EGR Delete performance review
#1
#3
It lowers the possibility of the EGR cooler rupturing. Hot exhaust gasses are allowed to pass thru the cooler, that exhaust is then cooled by coolant and exhaust is allowed to pass into the intake through the EGR valve. If the oil cooler coolant passages become clogged (they do over time), the coolant from the oil cooler travels to the EGR cooler next, where because of the reduced flow, the small EGR coolant passages become hotter than they should. The excess heat cracks the tubing and coolant is allowed to leak from the EGR cooler passages directly into the intake (pushed there by the turbo).... where its burned by the cylinder (turns to steam). Because the cylinder is already using pretty high compression, that steam pressurizes the cylinder above safe limits and two things happen 1) stretch the head bolts and/or 2) allow a head gasket failure.
Why it's the most popular mod.... for longevity, referred to as "bulletproofing".
Not only does it give you a better chance of not lifting the heads, it does lower turbo boost pressure... which would indicated an increase in flow. Also opens the door to increased tuning and higher HP output with that tuner.
Why it's the most popular mod.... for longevity, referred to as "bulletproofing".
Not only does it give you a better chance of not lifting the heads, it does lower turbo boost pressure... which would indicated an increase in flow. Also opens the door to increased tuning and higher HP output with that tuner.
#4
#5
Deleting your EGR will NOT lower EGT temps. Your turbo will actually spool up a bit slower because the EGR is pushing the turbo off a idle a bit.
The difference will be slight and you may not notice it.
Like stated above deleting your EGR is a reliability modification for the 6.0
There is a ton of heat that your EGR cooler has to get rid of before those gases enter the intake manifold and mix with the fresh air for combustion.
Deleting your EGR will:
(1) Stop a future EGR cooler failure
(2) Extend the life of your engine coolant.
(3) Extend the life of your oil cooler.
(4) Keep your intake manifold from coking up and reducing intake flow.
(5) Reduce the heat load of your cooling system.
(6) Lower the chance of head gasket failure substantially.
If you do not need to worry about emission testing by all means remove it from the engine. You will have better combustion in the engine because you will not be re-burning exhaust gases. There is probably a HP gain after removing it but it would be a slight improvement at best.
Hope this helps
The difference will be slight and you may not notice it.
Like stated above deleting your EGR is a reliability modification for the 6.0
There is a ton of heat that your EGR cooler has to get rid of before those gases enter the intake manifold and mix with the fresh air for combustion.
Deleting your EGR will:
(1) Stop a future EGR cooler failure
(2) Extend the life of your engine coolant.
(3) Extend the life of your oil cooler.
(4) Keep your intake manifold from coking up and reducing intake flow.
(5) Reduce the heat load of your cooling system.
(6) Lower the chance of head gasket failure substantially.
If you do not need to worry about emission testing by all means remove it from the engine. You will have better combustion in the engine because you will not be re-burning exhaust gases. There is probably a HP gain after removing it but it would be a slight improvement at best.
Hope this helps
#6
Adding a larger exhaust pipe will reduce EGT, increasing intake airflow will reduce EGT.
I don't think this it true; (3) Extend the life of your oil cooler.
Coolant flows from oil cooler to EGR cooler, removing the EGR cooler only prevents a rupture, which allows coolant into the intake. The oil cooler can still become plugged with silica. When the difference in temperature between the two coolers becomes greater than 15*, it is more probable that the EGR cooler will suffer from high coolant temperature (coming directly from the already hot oil cooler) and because its closer to overheating, the reduced flow finishes it off... it can't cool fast enough.
Once the EGR cooler is gone (removed), it can't rupture and hot coolant from the oil cooler is just passed to the block through the radiator and a return trip to the oil cooler. The 15* spread doesn't apply... however, you still need to watch the oil cooler temperatures. Clogged oil coolers are inefficient at transferring heat from the oil to coolant. Oil at 253* will cause the wrench light to come on and de-fueling begins, the motor is trying to cool the oil... which the oil cooler can't do very well, so it removes fuel... which when burned, generated the heat.... it begins to cool down as a self saving mode.
