This is the start of the Nitemare. The engine lost power. had the topside rebuilt. I found out the mechanics name was monkey. Well, hell! big mistake. Obviously. Too late. That *** dropped a bolt down on the piston. The truck ran for a few minutes, supposedly they drove it all over town. I had the engine rebuilt by a good engine rebuild shop. That's all they do. I've replaced all the fuel relays, gas tanks, fuel tanks, battery and the fuel line from the back of the fuel rail to the fuel filter. It still won't run. I'm not getting any fire to the pumps after turning the key. I can bypass with a hot wire and get the pumps running with good pressure. What do I need to try next. I can't wait to burn the tires off of it! They are brand new, five years ago, with 10 miles or less on them. I've looked at all the wires to see if a mouse chewed on it. this thing has sat around for five years! i've looked at the forums and get a piece here and a bit there. Help! I challenge you to help with this Nitemare! Thanks

 

Are you sure your fuel pump relay is working?

 

start with the basics first.
check fuses.
does the pump prime with the first turn of the key?
does the relay click, signifying its working?
if the answer to these is no, you may need a computer. it tells the fuel pump when to turn on.

 

I have checked the fuses. multiple times. When we ran a hot wire back to the pump to try to get it running, a fuse blew. The pump worked then. good pressure to the rail. it would turn over but not fire off. Fuse has been replaced. I'm not absolutely sure that the relay clicked when we turned the key. It did seem like it did. We have no juice going to the pump when we turn the key. I'll check into the computer. Any which computer it is for a 92 f150 with the 5.0?

 

When you turn the key to the Start/Run position, does the Check Engine Light come on or not?

If not, is the bulb out?
Can you pull codes?
If No to any of these, PCM could be at fault, PCM relay/Fuel Pump relay, or ground problems.

 

The ck engine light doesn't come on. I don't have a way to pull the codes. Thanks for the help! I really appreciate it

 

You need to make sure your CEL (Check Engine Light) bulb is not burned out. If it is good, you should be able to pull the codes by grounding the test lead under the hood and reading the blinks of the CEL. If the bulb is good, and it won't come on, then I agree your ECU is probably toast.

http://www.sbftech.com/index.php?topic=2471.0

 

Ok, I'll try that. Everything under the hood has been replaced now. I still have the high idle, no power, hard shift problem.

 

I have both tanks operating now. it took wiring, new tanks and new pumps. but she works off both tanks. My problem now is high idle, now power and hard shifts. ive put in a new computer, new module, new egr, new map sensor, new o2 sensor, new sensors and modules all around. still no power unless its idled up, then of course its shifts hard.

 

Did you ever run the KOEO tests and stored code display as previously suggested?

Start the truck then unplug the IAC connector. If the idle RPM drops to 4-500 RPM or the engine stalls the issue is electronic. If the idle RPM remains high you have a vacuum leak.