VGT turbo ABC's
#1
04-04-2009, 08:05 PM
VGT turbo ABC's
I thought I would put all these in one turbo post. First is a look at your turbo. http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...6lvgtguide.pdf next an exploded view with the M/Y updates.http://turbodieselforums.com/diesel_9.pdf Last but not least is the cleaning of the turbo.http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articl...icle-06-05.php Post #4 is the VGT relearn. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-04-truck.html
#2
04-04-2009, 08:17 PM
I have some very good slides on the turbo removal and cleaning in a couple of my albums.
Turbo removal:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...p?albumid=1064
Turbo Cleaning:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...p?albumid=1065
Also have some great turbo removal tips that Brickie is looking over and will generate a detailed procedure on removing the turbo (hopefully w/ pics).
Maxium4x4 has agreed to put this in the Tech folder (as long as it turns out well :-) )
Turbo removal:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...p?albumid=1064
Turbo Cleaning:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...p?albumid=1065
Also have some great turbo removal tips that Brickie is looking over and will generate a detailed procedure on removing the turbo (hopefully w/ pics).
Maxium4x4 has agreed to put this in the Tech folder (as long as it turns out well :-) )
#4
04-04-2009, 09:04 PM
The whole job may take up to 7 hrs including the turbo cleaning.
Here's a good way to do it:
Get the kit (p/n 1870713C91) from your local International dealer, the Ford part number is 4c4z-9v424-aa. BE SURE to mark the alignment of EVERYTHING before taking the turbo apart, they are a ROYAL pain to get back together if mis-aligned. FYI - The only gasket is on the oil supply line.
This is a good time to buy and install the (larger) upgraded turbo oil drain line.
Disconnect the batteries before starting
Make sure truck is cold, remove cooling system cap to make sure of no pressure
The turbo has 3-10mm head bolts, two exhaust clamps (11mm deep socket), air intake, inter cooler (blue hose--11mm deep), oil supply line, oil drain underneath comes out when you lift out turbo.
The best wrench to get the turbo bolts off with is a 10mm flex head gear wrench--IMHO. PBblaster works miracles on those stubborn bolts especially in high heat exhaust applications.
There are no gaskets for the turbo air pipes (intake or exhaust). The clamps aren't that hard to strip, so be careful. Be sure and clean the blue hose at the turbo and use hairspray on the pipes when you reattach them - helps them stick and stay stuck.
Remove the two small hoses going into the degas bottle, You can stick 3/8 bolts in the hoses to prevent any leakage
Pull the filter minder out of the intake tube
Disconnect the wiring harness from the mass flow sensor downstream of the air filter
Loosen the hose clamp that connects the rubber intake hose to the black plastic turbo intake tube
Remove the secondary air intake hose from the intake tube upstream of the filter
Now remove the whole air filter assembly and tubes by disconnecting the rubber hose from the turbo intake tube, pull it up and out of the vehicle. You do not have to separate the air filter element from the tubes, the whole thing comes out with the tubes
Remove the two nuts that secure the turbo intake tube bracket to the top of the PCM on the driver side valve cover.
Loosen the hose clamp that holds the intake tube to the turbo. You can now twist the intake tube up and back out of the way with the CCV hose still connected OR, there are two bolts holding a bracket to that piece of tube and then two more at the bottom. You can take them both off at the FICM which are 10's and then take the top out of the tube and loosened the bottom one and it comes right out those bolts are 8's. You can use bungy cords or tie-wraps to keep hoses up-right and out of the way.
Remove the two small bolts that attach the degas bottle to the firewall, pull degas bottle back to give more working room. The egr hose on the resivor has to come off but leave it up or you will make a mess.
