yes i was getting the two mixed up. thank you i will take a look tomorrow

 

It is critically important for you to understand that the part you put the key in is NOT the ignition switch. That is the lock cylinder. The ignition switch sits on top of the steering column down close to the firewall.

Press the turn signal lever towards the dash to see if you have tilt wheel. Most Lariats did.

 

Am I looking at the correct area? Not sure what to tighten

 

When you turn the ignition key it moves the actuator(rod, square rod) back and forth. The ignition switch is at the forward end(toward the engine) of the actuator rod. I see what I THINK is the actuator rod in your picture. It is just to the left of that big philips head(four cornered) screw.

If I am correct here, you will have to drop the steering column to access the screws to adjust the ignition switch. It is easy enough to drop the steering column(2 or 4 bolts to remove) but you have to remove some of the plastic cowling on and under the dash to gain access to the bolts. Also so the steering column can drop down.

I have worked on my '88 F150 in this manner replacing the actuator rod twice, but I don't work on this stuff every day so I don't remember exactly.

 

Turns out the ignition switch was not clipped in all the way. That fixed it.

this truck has sat since 2010 and has a jasper engine put in around 20,000 ago according to the paperwork. The body has 145 or so.

When I try to drive it forward or reverse there is a hesitation of about 3-4 seconds before it will move. I hear something engage and then it goes.

any ideas?

 

I'm just curious, did you have to drop the dash to get the ignition switch squared away?

As far as your transmission, it looks like you have the AOD transmission looking at your picture under #18. The C6 and the E40D were also available in that truck per rockauto parts site.

I assume you checked the fluid level in the transmission? After the 3-4 seconds hesitation in taking off, if you stop the truck and don't shift gears and try to move again will you get the 3-4 seconds hesitation again?

A SUGGESTION. I would start a new thread with the proper heading about your transmission. The reason is there are a lot of guys on this site that know a lot more than I do about transmissions and they probably wouldn't click on this thread with it's heading.

 

trans needed fluid, that problem is solved.

Still chasing electrical gremlins. I have trouble keeping the battery charged under load and the battery meter always reads on the left side of normal.

There will be times that after i drive the truck will not start up again, if i jump it it fires no problem. If i take the battery out and put it in my jeep the jeep starts right up. The battery cables look fine and I changed the belt.

Any ideas? Also the ignition switch dosent seem to seat 100% all the way is that an issue?

 

I don't think your ignition switch would cause the battery charging problem. Does your truck keep going without having to put the battery on a charger? Does your volts gauge have numbers on it or just a normal range?

 

I cant recall specifically. I know Ive got the dummy gauges with no tach. The truck will eventually run the battery down so much that it will not start the f150. It will still start the jeep. Also there have been times where i turned off the truck, and then it wouldnt restart. Then i waited 5-10 minutes and it kicked over and started. This truck does a have a jasper engine in it

 

I would get the alternator tested. Also take a close look at the connectors where they hook onto the alternator. If a pigtail with new connectors was never installed the connectors would almost certainly be bad.

 

The actual switches from this generation of Fords have a tendency to separate.

Think pulling the top of a sandwich off to look inside & not pressing it back down. I've seen two 90's Fords do this personally with accompanying weird electrical issues including the problem you initially described.

I'd pull it out completely for a look. Won't cost anything but time if its not the problem.

(edit, if it is the problem, a zip tie will sometimes fix it for a while)