Your fan should cool the truck well. At 210*, the fan kicks up a few notches, at 217* its in high gear. If you hit 253*, your really close to serious trouble and at temps above 253*, your asking for an internal meltdown. If the oil filter standpipe (plastic pipe) melts, your hot oil will carry melted plastic throughout the motor.. until it cools down and the plastic will then harden... permanently in place.
The First mod you really want to complete... is the EGR delete... IF your state doesn't do vehicle inspections that check that kind of stuff.
Leave the EGR valve plugged into the harness, even though the EGR cooler is gone.. it controls the fan speed.
I don't think this it true; (3) Extend the life of your oil cooler.
Coolant flows from oil cooler to EGR cooler, removing the EGR cooler only prevents a rupture, which allows coolant into the intake. The oil cooler can still become plugged with silica. When the difference in temperature between the two coolers becomes greater than 15*, it is more probable that the EGR cooler will suffer from high coolant temperature (coming directly from the already hot oil cooler) and because its closer to overheating, the reduced flow finishes it off... it can't cool fast enough.
Once the EGR cooler is gone (removed), it can't rupture and hot coolant from the oil cooler is just passed to the block through the radiator and a return trip to the oil cooler. The 15* spread doesn't apply... however, you still need to watch the oil cooler temperatures. Clogged oil coolers are inefficient at transferring heat from the oil to coolant. Oil at 253* will cause the wrench light to come on and de-fueling begins, the motor is trying to cool the oil... which the oil cooler can't do very well, so it removes fuel... which when burned, generated the heat.... it begins to cool down as a self saving mode.
Your fan should cool the truck well. At 210*, the fan kicks up a few notches, at 217* its in high gear. If you hit 253*, your really close to serious trouble and at temps above 253*, your asking for an internal meltdown. If the oil filter standpipe (plastic pipe) melts, your hot oil will carry melted plastic throughout the motor.. until it cools down and the plastic will then harden... permanently in place.
The First mod you really want to complete... is the EGR delete... IF your state doesn't do vehicle inspections that check that kind of stuff.
Leave the EGR valve plugged into the harness, even though the EGR cooler is gone.. it controls the fan speed.
#7
Adding a larger exhaust pipe will reduce EGT, increasing intake airflow will reduce EGT.
I don't think this it true; (3) Extend the life of your oil cooler.
Coolant flows from oil cooler to EGR cooler, removing the EGR cooler only prevents a rupture, which allows coolant into the intake. The oil cooler can still become plugged with silica. When the difference in temperature between the two coolers becomes greater than 15*, it is more probable that the EGR cooler will suffer from high coolant temperature (coming directly from the already hot oil cooler) and because its closer to overheating, the reduced flow finishes it off... it can't cool fast enough.
Once the EGR cooler is gone (removed), it can't rupture and hot coolant from the oil cooler is just passed to the block through the radiator and a return trip to the oil cooler. The 15* spread doesn't apply... however, you still need to watch the oil cooler temperatures. Clogged oil coolers are inefficient at transferring heat from the oil to coolant. Oil at 253* will cause the wrench light to come on and de-fueling begins, the motor is trying to cool the oil... which the oil cooler can't do very well, so it removes fuel... which when burned, generated the heat.... it begins to cool down as a self saving mode.
Your fan should cool the truck well. At 210*, the fan kicks up a few notches, at 217* its in high gear. If you hit 253*, your really close to serious trouble and at temps above 253*, your asking for an internal meltdown. If the oil filter standpipe (plastic pipe) melts, your hot oil will carry melted plastic throughout the motor.. until it cools down and the plastic will then harden... permanently in place.
The First mod you really want to complete... is the EGR delete... IF your state doesn't do vehicle inspections that check that kind of stuff.
Leave the EGR valve plugged into the harness, even though the EGR cooler is gone.. it controls the fan speed.
I don't think this it true; (3) Extend the life of your oil cooler.