You can remove the alternator, but it is not necessary - just makes a little more room
Loosen the compressor discharge boot clamp and remove the boot from the compressor, wire the IC tube back out of the way. If you have dual alts, watch out you don't lift the rubber boot covering the battery connection to the alt and touch it with the IC tube and cause an arc like I did, put some duct tape over it
Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the turbine discharge. The clamp will most likely be seized to the flanges requiring some creative leverage with a screwdriver/hammer, etc to get it loose from the flanges. Note - Another way: Loosen the 2 nuts at the cat or whatever is there. Take the downpipe clamp and y-pipe clamp off. The reason to loosen the bottom of the exhaust is only to make it easier to deal with everything. Get the exhaust downpipe off first and you'll see how to tackle the turbine inlet pipe
Disconnect the Y pipe from the turbine inlet. Ditto for removing the clamp from the flanges
Remove the two plastic nails that secure the plastic wire harness support directly above the turbo. The third nail does not have to be removed. Slide the support out from under the 3rd nail and wire it to the wiper up out of the way. To remove the nails, slide the tips of a needle nose under the head and pry up
Disconnect the wiring harness from the turbo vane actuator
Remove the bolts that secure the oil supply line to the top of the turbo, wire the line back out of the way. Cover the oil port in the turbo with tape to prevent contamination
Remove the three 10 mm bolts that secure the turbo to the pedestal. Two of the bolt shanks are in a horizontal position and are located on the bearing side of the scroll. The 3rd bolt is in a vertical position and is on the outlet side of the scroll and can be accessed with a 10 mm socket and short extension over the top of the Y pipe to turbo connection
A 10 mm box wrench works on the other two, a gearwrench makes it easier as one of the other posters said. The passenger side horizontal bolt on mine was almost finger loose, the other horizontal bolt was a little tighter and the vertical bolt on the back was tightest. I sprayed all three with PB a few hours before. As one of the other posters said, use 6 pts only to break them loose
The turbo will twist and come out, just remember how it came out and go back the same way. I usually rotate it 90 degrees so that the air inlet is on top or bottom. It is a lot easier than it looks
The turbo can be somewhat stuck to the pedestal so you may need to take a crow bar and carefully pry up between the pedestal and the bottom of the bearing center section around the oil drain tube to break it loose.
Now comes the fun part. You'll need to position yourself on top of the passenger side battery, radiator, etc to work that mother out from its perch on the passenger side
Once I had it on the bench I followed the FordDoctors.com cleaning procedure.
Check the tolerance once the turbo is out - The tolerance is measured in axial play (in and out) and there should be no more then .091mm (0.0036in)
Lowes has a similar tool to the 3M kit used in the article. You can chuck it up in your 3/8" drill. You may want to do the center section around the turbine mostly by hand with Scotchbrite and 320 wet or dry paper with WD40 so you won't risk hitting the turbine with the drill chuck. The unison plate cleaned up pretty easily.
For the vanes, just use the scotchbite pads and WD40. The scroll was the hardest and took the longest. It took a combination of the surfacing tool, wet-or-dry, Scotchbrite, WD40, brake cleaner to get it cleaned and polished. Getting around the pins and between the pins and the scroll is the hardest.
Keep each vane in its original postion just in case it had some wear, not sure this is necessary but it doesn't hurt.
When re-assembling, rub a light coat of anti-seize on the bearing surfaces between the unison plate and the center section, the surface of the scroll that the vanes ride against and the surface of the unison plate that the vanes ride against.
Also put it on the mating surfaces between the scroll and the center section in case you have to do this job again sometime. Also rub it on the inlet and outlet flanges and the inside of the flange clamps to also make it easier to get them off again if necessary.
Do not forget to replace the oil drain tube O-ring, theres no way you want to go thru this again due to a bad 50 cent O-ring.
Re-installing:
Look at everything that is underneath the turbo on the engine. Make sure none of the wiring harnesses are rubbing on anything (top of the driver side valve cover is a common place to see issues)
Wrestle that mother back on to its perch. Watch the drain tube and o-ring. You can put anti-seize on the mating surfaces between the turbo and the pedestal and on the turbo bolts. Some folks even put lock washers on the turbo bolts.
