Alright so I've ready plenty of electrolysis conversations on here and my head is still spinning. I've gathered the basic that two metals that are unlike each other = bad for longevity. However, most of the discussion was complaints about quickly wearing aluminum heater cores used with stock copper/brass radiator.

My project however will be using the Champion 3 core radiator, which is aluminum. I don't want my heater core to wear out super fast though, so I've been shopping for NOS on eBay since you can't buy copper/brass heater cores in any stores now.

But that made me wonder, is it better to use the aluminum heater core since I'm using the aluminum radiator?

 

IDK on making the heater core and radiator material the same.

I do know that an iron engine, copper heater core and aluminum radiator can get along just fine. My hotrod has run that combo for nearly 15 years and my Dent for 3 years. No issues and the radiator holds up fine.

Good well maintained coolant helps. I like and use Prestone extended life universal and keep it pretty fresh.

Good setup and maintenance of grounds helps also in preventing electrolysis. The Dent has an engine ground, core support ground and frame ground.

With good coolant and grounds I would not be too afraid of an aluminum heater core if copper/brass is not available.

 

Yeah I'll be freshening up some of the grounds while I have some extra room in the engine bay.




Really appreciate the reply, I read so many debates about this stuff on other threads my head started to spin. Finding a heater core that isn't aluminum, which was initially my goal, is quite the task I've found. NOS parts on ebay are in excess of $100, aluminum from any of the parts stores are $30ish.

 

As a super scientific estimate, given good maintenance, coolant, grounding, etc. you will probably be worrying about lack of propulsion in your flying car before electrolysis of the radiator core becomes a problem.

 

Cooper heater core you ask? ranger429 is the source for the below info.

For anyone looking for a brass/copper core Advanced Auto part number 398304 is the correct one. It is also the same core that fits early, 68'ish mustangs. Laurel Mountain Mustang is where I bought mine from. Part number just in case it is needed in the future:
For A/C 18476-1A
For non A/C 18476-2
http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com...-slash-c-brass
Also NAPA, but makes sure and ask are they aluminum or copper?
Copper is what you want.
Heater core, high output heater C6OZ-18476-B
Antique Auto Supply, Arlington, TX (817) 275=2381
Wesley Obsolete Parts, Liberty, KY (606) 787-5293

Dennis Carpenter, Concord, NC also has 1 but they have it listed under C60Z-18476-B, the third digit is "zero" instead of the correct letter "O". (704) 786-8139

Additional C6OZ-18476-B heater core applications: 1966/70 Falcon w/o A/C / 1966/72 Fairlane/Torino w/o A/C / 1971/73 Mustang/Cougar w/o A/C

Heater core w/ factory A/C or hi-low comfort vent system D3TZ-18476-A

Std Heater core D3TZ-18476-C

All this info has been right here the whole time. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14696854 FYI lauralmountainmustangs has a bad rep on the web...so shop carefully.

 

Houston Dave: Got a good laugh from that one!

Yeah, I knew the info was there, its quite old.

Napa no longer stocks them in copper anywhere I could find, Advanced Auto part number provided is for A/C trucks and I can't find a matching one for standard heat, no A/C. I checked about 2 months ago when I started planning this project.

Laurel Mountain Mustang is out of business and has been for probably a year or more, which is sad because they were based near me and I have a mustang as well. Their reputation did suck though, so I guess the market has spoken.

Dennis Carpenter only has the A/C heater core. C&G parts shows the copper one on their website, but has a disclaimer that since Jan of 2015 they haven't been getting many that are still copper. So I'm not sure what that means if I placed an order with them.

I appreciate the Ford part numbers though, I was actually trying to find it on the core I removed and wasn't able to. I'll use those and see if I can call around to dealerships and find one. The problem that I was reading about was that dealerships are now selling them in aluminum but using the same old part numbers but you aren't getting the copper.

 

Well glad at least I helped somehow. I just talked to my local O'Reilly's guy... nothing but aluminium available thru them either. Glad I have a spar on the shelf that is copper. Wow I must of got that one along time ago.

 

I'm going to keep this one so that I can get it re-cored someday if necessary. I haven't completely bailed on the copper idea, but it is looking a bit grim.

 

Use an sacrificial anode in the radiator.. we use them on boats all the time and they are also common for the fleet market... easy peasey

 

The electrolysis issue between two dissimilar metals becomes much more significant when the two metals are in contact with each other. I'd probably be much more concerned with the pH level of the coolant. Some are acidic enough to make a battery. The aluminum components seem quite vulnerable to this adverse condition.

 

Didn't know much about sacrificial anodes as I don't own a boat where they seem to be most common, but it looks like a great idea. They sell them on radiator caps and also as thread ins to replace the drain petcock. I think for the low price I'm definitely going to add one, can't hurt.

 

That is exactly the problem. The PH level in the antifreeze causes the problem. Not the fact of dissimilar metals in the coolant system.


Sacrificial anodes should not really be needed in an automotive cooling system as the PH level should be neutral any way. Zinc sacrificial anodes are used on boats and structures in water especially salt water as the water acts like an electrolyte. Zinc is a less noble metal than iron/steel and will be attacked before surrounding iron/steel is thus protecting it from corrosion.

Using a zinc anode in an automotive cooling system will do nothing to protect aluminium. As aluminium is less noble than zinc. The Aluminium components will corrode before the zinc anode will. To protect aluminium you need to use magnesium anodes.

Adding a zinc anode to protect the aluminium in your cooling system is 100% snake oil.

Instead spend the money on PH test strips and test the coolant PH when you check the oil. There are PH adjusters (up or down) available for cooling systems.

Coolant PH strips can had from
One test strip for all radiator fluids
or
CoolTrak Coolant Test Strips
or
Product Category Page -
or
https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produ...?code=G1164-EA


The above can be found on Ebay, Amazon and of course at Summit.