IP saga continues...
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IP saga continues...
Last we heard our hero was still working on installing his IP...
O.K., from the top, I put in a new lift pump when I began this job on my truck. It seemed to go fine and even got it started although the IP was bad or on the way to going completely. From there I put in new O-rings, return lines, 2 new injectors and then the dreaded IP. I have everything back together and am using some start up tips from another site. Such as using the starter sellanoid to turn it over rather than the key to save on glow plugs, and using a wire from the positive battery to energize the IP. The problem is that it won't fire or even sound like it wants to. I loosened several injectors to release any air to no avail.
On a side note, I did notice that at the top of one of the fuel lines there is a little fuel bubbling out.
Anyone have any ideas?
TJC
O.K., from the top, I put in a new lift pump when I began this job on my truck. It seemed to go fine and even got it started although the IP was bad or on the way to going completely. From there I put in new O-rings, return lines, 2 new injectors and then the dreaded IP. I have everything back together and am using some start up tips from another site. Such as using the starter sellanoid to turn it over rather than the key to save on glow plugs, and using a wire from the positive battery to energize the IP. The problem is that it won't fire or even sound like it wants to. I loosened several injectors to release any air to no avail.
On a side note, I did notice that at the top of one of the fuel lines there is a little fuel bubbling out.
Anyone have any ideas?
TJC
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I didn't use the key at first to hopefully prime the system and get fuel out of the injectors. I got a little fuel out of one injector, but not much. I have tried starting it from the key, but am only wearing the batteries down at this point. No fuel points to the IP at this point.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Manitoba
Check the FSS front electrical connector on the drivers side of the IP for power key on.
The GP system shows a WTstart light, when it goes out try the start mode, foot to floor and starter engaged......... for 20 seconds then turn it off and do it again.........
The GP system shows a WTstart light, when it goes out try the start mode, foot to floor and starter engaged......... for 20 seconds then turn it off and do it again.........
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Did you connect your wires back on the ip? I had someone turn the engine over while I bled the schrader valve on the filter and then cracked a couple of injectors. When the truck acted like it wanted to start I tightened the injectors and she fired right up.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Powell River B.C.
I did my initial air purge with the fuel lines disconnected from the injectors completely, with clean paper towel between the line and injector, then with a jumper wire from the battery to the starter (fender) soliniod,AND to the Fuel Shut off soliniod, crank it over with the fuel lever in the Wide open position. Once the towels started to get wet, Hook everything back up and start as normal, with glow plugs.
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TJC, It's been my experiance that it can take a long time to push the air threw the fuel tube from the filter husing to the IP, I now remove the line at the IP with the FSS wire removed from the IP, with rags/Paper towels under the open line crank till solid fuel, then atach it to the IP. now hook up the FSS, and cycle the key to energize the Glow Pluggs when you hear the relay clicking on and off use your jumper to start the engine holding the fuel lever wide open, when it catches, hold a high Idle till all the air is out of the system/ the engine will then be running smoooth!!!!!!!! Good luck, you have gotten a lot af good advice from all. I to use the jumper wire to energize the starter
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: On a farm.
The electric pump will push right through the mechanical no trouble and the mechancial will pull through the electric when it isn't running. In front of the selector would be OK, but those inline pumps are "pushers" not "pullers" so they are most efficient near the tank.
Posting Guru
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by Jim Allen
The electric pump will push right through the mechanical no trouble and the mechancial will pull through the electric when it isn't running.
Originally Posted by Jim Allen
In front of the selector would be OK, but those inline pumps are "pushers" not "pullers" so they are most efficient near the tank.
If I were doing an electric pump, I think I'd install it in parallel with the mechanical pump. That way if the diaphragm in the mechanical ever did fail, the electric wouldn't pump the crankcase full of fuel, and if the electric ever burns out you wouldn't be stranded. Kind of a belt AND suspenders approach....
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Right or wrong I used a little starting fluid in the intake and I was able to get it running. Not great, but running. It is kind of running on 7 cylinders and here's why: The fuel line goes to the injector right? right. Fuel is spurting out of where the 5/8 nut meets the fuel line. At the space where the nut turns around, not underneath it where the return line is. I know it might sound crazy, but I watched it for the last couple of minutes. I did not cross thread it, I made sure this didn't happen.
So why would fuel shoot out the top and not through the injector? Path of least resistance?
So not what, is there something to shim it with? Do I have to get a new fuel line?
Again, all the help on this thread has been great - especially for a newbie like myself. Thanks again.
So why would fuel shoot out the top and not through the injector? Path of least resistance?
So not what, is there something to shim it with? Do I have to get a new fuel line?
Again, all the help on this thread has been great - especially for a newbie like myself. Thanks again.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Cracked line at the nut......... fuel above the nut is a cracked line, below is orings/cap
Sorry but ya gotta get a new one..... no fix. Now you know why you could not start it your fuel was draining off out of the IP every time you quite cranking.
http://www.mwfi.com/Dieselpage.htm cheapest I know of with great service.....
Always reinstall the line clamps or you will break a line right at the injector usually.
Sorry but ya gotta get a new one..... no fix. Now you know why you could not start it your fuel was draining off out of the IP every time you quite cranking.
http://www.mwfi.com/Dieselpage.htm cheapest I know of with great service.....
Always reinstall the line clamps or you will break a line right at the injector usually.
Last edited by PLC7.3; Mar 9, 2007 at 09:56 PM.