Start the bolts by hand before tighting any of them because most of the time they don't line up right off
When re-assembling, you must properly align the flange on the turbo (where both up-pipes join into the "Y" collector, right before the turbine inlet) or it will not spool.
Hook up the Y-pipe, downpipe, oil supply ( use a new gasket)
Clean the IC tube and boot with solvent, torque boot clamp to 96 in-lb
Assembly of the rest is the "reverse of the above", as they like to say in the manuals
Here's a good way to do it:
Get the kit (p/n 1870713C91) from your local International dealer, the Ford part number is 4c4z-9v424-aa. BE SURE to mark the alignment of EVERYTHING before taking the turbo apart, they are a ROYAL pain to get back together if mis-aligned. FYI - The only gasket is on the oil supply line.
This is a good time to buy and install the (larger) upgraded turbo oil drain line.
Disconnect the batteries before starting
Make sure truck is cold, remove cooling system cap to make sure of no pressure
The turbo has 3-10mm head bolts, two exhaust clamps (11mm deep socket), air intake, inter cooler (blue hose--11mm deep), oil supply line, oil drain underneath comes out when you lift out turbo.
The best wrench to get the turbo bolts off with is a 10mm flex head gear wrench--IMHO. PBblaster works miracles on those stubborn bolts especially in high heat exhaust applications.
There are no gaskets for the turbo air pipes (intake or exhaust). The clamps aren't that hard to strip, so be careful. Be sure and clean the blue hose at the turbo and use hairspray on the pipes when you reattach them - helps them stick and stay stuck.
Remove the two small hoses going into the degas bottle, You can stick 3/8 bolts in the hoses to prevent any leakage
Pull the filter minder out of the intake tube
Disconnect the wiring harness from the mass flow sensor downstream of the air filter
Loosen the hose clamp that connects the rubber intake hose to the black plastic turbo intake tube
Remove the secondary air intake hose from the intake tube upstream of the filter
Now remove the whole air filter assembly and tubes by disconnecting the rubber hose from the turbo intake tube, pull it up and out of the vehicle. You do not have to separate the air filter element from the tubes, the whole thing comes out with the tubes
Remove the two nuts that secure the turbo intake tube bracket to the top of the PCM on the driver side valve cover.
Loosen the hose clamp that holds the intake tube to the turbo. You can now twist the intake tube up and back out of the way with the CCV hose still connected OR, there are two bolts holding a bracket to that piece of tube and then two more at the bottom. You can take them both off at the FICM which are 10's and then take the top out of the tube and loosened the bottom one and it comes right out those bolts are 8's. You can use bungy cords or tie-wraps to keep hoses up-right and out of the way.
Remove the two small bolts that attach the degas bottle to the firewall, pull degas bottle back to give more working room. The egr hose on the resivor has to come off but leave it up or you will make a mess.
You can remove the alternator, but it is not necessary - just makes a little more room
Loosen the compressor discharge boot clamp and remove the boot from the compressor, wire the IC tube back out of the way. If you have dual alts, watch out you don't lift the rubber boot covering the battery connection to the alt and touch it with the IC tube and cause an arc like I did, put some duct tape over it
Disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the turbine discharge. The clamp will most likely be seized to the flanges requiring some creative leverage with a screwdriver/hammer, etc to get it loose from the flanges. Note - Another way: Loosen the 2 nuts at the cat or whatever is there. Take the downpipe clamp and y-pipe clamp off. The reason to loosen the bottom of the exhaust is only to make it easier to deal with everything. Get the exhaust downpipe off first and you'll see how to tackle the turbine inlet pipe
Disconnect the Y pipe from the turbine inlet. Ditto for removing the clamp from the flanges
Remove the two plastic nails that secure the plastic wire harness support directly above the turbo. The third nail does not have to be removed. Slide the support out from under the 3rd nail and wire it to the wiper up out of the way. To remove the nails, slide the tips of a needle nose under the head and pry up
Disconnect the wiring harness from the turbo vane actuator
Remove the bolts that secure the oil supply line to the top of the turbo, wire the line back out of the way. Cover the oil port in the turbo with tape to prevent contamination
Remove the three 10 mm bolts that secure the turbo to the pedestal. Two of the bolt shanks are in a horizontal position and are located on the bearing side of the scroll. The 3rd bolt is in a vertical position and is on the outlet side of the scroll and can be accessed with a 10 mm socket and short extension over the top of the Y pipe to turbo connection
A 10 mm box wrench works on the other two, a gearwrench makes it easier as one of the other posters said. The passenger side horizontal bolt on mine was almost finger loose, the other horizontal bolt was a little tighter and the vertical bolt on the back was tightest. I sprayed all three with PB a few hours before. As one of the other posters said, use 6 pts only to break them loose
The turbo will twist and come out, just remember how it came out and go back the same way. I usually rotate it 90 degrees so that the air inlet is on top or bottom. It is a lot easier than it looks
The turbo can be somewhat stuck to the pedestal so you may need to take a crow bar and carefully pry up between the pedestal and the bottom of the bearing center section around the oil drain tube to break it loose.
