I've finally made up my mind. I'm looking at dropped leafs suspension w/ stock bar(similar to AX's setup), 351W w/ aftermarket motor mounts(Hot Rods Classic Truck Parts), manual tranny, 3.25 gear 9", and Toyota PS box for steering. My question is, would there be any interference or clearance issues using the Toy box w/ motor mounts or 351W headers? This a 48 F1.
I suspect no, but I wanna make sure before cutting off the original motor mounts...Thanks.

 

I have a toyota box in a 49 F-1 with a C****y motor. I had to offset the engine & trans one inch to the right to clear the ram horn exhaust manifold. I have another 49 F-1 with the same motor and headers. It won't fit without a lot of offset. The worm is on top of the sector shaft compared to the stock box with the worm on the bottom. It is taller than the stock box because of this. The width is about the same as the stock box. Just some thing to look at before you jump into it.
Don

 

Thanks Don. I guess I could be in for a rude awakening. I figure I'll have to mount the toyota box first and mock up the engine after. Didn't wanna jump in with both feet.

 

The 53-56 frame is a little wider so that may make a little difference. On mine (CSB) there was plenty of clearance for the box, the only point of interference was between the fluid return hose and the rear outlet header pipe on the last cylinder, but using Gotta Show PS hoses with their banjo fittings solved that problem. The 351 is a narrower motor. I'd consider center outlet block hugger headers if they will clear the mounts or high rear outlet ones. You have plenty of room to offset the engine a couple inches if needed.

 

thanks Ax, I just checked out gottashow's website. Sounds like the right fix.

 

i plan on useing the toyota set up on my 49f1 with a 302.has anybody had this set up and did you have to off set the engine.

 

I think that any clearance problems have more to do with the headers chosen than the engine block. I would look for headers that exited under the center exhaust ports close to the block or ones that come up from the ports to valve cover height and exit behind the heads.

 

Looking at Sanderson's website and also S&S headers there should be several header options that may not even require offsetting the engine. From what I understand Sanderson is especially good at working with you to come up with a header solution.

 

May I tag on to this thread with a related question? I have a 56 F-100 with original 272 motor. Will the Toy ps fit my truck eaisly? What Toy donor do I look for? Is there another PS setup that works?
Thanks, Glen

 

Glen, The answers to all your questions are in this article (that can also be found under the articles and specs tab just under the header at the top of this page):
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...60_Trucks.html

 

Thanks
I am new to this forum and not sure yet how to navigate. Hated to tailgate on someone's else's question. The article helps greatly.
Glen

 

Thanks,
I live in Waynesville, NC. Have just bought a 56 F-100 want to keep it close to original while still giving it some needed updates.
Glen

 

Cool! I'm familiar with your neck of the woods, we go to Deal's Gap with the Miata group.

IMHO you are doing the best thing, keep what's good, replace what's not mechanically sound. They two weakest links are the steering box and the front brakes. The beam axle can be made to ride and handle well. When we drove Gracie home from NM we went thru the smokies on I40 at night with a sloppy steering gearbox and ram style power assist that made it a "fun" ride. The Toyota swap was the first thing I did when we got home. PM or email me if you have any specific questions I can help with, and welcome to the forum and the insanity if I haven't said it before!

 

no shortage of insanity here. This forum, either. Just to note, I'll get an idea on headers, once I get the engine in place, after the steering, after the front springs, after the knuckles, after the frame blasting, after the....