wrench to remove the nuts on the ip side of the timing gear cover?
Thanks in advance
Lawrence
Went out the other day to start the 89 F-350 (289Km and this is original ip and injectors) and all I got was one cough and then nothing. Thought I hear some kind of click right after cough.
Pulled a line from the fuel filter and got fuel out upon cranking, cracked nut on injector line and nothing.
can hear ip click upon applying 12v to front connector.
Got new pump from NAPA, and injectors, however the injectors do not have a code on them the I have read about here. Awaiting the install kit for the pump so I know what size 12pt socket to get to remove ip.
A couple of questions: Should I be concerned with the lack of code on injectors, and do I need a special "bent" wrench to remove the nuts on the ip side of the timing gear cover?
Thanks in advance
Lawrence
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,098
Likes: 1,504
From: western SD
The injectors you bought were probably remans, so the lack of codes will not hurt anything. a 9/16 moon wrench will make it easier to reach the IP side nuts, but it can be done with a normal one. NAPA AUTO PARTS The 12 pt. socket you need is a 5/16.
More Turbo
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 521
Likes: 6
From: Cincinnati, OH
The 12-pt are 5/16 as stated. The wrench you use may determine if it will work or need some "clearancing" with the grinder.
I did the swap with no previous experience. You can do it, just make sure to not rotate the engine after you remove the IP and leave the gear in place inside the cover. That way you do not mess up the timing of the gears. Rest of the work is basic mechanical R&R. Good time to replace the GP's as access will be super easy with everything out of the way.
I did the swap with no previous experience. You can do it, just make sure to not rotate the engine after you remove the IP and leave the gear in place inside the cover. That way you do not mess up the timing of the gears. Rest of the work is basic mechanical R&R. Good time to replace the GP's as access will be super easy with everything out of the way.
Clueless spectator!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 6
From: Denver, CO
The 12 pt socket is for the bolts that hold the pump to the pump gear they are inside the pump gear housing. I have used an open end wrench to get to all three pump nuts but I highly advise making yourself one. Just get a cheapo 9/16 combo wrench and bend and grind it until it fits all three nuts. It is not a hard install, just read the install threads, and take your time. X2 on the glowplugs. At least test them while you are in there. You will want a return line kit, but I imagine that is what your "install kit" is. For the record, although there is no reason to, you can turn the engine over manually without disrupting the gear alignment, as long as the timing gear cover is in place. there is not enough room inside the cover for the gears to un-mesh as long as it is bolted down. Just make sure that the alignment dowel on the pump goes into the hole on the pump gear wen you put the pump on, and you are good to go.
Best of luck,
Mac.
Best of luck,
Mac.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
Likes: 7
From: Ottawa, Ontario
At the same time of doing the pump, i'm also doing both head gaskets, so everything has to come out anyways. My injectors and return kit is new from 4 months ago. Wouldn't be surprised that killed the pump.
Glow plugs are all new to. I will send the heads to be planned and check for cracks, and upgrade to the 7.3 rocker arms while they'll be out.
And ok that 12 point is for the bolts that you face at, the ones behind the oil filler witch you have to remove on the 6.9. And the moon wrench is to get at the back nuts where the pump is bolted to the oil fill housing?
Glow plugs are all new to. I will send the heads to be planned and check for cracks, and upgrade to the 7.3 rocker arms while they'll be out.
And ok that 12 point is for the bolts that you face at, the ones behind the oil filler witch you have to remove on the 6.9. And the moon wrench is to get at the back nuts where the pump is bolted to the oil fill housing?
Clueless spectator!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 6
From: Denver, CO
John,
I am in the middle of a head job on my 94. If you get the Fel-Pro top end kit (about 90 bucks at Rock auto), you will get new o-rings for the return line caps, and copper washers for the injectors. You will also need to buy a valley pan, (41 bucks at rock auto called an intake manifold gasket) which comes with a cdr grommet, and the rtv for the install. you are probably correct on the injectors doing in the pump. Also correct on the 12 pt socket. The moon wrench is not necessary IMHO any box end 9/16 can be made to fit. Don't be stingy on the grinding. I'll find you some pics of mine.
I am in the middle of a head job on my 94. If you get the Fel-Pro top end kit (about 90 bucks at Rock auto), you will get new o-rings for the return line caps, and copper washers for the injectors. You will also need to buy a valley pan, (41 bucks at rock auto called an intake manifold gasket) which comes with a cdr grommet, and the rtv for the install. you are probably correct on the injectors doing in the pump. Also correct on the 12 pt socket. The moon wrench is not necessary IMHO any box end 9/16 can be made to fit. Don't be stingy on the grinding. I'll find you some pics of mine.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
Likes: 7
From: Ottawa, Ontario
If you can, i'd like the pics, I'd imagine you don't wanna grind it down to much, I have a thing for breaking weak tools on rusty bolts 
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
Likes: 7
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Ha yea, no one here in town has the mechanics or even the equipment to time these engines anymore.
To find a timing meter, I'd take it for sure. I have 3 IDI's now so it be a wise investment for me.
To find a timing meter, I'd take it for sure. I have 3 IDI's now so it be a wise investment for me.
Clueless spectator!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 6
From: Denver, CO
It doesn't take much force on the nuts to get them loose or tight. I would err on the side of too much grinding, it makes the job much easier. I can get to all three nuts with this wrench without removing a single thing from my motor. PRICELESS! I could use a little more grinding to get to the top bolt easier. I don't think I am even close to too thin as far as strength goes here. Also, that bend in it is critical . Just keep bending and grinding until it fits well, and if you go too far, get another cheapo wrench!
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
Likes: 7
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Doesn't sound to bad!
Only thing is i'm doing that....in this
However, since i'm also the head gaskets, the entire front of the van has to come out also I'll have abit more room to work with.
Only thing is i'm doing that....in this
However, since i'm also the head gaskets, the entire front of the van has to come out also I'll have abit more room to work with.
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
depends on your modle of gear cover in my opinion. there was no way i could get a wrench in to mine. the oil neck was in the way because i had the other style. a socket is the easiest way to deal with it a wrench makes you use wierd angles and i can never seem to keep them in my hands. the socket allows the handle to always be in the largest free space in the engine. it allows you to take 2 clicks and go back to start again where a wrench you have to pull it off and re orientate it. Im forever fighting with angles to get it back on just wasnt worth my nuckels getting skinned. not to mention if you get really lazy or a good stuck bolt you can get an air impact socket driver so you dont have to do all the ratcheting
Clueless spectator!
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,587
Likes: 6
From: Denver, CO
Ouch! yeah it is hard enough to do in a truck! To set the timing you will need to have the whole thing re-assembled so you can get it to normal operating temp.
I just bought this:
Ferret Instruments V765-01 Injector Tester - Fuel System Tools
I can't comment on it yet as I have not tried it. but it is the go to for the shade tree mechanics here.
I can relate to the front end coming off, here is my current project, which is not going smoothly for me right now!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...et-repair.html
I just bought this:
Ferret Instruments V765-01 Injector Tester - Fuel System Tools
I can't comment on it yet as I have not tried it. but it is the go to for the shade tree mechanics here.
I can relate to the front end coming off, here is my current project, which is not going smoothly for me right now!
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...et-repair.html
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8,005
Likes: 7
From: Ottawa, Ontario
Yeah I've been lurking on that already. I'm still deciding what i'm going to do for head bolts... think I might just get new ones. I don't tow with this van, and it's not going to see any boost as long as it's at my ownership.