Now comes the fun part. You'll need to position yourself on top of the passenger side battery, radiator, etc to work that mother out from its perch on the passenger side
Once I had it on the bench I followed the FordDoctors.com cleaning procedure.
Check the tolerance once the turbo is out - The tolerance is measured in axial play (in and out) and there should be no more then .091mm (0.0036in)
Lowes has a similar tool to the 3M kit used in the article. You can chuck it up in your 3/8" drill. You may want to do the center section around the turbine mostly by hand with Scotchbrite and 320 wet or dry paper with WD40 so you won't risk hitting the turbine with the drill chuck. The unison plate cleaned up pretty easily.
For the vanes, just use the scotchbite pads and WD40. The scroll was the hardest and took the longest. It took a combination of the surfacing tool, wet-or-dry, Scotchbrite, WD40, brake cleaner to get it cleaned and polished. Getting around the pins and between the pins and the scroll is the hardest.
Keep each vane in its original postion just in case it had some wear, not sure this is necessary but it doesn't hurt.
When re-assembling, rub a light coat of anti-seize on the bearing surfaces between the unison plate and the center section, the surface of the scroll that the vanes ride against and the surface of the unison plate that the vanes ride against.
Also put it on the mating surfaces between the scroll and the center section in case you have to do this job again sometime. Also rub it on the inlet and outlet flanges and the inside of the flange clamps to also make it easier to get them off again if necessary.
Do not forget to replace the oil drain tube O-ring, theres no way you want to go thru this again due to a bad 50 cent O-ring.
Re-installing:
Look at everything that is underneath the turbo on the engine. Make sure none of the wiring harnesses are rubbing on anything (top of the driver side valve cover is a common place to see issues)
Wrestle that mother back on to its perch. Watch the drain tube and o-ring. You can put anti-seize on the mating surfaces between the turbo and the pedestal and on the turbo bolts. Some folks even put lock washers on the turbo bolts.
Start the bolts by hand before tighting any of them because most of the time they don't line up right off
When re-assembling, you must properly align the flange on the turbo (where both up-pipes join into the "Y" collector, right before the turbine inlet) or it will not spool.
