help with 6.9
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
help with 6.9
natfro's husband here from the mystery switch post. thanks for the help.I have a few more questions/problems.1 when i pulled the ip off i removed the 4 bolts holding the gear cover to the block.should i have done that or removed the pump from gear housing.and when i put it back on is it in time? 2 i but ip back on hooked all lines wires up started cranking engine over had fuel leaks on all 4 injectors on pass side other side was bone dry.i put new o rings on all 8 plus new line and caps on injectors. now i am not getting fuel to any injector.i am getting fuel at filter and the line to the ip and from the line coming out of the top of the ip(returnline i think) any ideas or help????
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Question one, the four bolts holding the IP drive gear cover down is the wrong way to remove the IP.
When you swap the IP, the drive gear is now not in the same location as it was when it was removed, so the IP is out of time with the rest of the engine.
Correct way is remove the three nuts holding the IP to the drive gear cover and the three 5/16" bolts that hold the drive gear to the IP shaft leaving the IP drive gear meshed with the cam drive gear so everything stays in time.
When you turn the key on with a cold engine, you should have power at all three electrical connectors on the IP.
The front connector on the drivers side is for the fuel shut off solenoid.
It should have power when the key is on at all times.
The timing advance solenoid (rear drivers side) and the fast idle solenoid (passenger side) will not have power when the engine temp goes over 112 degrees.
Have you already swapped the IP, the wrong way?
If so don't feel bad, I know a couple of the manuals tell you to do it that way.
When you swap the IP, the drive gear is now not in the same location as it was when it was removed, so the IP is out of time with the rest of the engine.
Correct way is remove the three nuts holding the IP to the drive gear cover and the three 5/16" bolts that hold the drive gear to the IP shaft leaving the IP drive gear meshed with the cam drive gear so everything stays in time.
When you turn the key on with a cold engine, you should have power at all three electrical connectors on the IP.
The front connector on the drivers side is for the fuel shut off solenoid.
It should have power when the key is on at all times.
The timing advance solenoid (rear drivers side) and the fast idle solenoid (passenger side) will not have power when the engine temp goes over 112 degrees.
Have you already swapped the IP, the wrong way?
If so don't feel bad, I know a couple of the manuals tell you to do it that way.
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Yes, You should have left the IP gear cover on, Removing the IP with that cover affects fuel timing.
It's extremely hard to re-time it now because all the marks are inside the front cover.
Dave Sponaugle is the one to respond to this, he will shortly.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
It's extremely hard to re-time it now because all the marks are inside the front cover.
Dave Sponaugle is the one to respond to this, he will shortly.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
a guy (not from here) that if i took the ip, housing and gear off all as 1 unit and no gears were moved that if i sat it back on and bolts went in with no problems then everything should be in time .is this possibly true? i am not getting a single drop of fuel to the injectors.it is getting fuel to the filter and to the pump
Trending Topics
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 0
From: Peterborough, Ontario
How could you ever not move that gear though? One tooth out and your timing is off. Getting them lined up again is tricky.
Not sure why you would have fuel before and not now, unless the fuel shutoff solenoid isn't getting it's signal to be on? Even if the timing is off you should be getting fuel, just not at the right time.
Not sure why you would have fuel before and not now, unless the fuel shutoff solenoid isn't getting it's signal to be on? Even if the timing is off you should be getting fuel, just not at the right time.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 912
Likes: 0
From: Marianna, Florida USA
May be its good thing you're not getting fuel. If you timing is off, bad things can happen! It won't take long either.
No matter where the timing is, you should be getting fuel. I'd double check my timing before I went any further.
No matter where the timing is, you should be getting fuel. I'd double check my timing before I went any further.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
38Chevy454
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
18
May 27, 2011 09:29 PM