Coolant flows from oil cooler to EGR cooler, removing the EGR cooler only prevents a rupture, which allows coolant into the intake. The oil cooler can still become plugged with silica. When the difference in temperature between the two coolers becomes greater than 15*, it is more probable that the EGR cooler will suffer from high coolant temperature (coming directly from the already hot oil cooler) and because its closer to overheating, the reduced flow finishes it off... it can't cool fast enough.
Once the EGR cooler is gone (removed), it can't rupture and hot coolant from the oil cooler is just passed to the block through the radiator and a return trip to the oil cooler. The 15* spread doesn't apply... however, you still need to watch the oil cooler temperatures. Clogged oil coolers are inefficient at transferring heat from the oil to coolant. Oil at 253* will cause the wrench light to come on and de-fueling begins, the motor is trying to cool the oil... which the oil cooler can't do very well, so it removes fuel... which when burned, generated the heat.... it begins to cool down as a self saving mode.
Your fan should cool the truck well. At 210*, the fan kicks up a few notches, at 217* its in high gear. If you hit 253*, your really close to serious trouble and at temps above 253*, your asking for an internal meltdown. If the oil filter standpipe (plastic pipe) melts, your hot oil will carry melted plastic throughout the motor.. until it cools down and the plastic will then harden... permanently in place.
The First mod you really want to complete... is the EGR delete... IF your state doesn't do vehicle inspections that check that kind of stuff.
Leave the EGR valve plugged into the harness, even though the EGR cooler is gone.. it controls the fan speed.
Pull that hot cooker out of the cooling system and coolant will hold up better and last longer.
Therefore the oil cooler has better coolant running through it. The oil cooler is of coarse has the finest passages that the coolant has to pass through and the first thing to plug up.
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#8
#9
SCT flash to turn the CEL off, fan still works correctly, YES.
EGR cooler, I would agree that its a cooker... but coolant touching cylinder walls is much hotter and more of it being routed to the oil cooler than the EGR cooler... If it really cooked that stuff in the EGR cooler, and I me cooked it... they would be clogging more than oil coolers, would you agree?
They may very well be clogging and then rupture.
EGR cooler, I would agree that its a cooker... but coolant touching cylinder walls is much hotter and more of it being routed to the oil cooler than the EGR cooler... If it really cooked that stuff in the EGR cooler, and I me cooked it... they would be clogging more than oil coolers, would you agree?
They may very well be clogging and then rupture.
#13
The cylinder walls are not hotter then the EGR cooler,not even close. There is a fair amount of cast iron between the cylinder and cooling jacket. Plus its a large area where the heat is spread out, the hottest part of the engine is the cylinder heads. But again the area is large and heat is dispersed across the area.
The EGR cooler is very thin SS and the heat coming in is 700-1400* it is hands down the hottest thing the antifreeze has to deal with.
Its a tough thing for the cooling system to deal with. Nothing like the 6.4 though they are running the DPF cooling through the radiator and it destroys the radiators.
The diesel engine has never had emissions testing so most of this is relatively new for the engine manufacturers. Proof is in the pudding and the pudding is still pretty new.....
The EGR cooler is very thin SS and the heat coming in is 700-1400* it is hands down the hottest thing the antifreeze has to deal with.
Its a tough thing for the cooling system to deal with. Nothing like the 6.4 though they are running the DPF cooling through the radiator and it destroys the radiators.
The diesel engine has never had emissions testing so most of this is relatively new for the engine manufacturers. Proof is in the pudding and the pudding is still pretty new.....
#14
EGR Cooler definitely raises the temps higher than the cylinders, trying to cool 1400F exhaust down with 200F water. There's a reason the old green silicate coolant can't be used on EGR diesels. The coolant gets so hot the silictes start precipitating out.
Another advantage not said yet about EGR delete is no more soot coming back to the intake manifold. That's got to count for something. The EGR valve seems to get sooted up pretty fast.
Another advantage not said yet about EGR delete is no more soot coming back to the intake manifold. That's got to count for something. The EGR valve seems to get sooted up pretty fast.
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