Hook up the Y-pipe, downpipe, oil supply ( use a new gasket)
Clean the IC tube and boot with solvent, torque boot clamp to 96 in-lb
Assembly of the rest is the "reverse of the above", as they like to say in the manuals
#5
04-04-2009, 09:12 PM
Other turbo Info:
If you have problems w/ the rear bolt when removing the turbo:
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=567 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 425pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 20736" width=567><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>Get the rear bolt out (turbo removal)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/744705-rear-bolt-turbo-help.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>http://www.dieseltechmag.com/performance/newproducts.cfm?productID=132</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=567 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 425pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 20736" width=567><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>Turbo Changes over the model years</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>http://turbodieselforums.com/diesel_9.pdf
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=567 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 425pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 20736" width=567><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>6.0L TURBOCHARGER IMPROVEMENTS</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>MY03-MY06 TURBOCHARGER IMPROVEMENTS:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17 x:str="MY04 ">MY04 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>CHANGED TURBINE WHEEL: ADDED 3 FINS</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>CHANGED LOCATION OF REAR MOUNTING BOLT</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>CHANGED TURBOCHARGER MOUNTING BRACKET</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>ADDED EGR THROTTLE PLATE</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>INCREASED CONTROL VALVE SPOOL CLEARANCE (9)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17 x:str="MY05 ">MY05 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>CHANGED 2 CENTER HOUSING BEARINGS</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>INCREASED CONTROL VALVE SPOOL CLEARANCE W/SCREEN (13)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>DELETED EGR THROTTLE PLATE</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>ADDED SCOOP IN Y PIPE</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17 x:str="MY05-J2 ">MY05-J2 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>MODIFIED VANE SHAPE COMPRESSOR WHEEL</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>UPDATED CALIBRATION</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>CHANGED VGT CONNECTOR CLIP: PLASTIC SNAP (Part Number 3C3Z 14489 A)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>DELETED MAF ALL STATES W/EXCEPTION OF CA</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>CHANGED TURBOCHARGER MOUNTING BRACKET</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17 x:str="MY06 ">MY06 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>MACHINED RECESS DESIGN CENTER HOUSING</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Early 2006 models had turbo problems with tolerance. Garret revised the unison ring with a relief cut
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>Larger turbo Oil Drain Line (page 5)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>http://turbodieselforums.com/diesel_5.pdf</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=567 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 425pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 20736" width=567><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>Turbo TSB:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>TSB's\2008\TSB 08-16-13 Turbocharger Carbon Depostit Diagnosis and Service Tips.pdf</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>Turbo Video:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" height=17>mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech30_250k.wmv</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
If you have problems w/ the rear bolt when removing the turbo:
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=567 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 425pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 20736" width=567><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>Get the rear bolt out (turbo removal)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/744705-rear-bolt-turbo-help.html</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>http://www.dieseltechmag.com/performance/newproducts.cfm?productID=132</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=567 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 425pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 20736" width=567><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>Turbo Changes over the model years</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>http://turbodieselforums.com/diesel_9.pdf
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=567 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 425pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 20736" width=567><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>6.0L TURBOCHARGER IMPROVEMENTS</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>MY03-MY06 TURBOCHARGER IMPROVEMENTS:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17 x:str="MY04 ">MY04 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>CHANGED TURBINE WHEEL: ADDED 3 FINS</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>CHANGED LOCATION OF REAR MOUNTING BOLT</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>CHANGED TURBOCHARGER MOUNTING BRACKET</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>ADDED EGR THROTTLE PLATE</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>INCREASED CONTROL VALVE SPOOL CLEARANCE (9)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17 x:str="MY05 ">MY05 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>CHANGED 2 CENTER HOUSING BEARINGS</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>INCREASED CONTROL VALVE SPOOL CLEARANCE W/SCREEN (13)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>DELETED EGR THROTTLE PLATE</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>ADDED SCOOP IN Y PIPE</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17 x:str="MY05-J2 ">MY05-J2 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>MODIFIED VANE SHAPE COMPRESSOR WHEEL</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>UPDATED CALIBRATION</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>CHANGED VGT CONNECTOR CLIP: PLASTIC SNAP (Part Number 3C3Z 14489 A)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>DELETED MAF ALL STATES W/EXCEPTION OF CA</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17>CHANGED TURBOCHARGER MOUNTING BRACKET</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=567 height=17 x:str="MY06 ">MY06 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>MACHINED RECESS DESIGN CENTER HOUSING</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Early 2006 models had turbo problems with tolerance. Garret revised the unison ring with a relief cut
</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>Larger turbo Oil Drain Line (page 5)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>http://turbodieselforums.com/diesel_5.pdf</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=567 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 425pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 20736" width=567><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>Turbo TSB:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>TSB's\2008\TSB 08-16-13 Turbocharger Carbon Depostit Diagnosis and Service Tips.pdf</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>Turbo Video:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" height=17>mms://multimedia.ford.com/seopts/Tech30_250k.wmv</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
#6
04-04-2009, 09:13 PM
The turbo only comes out one way.https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...tall-pics.html Once off the pedestal slightly rotate left to right enough to get the intake side out.Once that comes out you have to rotate the bottom of the intake side up and lift it out.It is heavy and not as easy as it sounds because it's so heavy. Take your time and it will come.
