Front Blower Question
#1
Front Blower Question
Hello all.
I just replaced the front blower motor on my 2003 excursion because it was not pushing any air. The new motor is now venting air in the front, but it seams like it is stuck on like low. It is not blowing very hard at all.
I know the next step is to replace the resistor (the part number on the part is 3C3H-19E624-AA and crosses to 6C3Z19E624AA on some other parts sites). See the attached images.
My uncle is a mechanic and told me to check for 12 volts at the motor connector which I got. So my first question is doesn't that mean the resistor is good?
He also recomend grounding out a pin 4 on the resistor connector and then check to see if the fan blew at full throttle. He looked it up and told me:
Pin1 Yellow / red
Pin2 Green / white
Pin3 Orange / black
Pin4 Orange / black (but a thicker gauge wire)
Pin5 Black
Can someone look at the pic I sent (resitor-conector.jpg )of the connector and tell me which pin that is to be sure? (love you Uncle but don't want to blow it up!)
Another question is I live in Miami and have NO need for auto climate control. The AC is always on high even in winter. I use the heater once maybe for 2 mornings all winter long. Can I replace it with a cheaper resistor? Is there such an animal?
Thanks in advance for all your help.
Mitch
Miami
I just replaced the front blower motor on my 2003 excursion because it was not pushing any air. The new motor is now venting air in the front, but it seams like it is stuck on like low. It is not blowing very hard at all.
I know the next step is to replace the resistor (the part number on the part is 3C3H-19E624-AA and crosses to 6C3Z19E624AA on some other parts sites). See the attached images.
My uncle is a mechanic and told me to check for 12 volts at the motor connector which I got. So my first question is doesn't that mean the resistor is good?
He also recomend grounding out a pin 4 on the resistor connector and then check to see if the fan blew at full throttle. He looked it up and told me:
Pin1 Yellow / red
Pin2 Green / white
Pin3 Orange / black
Pin4 Orange / black (but a thicker gauge wire)
Pin5 Black
Can someone look at the pic I sent (resitor-conector.jpg )of the connector and tell me which pin that is to be sure? (love you Uncle but don't want to blow it up!)
Another question is I live in Miami and have NO need for auto climate control. The AC is always on high even in winter. I use the heater once maybe for 2 mornings all winter long. Can I replace it with a cheaper resistor? Is there such an animal?
Thanks in advance for all your help.
Mitch
Miami
#2
When your fan is on lowest setting.. it works. Right?
Turn the fan speed up 1 notch, does it stay at the same speed, or does it turn off completely.?
I would buy an aftermarket resistor (non Ford), plug it in and see if it works. IF it doesn't, pull it out right away and return it.
For using MAX A/C there is also a modification that shuts off flow to the heater core, which should give you noticeably colder air. http://www.dieselsite.com/maxacassis...200373l-1.aspx
Turn the fan speed up 1 notch, does it stay at the same speed, or does it turn off completely.?
I would buy an aftermarket resistor (non Ford), plug it in and see if it works. IF it doesn't, pull it out right away and return it.
For using MAX A/C there is also a modification that shuts off flow to the heater core, which should give you noticeably colder air. http://www.dieselsite.com/maxacassis...200373l-1.aspx
#3
#5
#6
A stuck temperature blend door cannot cause this symptom. Similarly, if any of the other doors were stuck, you'd still have normal air volume though the system, but it would exit or enter from the wrong place.
You do not have a resistor pack, you have the Blower Speed Control module (BSC) that is part of the EATC climate control. You cannot use the less expensive resistors unless you also convert from automatic to manual control heads.
In any event, it doesn't sound like the blower motor or its control electronics are the issue anyway. Most likely, you have an airflow restriction that's causing a severely reduced amount of air volume to move through the plenum. Most common causes are: Cabin air filter (if equipped), dirty evaporator core, or a piece of debris (plastic grocery bag, for example) has gotten sucked into the system.
If you have a cabin air filter, check it first. Then, pull the blower motor out and look at the evaporator core and see what condition it's in or if there's anything else in there like a plastic bag or a critter nest.
You do not have a resistor pack, you have the Blower Speed Control module (BSC) that is part of the EATC climate control. You cannot use the less expensive resistors unless you also convert from automatic to manual control heads.
In any event, it doesn't sound like the blower motor or its control electronics are the issue anyway. Most likely, you have an airflow restriction that's causing a severely reduced amount of air volume to move through the plenum. Most common causes are: Cabin air filter (if equipped), dirty evaporator core, or a piece of debris (plastic grocery bag, for example) has gotten sucked into the system.
If you have a cabin air filter, check it first. Then, pull the blower motor out and look at the evaporator core and see what condition it's in or if there's anything else in there like a plastic bag or a critter nest.
#7
I found out that when I replaced the motor I had the the thing spinning in the wrong direction. Sorry. I fixed that and it blew fine and I could control the flow.
Then about a month ago it would randomly stop blowing totally and after like 30 min would start blowing again. Now it has stopped and hasn't blown at all for a couple of weeks. From what I am gathering it is not the Blower Speed Control module, right? I am testing at the highest Fan speed.
I checked the fuses and the are good. From the owners manual I checked 10, AC clutch, 107, front blower motor and they were good. 301 is the front blower relay, did not know how to check that. Could that be the culprit?
I checked for 12v at the blower motor cable and it shows 0v.
Then about a month ago it would randomly stop blowing totally and after like 30 min would start blowing again. Now it has stopped and hasn't blown at all for a couple of weeks. From what I am gathering it is not the Blower Speed Control module, right? I am testing at the highest Fan speed.
I checked the fuses and the are good. From the owners manual I checked 10, AC clutch, 107, front blower motor and they were good. 301 is the front blower relay, did not know how to check that. Could that be the culprit?
I checked for 12v at the blower motor cable and it shows 0v.
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#8
I see no one has posted to this in a while. I wanted to also submit that I am having much the same issue with my 2005 F350. I have the Automatic Digital EATC. The A/C works great but for some reason will simply decide (intermittently) to not blow or blow very low even with the EATC readout showing max fan speed. The EATC display readout appears normal with the only exception being fan speed will alternate between high (set at high speed) and low to no fan speed. Anyone have any ideas?
#9
#10
Well for me it was my front blower resistor. I jumped the resistor at the connector plug and it blows now. It only blows on high but it blows. So replacing the following part would fix my issue.
https://www.stockwiseauto.com/airtex...odel=Explorer&
Now that resistor is for vehicles with Auto Temp control and is about $70. I really don't need the ATC features so does anyone know if you can replace it with its cheaper resistor and how to do it? I guess you will need to replace the connector too. that's no big deal but do I keep the old resistor in the hole to cover the opening. I'm sure the cheaper resistor will not fit it.
https://www.stockwiseauto.com/airtex...odel=Explorer&
Now that resistor is for vehicles with Auto Temp control and is about $70. I really don't need the ATC features so does anyone know if you can replace it with its cheaper resistor and how to do it? I guess you will need to replace the connector too. that's no big deal but do I keep the old resistor in the hole to cover the opening. I'm sure the cheaper resistor will not fit it.
#11
I really don't need the ATC features so does anyone know if you can replace it with its cheaper resistor and how to do it?
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Alfonzy
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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10-10-2011 05:59 AM