2015 SCREW 6.7 4X4

first off, I'd like to get behind the left'most dash panel to access the wiring to the instrument panel dimmer switch: seems all the dash removal talk & videos are either of dissimilar dashes, dissimilar trucks (150's) or related to removing the stereo, which is on the opposite side of where I'd like to access.

second, initially, I was contemplating mounting my volt meter in front of/to the inside top of that little, seemingly useless compartment to the right of the steering wheel, about knee level. upon removal of the "compartment, I found a wiring connector attached to the rear of it: no terminals, but as if it were simply a storage spot for some unknown to me accessory that would take the place of the compartment.

tyia

Jeffro

 

The wire you found attached to the back of the little "compartment" controls the passenger airbag. You can purchase a switch to replace the "compartment" to turn on/off the airbag. Reason not included on crew cab is you have a rear seat and can place passengers ni rear that might be hurt should the passenger airbag deploy.

Part number of the switch is BC3Z-14B268-A.

 

Do a google search using the term 'super duty dash squeak'. Someone's posted how to track down and fix a squeak on the left-hand side of the steering wheel that involves getting behind the dash.

If I remember correctly, you have to take off the driver's side rubber door seal first, and then remove the side panel. Once those two are off, you can pull the front-facing dash pieces (they're not bolted in). I may be missing some steps, so it's best if you search on google and/or google images before pulling things off.

Hope that helps.

 

maybe my googlefu is weak, but the only threads/videos I find for this search is for prior model years that don't have the switches mounted in one solid piece of trim & none of them include anything regarding removal of the bolt at the bottom of the silver plastic pice, so therefore, there is no useful information in any of the links for that search

 

well, thanks to everyone that helped, but after messing with the wiring for a bit I decided to jsut say "intercourse it" and hook the volt meter up to an upfitter..easier than trying to get to the differ switch wires & only had to make one electrical connection (I don't consider the ground wire an electrical connection)

works like a champ, plus, if I get tired of the blue light, I'll just shut the dang thing off

 

There are two wires that are in the bundle near the upfitter and pto wires.

there is a white w/blue stripe that is fused at 10a and is switched power...this wire might solve your problem instead of using an upfitter switch.