#7
04-04-2009, 09:14 PM
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 713pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=951 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 425pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 20736" width=567><COL style="WIDTH: 288pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 14043" width=384><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>VGT relearn (from Brickie's earlier post - referencing blackhat620):</TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 288pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=384></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/635024-diablosport-predator-update-for-04-truck.html</TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 283.5pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=378><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 713pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 283.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=951 colSpan=2 height=378 x:str='KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT learn procedure
1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature.
(The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature)
2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module)
3. Turn on the headlights
4. Disconnect both batteries
5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this).
6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes
7. Turn off the headlights.
8. Re-connect batteries
9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep".
10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control.
11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle:
15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn"
its adaptive strategy. Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the
P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed. As for the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission
must re-learn your driving style and loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was
re-flashed.'>KAM (keep-alive-memory) reset & VGT learn procedure
1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature.
(The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature)
2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module)
3. Turn on the headlights
4. Disconnect both batteries
5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this).
6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes
7. Turn off the headlights.
8. Re-connect batteries
9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep".
10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control.
11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle:
15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn"
its adaptive strategy. Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the
P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed. As for the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission
must re-learn your driving style and loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was
re-flashed.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
1. Drive the truck until the engine and transmission have reached normal operating temperature.
(The VGT learn procedure requires that the oil and coolant temperatures be at normal operating temperature)
2. Flash truck back to stock (Only need to do this if running a tuner or module)
3. Turn on the headlights
4. Disconnect both batteries
5. Short out + to - battery cables to each other (Make sure both batteries are disconnected before doing this).
6. Let truck sit like this for 10-minutes
7. Turn off the headlights.
8. Re-connect batteries
9. Cycle the key to the run position twice. Pause in the “ON” position each time until the wait to start lamp goes out (minimum 5-seconds) and pause in the “OFF” position each time for 10-seconds to be sure the PCM has "gone to sleep".
10. Start the truck and let it idle for a minimum of 5-minutes at normal operating temperature. This allows the PCM to learn the EGR valve closed position value. Also you will likely hear the turbo pitch change several times during this period as the PCM learns the necessary duty cycles for accurate VGT control.
11. Complete the road test Drive Cycle:
15 miles of mixed driving (*should* be enough in most cases) to allow the PCM to "re-learn"
its adaptive strategy. Note: Anytime the batteries are disconnected, the PCM will throw the
P1000 code until the “Drive Cycle” is completed. As for the Tow/Haul mode, the transmission
must re-learn your driving style and loads hauled again as this was cleared when the truck was
re-flashed.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Trending Topics
#8
04-04-2009, 09:15 PM
Definition of "Turbo Fart"
"Turbo fart" is caused by excess boost pressure on the cold side of the turbo. Since the VGT turbo does not use a waste gate, instead it controls the amount of boost by changing the size of the impeller blades. During hard excelleration, when you chop the throttle the engine & turbo are running at high boost levels, but the turbo vanes cannot respond quick enough to the decreased amount of boost need when the throttle is chopped (lifted quickly). So the excess inlet air has to go some where, and it backs up in the inlet side of the air intake and escapes out the air box.
