Hi all,

I've just purchased a 94 F 150 Flair side 5.0L. It will need lots of work. I noticed that the Check Engine light is on. The error code is 332- Something to do with "no flow detected from ERG". A new ERG vave is about $150.00. Any way to be sure that a new vave will correct the problem. Also is there anyway to clean or test it. The Clymer manual was somewhat vague about those items and some other posts indicated that its frequently not an ERG problem. ANY help would be appreciated.

 

Your issue may just be the EGR position sensor on top of the EGR valve. Those are inexpensive. Well I guess they went up a little since I bought mine. I got if for less than 20 a few years back. Its 29 now.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_593225191___

I would also check that the vacuum line going to the EGR valve is sealed up and not broken. I believe you can also use a vacuum pump on the valve and a multimeter to see if the sensor reads different when the valve opens and closes.

 

Also that is the wrong meaning for the code 332. Your truck does not detect flow.

Continuous Memory DTC 332 indicates the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and the EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation.

Possible causes:
Obstructed or cracked vacuum hose to EGR valve.
Damaged EGR valve.
Damaged EVR solenoid harness.

 

I also had what I was told is the EVP go out. Its next to the coil and has 2-3 vaccum lines going to it and a electrical connector. The top is round and about the size of a quarter or so. Is this actually called the EVR?

 

Yes that is the EVR solenoid.

EVR: EGR Vacuum Regulator Solenoid mounted near the coil.
EVP: EGR Valve Position sensor mounted on top of the EGR valve.
EGR: Exhaust Gas Recirculation.

 

I should have know that.

 

Thanks to all of you! I'm still learning to read codes. I missed about 10 years of Maintenance thinking that its too complicated. Just so you know I removed the ERG valve and the tube was covered in soot. I cleaned the tube and the valve but it still has a check engine light. Will keep working on the issue and will be back.

 

If the tube was plugged solid it would not through a code.
The computer only looks at the movement of the EGR valve and not the flow.
That is why you need to go after the vacuum lines, EGR valve sensor and the EGR solenoid.

 

Thanks - There was some open space in the tube. I was wondering if I could see any movement in the valve. There appears to be a small but solid shaft that runs the lenght of assemby (from the cast fitting to the top where the sensor is attached. It does not appear to move if pressed from either the top or the bottom. I was wondering if that was normal. Sorry if this is a dumb question but everything is a learning experience.

I'll start looking at the other parts next weekend. ( I lve about 50 miles from where the truck is stored.)

 

Just hook a vacuum line from the intake to it and see if it will move full open.
If it does the diaphragm is OK and you can start looking at the other items.
You can also use a hand vacuum pump for this test if you want to.

 

Ok its fixed. Here is what I learned. Hopefully this will help other folks.

1. You really need to check all of the vacum lines and contections. Before worrying about all the codes. I found that one line was leaking and the ERG solonid had a bad connection. Once the connection was corrected, one of the codes disapeared. - NO LAUGHING HERE.
2. The ERG valve has a pindle or center shaft, whic moves up and down. If you pull yours and it doesn't move after cleaning, that is your problem.
3. You can sometimes remove the valve and clean with Carb cleaner. Hopefully that saves the $100.0 price of the new valve.
4. Changing these out is very easy. One pipe connection. 2 bolts, one connection and one vacum line.
5. You can also reuse the ERG sensor. 3 bolts.
6. DON'T forget to reconnect the vacum line.

THANKS To all for the help. More questions will follow.