Well, the 53-5 project truck has hit another snag...The owner finally found a suitable 9 inch rear to replace the failing stocker...And it is engine time!

The engine we are using is a 61 223, (Or is that 232?I'm a lil bit dyslexic so I don't remember) OHV 6 with the manifolds on the drivers side. It was running just fine with not much smoke if any when we test ran it last year. I was hoping to regasket it and clean the outside up and put it back in the truck, even had the flywheel machined and a new clutch ready.

Yesterday I finally had the chance to get it up on the stand for the regasketing job. I pulled the valve cover after removing the water pump and flushing out the cooling system, (It was pretty clean!). Sitting there on the head by the valve springs were a bunch of valve stem seal pieces. There was a lot of hardened oil sludge on the valve cover and more crispy oil on everything in sight.

This is supposed to be a low dollar build - and the goal is a safe and solid daily driver on nice days. (Not on the interstates..)

Has anyone had any success cleaning an engine like this without a full rebuild? Or, like I suspect, am I in for a full rebuild and more $$$???

If we knew of a good 223 or 262 OHV engine somewhat locally (Near Albany NY) I might be able to convince the owner to go that way.

When I was a kid I rebuilt my VW engine and pressure washed the crankcase assembly with the crank and rods still in it...flushed it a bunch with kerosene, etc, and put it back together with new heads and jugs, without an issue. I do not know if I could be so lucky with this one.....

Edit: We are cleaning it and crossing our fingers, see below.

 

If you're popping the head to do the head gasket anyway, just disassemble the head and get it all vatted, and all oil passages brushed out. Top-end oiling was a sore point on those engines. Pay particular attention to the oil feed tube and its rubber seals. Check the rockers for excess wear.

Did you check oil pressure when you ran it? (with a gauge)

 

If you are going to pull the head, condition there would be your guide as to where, how far to go into the engine. Does the truck have an oil pressure gauge and what was the pressure. If I had the engine out and on the stand I would certainly drop the pan and plastigage the bearings while cleaning it up while in there. Heed Ross's suggestions about the top end oiling. Ask if you don't understand.
It is common to find broken valve seals in an old engine.
Get us some pictures and have fun with it.

 

Well.after a lot of scraping, scrubbing,, and wire brushing, I feel a little better about the motor. The sludge hadn't hardened as much as it appeared. Just using a screwdriver on the mess underneath the valve cover, I was seeing bare cast iron at the first scrape..It hadn't gotten as crispy as it looked. I actually couldn't pull several of the pushrods until I soaked the crud a little while.I ended up using a piece of 1/2 rod and a hammer to clear those passageways.Tomorrow I will attack the passageways with a gun cleaning set. The oil pickup, side and valve cover, pan and some other pieces are going to the machine shop to get cleaned up.Otherwise it'll take all week just to clean stuff.

I managed to get the front oil tube out easily, but the rear one was a bit stubborn...It was also the only one with any type of seal, and only at the bottom. Is it a press fit into the rocker stand or should there be an o ring there too?

One good thing that was a result of all the solvents and having the engine upside down was that the distributor finally got unstuck and now we might be able to adjust timing.

The owner doesn't want to pop the head for fear of it becoming a huge money pit (Like it isn't already!!) so I think all the covers and the pan will be all that I remove..

I'd like to see the head off and rebuilt but we are only replacing the seals for now. Once all the cleanup is done, he has a Ford master tech buddy of his coming over to plastigauge and give his opinion on the rest..I'm qualified to do it but a second pair of eyes won't hurt.

When I get time to download some pictures I will, at least this time I have been taking them.

 

There is A D ring seal at the lower end of the long tube where it fits into the block. No doubt the right size O ring would work just fine. That seal that gave you problems is known to harden and fail.

 

Thanks, Ray. So is the long tube the feed and the front tube a drain? And the one seal is all there is with no seal on the front tube?

and Ross, no we did not use a gauge...We just ran it before we pulled it to see if it would overheat or leak anywhere...It ran well enough, even with a set of burnt points and some weird vacuum line routing. The truck it was in was a truck that was quickly slammed together and boogied to sell, and the seller didn't do anything he didn't have to do, like clean the motor before he painted it, etc. It is being rebuilt with most of the body parts from other trucks, and a new 9 inch rear to replace the incredibly rusty original. (Rusty INSIDE!)

I did notice a frozen heat riser flapper...and one of the bolts holding the two manifolds together was missing (Maybe broken off, I did not have time to check it) We were thinking of getting the manifolds planed, as a set. I wonder if maybe it would be better to split them and fix the flapper and bolt problem...It will be a warm weather truck, but with the flap stuck closed, I would think warm up would be a bit delayed.

 

223 I-6: 1954/64 F100/700 & Ford full sized Passenger Cars.

262 I-6: 1961/64 C550/600 & F500/600; 1963/64 F100/250 2WD

 

Thanks Number guy.. It stinks not being able to remember numbers (At least the correct ones!) (I just noticed I had it right earlier in the same post. )

 

Honestly it wouldn't take much more money to re-ring it and replace the valve seals. I know I would do that....Just my 2cents

 

I agree totally but it isn't my call. I have the engine all cleaned up now, and am waiting for some parts to come back from the machine shop.

We are replacing the valve seals in place.

My normal procedure on something like this would to be a quick hone on the cylinders, and as you say, rering and regasket...I have a feeling this guy isn't so certain that the 6 will be adequate so he doesn't want to pour any serious money into it.

 

Well, between the not so happy main bearings and a little convincing, the owner has relented and now has authorized a budget refreshing, including removing the head for some valve work. He might need a crank, we will find out soon. At least now I'm working on a clean(er) engine, so all the work so far wasn't wasted at all.

I think the only parts he won't have rebuilt or replaced by the end will be the cab, the way it is going.

Such is life when you watch fast and loud too much.

 

Well, it cleaned up nice anyhow.




Yummy!




Maintenance?? We don't need no stinkin oil changes!




Casting Number ---




Pretty ugly underneath




No, that isn't a screen you see.....it is jello oil!

 

Could not have been getting much oil to the moving parts.