"Turbo fart" is caused by excess boost pressure on the cold side of the turbo. Since the VGT turbo does not use a waste gate, instead it controls the amount of boost by changing the size of the impeller blades. During hard excelleration, when you chop the throttle the engine & turbo are running at high boost levels, but the turbo vanes cannot respond quick enough to the decreased amount of boost need when the throttle is chopped (lifted quickly). So the excess inlet air has to go some where, and it backs up in the inlet side of the air intake and escapes out the air box.
#10
04-04-2009, 09:16 PM
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=567 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 425pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 20736" width=567><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=17>If your vgt is not working (thus causing turbo to stick), you can clean the vgt actuator:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 25.5pt" height=34><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 25.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=34>http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16157&highlight=Clean+vgt+actuato r&page=2</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 120pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=160><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; BORDER-TOP: windowtext; BORDER-LEFT: windowtext 0.5pt solid; WIDTH: 425pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 0.5pt solid; HEIGHT: 120pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: yellow" width=567 height=160>CAUTION: The VGT actuator valve is sensitive to contamination. All work areas must be clean before starting this procedure. Do not allow contamination to enter the valve ports, cam follower, or turbocharger housing. Handle the VGT actuator by the solenoid body only. Do not attempt to wipe oil off the valve. Do not let the valve come in contact with materials that could contaminate the valve mechanism.
CAUTION: Use only the Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner PM-2 to spray the actuator valve. Brake cleaner or other solvents may damage the actuator valve.
Be careful when you clean it. But check the oil supply tube. The old one is the stainless braided center section. The new one is the solid tube.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
CAUTION: Use only the Carburetor Tune-Up Cleaner PM-2 to spray the actuator valve. Brake cleaner or other solvents may damage the actuator valve.
Be careful when you clean it. But check the oil supply tube. The old one is the stainless braided center section. The new one is the solid tube.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
#11
04-04-2009, 09:28 PM
For those who do not have the time to follow all the links, here is a summarization of how our turbo works:
The turbo has a set of moveable vanes in the turbine housing that change the flow of the exhaust through the turbo. These vanes are internal to the turbine housing and are mounted around the outside circumference of the housing. Changing vane position either restricts or increases the amount of exhaust gases allowed into the turbine housing. Each individual vane has a tab on it that attaches to a ring linking all the vanes together. When the ring is moved, all of the vanes move a corresponding amount. A linear actuator attaches to the ring. Actuator position is changed by varying the amount of pressurized engine oil applied to either side of the actuator. The flow and placement of the oil is controlled by the VGT solenoid which is in turn controlled by the PCM.
The VGT solenoid is a pulse width modulated (PWM) solenoid. Increasing the current duty cycle to the VGT solenoid increases boost.
The solenoid routes oil to one side of the linear actuator forcing the actuator to move, which in turn moves the ring linking the vanes.
The vanes move to an open position allowing more exhaust gases into the turbine housing. More exhaust flow increases turbine speed with a resultant increase in boost.
The converse is also true. When the current duty cycle is decreased, boost levels also decrease.
The PCM monitors a variety of sensors to determine how to duty cycle the VGT solenoid.
In closed loop, the PCM uses exhaust backpressure, manifold and barometric pressures, accelerator pedal position, and engine RPM and calculated load for turbo control.
Changes in parameters for each of these sensors will result in a variation in VGT duty cycle. Higher load demands more duty cycle.
This is how the PCM controls the turbo boost to match engine load and requirements.
The turbo has a set of moveable vanes in the turbine housing that change the flow of the exhaust through the turbo. These vanes are internal to the turbine housing and are mounted around the outside circumference of the housing. Changing vane position either restricts or increases the amount of exhaust gases allowed into the turbine housing. Each individual vane has a tab on it that attaches to a ring linking all the vanes together. When the ring is moved, all of the vanes move a corresponding amount. A linear actuator attaches to the ring. Actuator position is changed by varying the amount of pressurized engine oil applied to either side of the actuator. The flow and placement of the oil is controlled by the VGT solenoid which is in turn controlled by the PCM.
