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Ok, here's the story; I have an 82 F150 2WD, 300-6 with oil leaks like Sadam leaving Kuwait. Oil pan, head, and rear main leak. I go through about a quart every 500 miles and leave puddles everywhere. I have also had to re-direct the breather tube from my oil cap to a jug so as to not turn my air filter into an oil filter with all the blow by pressure.
I have replaced one broken push rod, one lifter, valve cover gasket and lifter cover gasket. The truck fires on all six and is very dependable (a daily driver). She does range from mid to upper level oil pressure on the gauge.
A buddy who is a mechanic said don't fix the gaskets, I have too much blow by past the rings and I'll just be throwing good money after bad.
At what level of compression do you say re-build or crate vs. new gaskets? I plan to drive this truck for as long as I breathe, eventually will re-build or crate, but would rather wait a couple years. In Mississippi A/C is also something of a priority and it doesn't work.
Not a pressing problem now but I need to develop a game plan!!!
PS. I get slight rod knock going up hill in overdrive at 65 mph.
Is your PVC valve and the hose to it in good shape? That alone will cause it to blow oil into the air cleaner, I know that from experience. If there's any question just replace both the hose and PVC valve, they're cheap. The knock going up hill could be what we used to call labor knock. In other words the timing is off or the advance isn't working properly. Nothing against your friend but I would check it out as best I could before I thru in the towel.
Do what kedwinh said regarding checking it all out.
Change the oil using an oil "for high mileage vehicles". It has additives to help soften old gaskets thereby reducing oil leakage. This might buy you some additional time.
Did you thoroughly clean the engine after replacing the valve cover and lifter cover gasket? I ask because sometimes leakage from these areas is quite messy and drips down looking to be coming from the rear main or oil pan.
I was under the impression that the part which connects to my air cleaner is merely an elbow and not a pcv valve. I will look into that after work. The tube connecting the oil cap to the elbow at the air cleaner is ok. Is the elbow on the cap a valve?
I will try the high mileage filter, I had never given them consideration before, thanks.
As for cleaning the engine after my lifter and valve cover gasket replacements I only used the spray can, soak, garden hose cleaning method. I really do need to pressure wash it.
The pvc valve is inserted in a grommet on top of the valve cover near the firewall. It has a large rubber hose routed to the intake manifold tree or base of the carburetor. The tube connected to the oil fill cap is so filtered air can be drawn into the engine [make-up air] as the pvc valve allows vapors to be drawn out of the engine to the intake to be burned.
I have also had to re-direct the breather tube from my oil cap to a jug so as to not turn my air filter into an oil filter with all the blow by pressure.
check that PVC valve. If your blowing oil up into the breather then you got too much pressure in your crankcase. Like stated above, this should be sucking air...not blowing.
It could indeed be due to blow-by, if bad enough it can overwhelm the PCV and still cause a pressure build up.
Definately check out your timing as well. Knocking under load mean she may be to advanced. As your RPM goes up, the spark needs to be advanced so the combustion process can take place at the optimum time. Think of it this way if you hunt at all. You have to lead it off if it's moving. The faster whatever you're aiming at is moving...the more you need to lead it off to get them to meet..To a certain extent. If the timing gets too advanced you can develop a knock as you are trying to fire the mixture too soon.
Last edited by 82f100460; Apr 5, 2012 at 08:04 PM.
Reason: edit to explanation
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