The VGT solenoid is a pulse width modulated (PWM) solenoid. Increasing the current duty cycle to the VGT solenoid increases boost.
The solenoid routes oil to one side of the linear actuator forcing the actuator to move, which in turn moves the ring linking the vanes.
The vanes move to an open position allowing more exhaust gases into the turbine housing. More exhaust flow increases turbine speed with a resultant increase in boost.
The converse is also true. When the current duty cycle is decreased, boost levels also decrease.
The PCM monitors a variety of sensors to determine how to duty cycle the VGT solenoid.
In closed loop, the PCM uses exhaust backpressure, manifold and barometric pressures, accelerator pedal position, and engine RPM and calculated load for turbo control.
Changes in parameters for each of these sensors will result in a variation in VGT duty cycle. Higher load demands more duty cycle.
This is how the PCM controls the turbo boost to match engine load and requirements.
#12
04-04-2009, 09:37 PM
Here is a past Broadcast message on the turbo:
Flutter Noise on Deceleration:
Some 03-06 trucks may exhibit a fluttering noise from the air filter assembly on deceleration. This is a characteristic of the engine and posses no problems with the engine or turbo. No repair should be attempted. Broadcast Messages 1046, 4818
This condition should be intermittent and typically occurs when the accelerator is quickly released after a hard acceleration. If the flutter occurs at every deceleration, under load or at upshift on acceleration, suspect a sticking VGTurbo actuator or turbo vane ring.
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 288pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=384 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 288pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 14043" width=384><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 288pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=384 height=17>Typical DTC's that indicate Turbo Problems:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 25.5pt" height=34><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 25.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=34>P0299, P0478, P2262, P2263
Note:
Stuck turbo can cause EGR codes but a bad EGR can not cause turbo codes
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Here is a good past thread on turbo troubleshooting:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-low-rpms.html
Flutter Noise on Deceleration:
Some 03-06 trucks may exhibit a fluttering noise from the air filter assembly on deceleration. This is a characteristic of the engine and posses no problems with the engine or turbo. No repair should be attempted. Broadcast Messages 1046, 4818
This condition should be intermittent and typically occurs when the accelerator is quickly released after a hard acceleration. If the flutter occurs at every deceleration, under load or at upshift on acceleration, suspect a sticking VGTurbo actuator or turbo vane ring.
<TABLE style="WIDTH: 288pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=384 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 288pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 14043" width=384><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; WIDTH: 288pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=384 height=17>Typical DTC's that indicate Turbo Problems:</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 25.5pt" height=34><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; HEIGHT: 25.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=34>P0299, P0478, P2262, P2263
Note:
Stuck turbo can cause EGR codes but a bad EGR can not cause turbo codes
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Here is a good past thread on turbo troubleshooting:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-low-rpms.html
#13
04-04-2009, 09:57 PM
#14
04-05-2009, 05:31 AM
For those that are considering some turbo upgrade options, here are a few threads to read through:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...t-non-vgt.html
Innovative diesel's new compounds - TheDieselGarage.com
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ent-turbo.html
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ad.php?t=74087
Ceramics and Heat Shields:
http://www.atpwrap.com/
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ad.php?t=74154
Aftermarket Turbos:
BD is just coming out w/ a VGT Turbo (I believe)
Innovative Diesel
River City Diesel
Industrial Injection
Aurora 3000 or 5000 - non VGT Turbo
Compound Turbo (BWD - Black Widow Diesel and others)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...t-non-vgt.html
Innovative diesel's new compounds - TheDieselGarage.com
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ent-turbo.html
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ad.php?t=74087
Ceramics and Heat Shields:
http://www.atpwrap.com/
http://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ad.php?t=74154
Aftermarket Turbos:
BD is just coming out w/ a VGT Turbo (I believe)
Innovative Diesel
River City Diesel
Industrial Injection
Aurora 3000 or 5000 - non VGT Turbo
Compound Turbo (BWD - Black Widow Diesel and others)