06 F-350
Truck has been running fine up until today.
Shut it off , it was hard to start turned over lots.
Didn't really think about it , went another place and shut it off , cranked over lots but no start. I was in the middle of a driveway so I gave it a squirt of starting fluid and it started and ran fine.


Drove it home parked it went out a bit ago and tried it , no start doesn't even fire.


I had it figured on what to start checking on my 7.3 but don't know much about the 6L?


Does it have a HPOP tank? Cam positioner , ICP?
Whats some basic things I can check without a scanner?


Its like its not getting fuel. It did that when I first got it ,and it was a high pressure fitting leaking inside the engine , $2500 fix.

 

Sounds like an HPO leak but you need gauges to determine what's going on. Keep using starting fluid tho and an HPO leak will be the least of your worries......

 

Ive used starting fluid on different things for 30 years without blowing anything up so Ill take my chances but thanks.


I had a 96 that I used to give it a sniff every morning or it wouldn't start.
It started all day after that but it needed it every morning.


I owned a International tractor that had a factory built in place to put a can of starting fluid and a handle inside the cab to give it ether.


Used right it has its place.

 

Your wallet, just trying to help.

 

Thanks again but my question was whether or not there were things you could check without a scanner as I don't have one and a wrecker costs $175 to tow it to the nearest place it can be scanned.

 

Do you know more specifically what the leak was that was fixed? That is something you will need to find out. If it was the STC fitting, stand pipes, dummy plugs, oil rail........or all of it.
Not really an HPOP tank like on a 7.3. There is a reservoir under the oil cooler but unless your not pumping any oil up from your LPOP that is not an issue, and is uncommon.

Reason we say get a way to measure things live is you can throw parts at a 6.0 until the cows come home, and sometimes they will go back out to pasture before things are working.
Initially this sounds like a classic hot start problem, usually caused by in internal oil leak.



Welcome to the world of the 6.0.
Like Shane said, it's your wallet.

 

pull the fuel filter cap off and have someone turn the key on to see if it's filling. Next, unplug the ICP sensor (left valve cover) and see if it starts.

You had all the internal leaks fixed for $2500... assuming those were STC, standpipe, dummy plugs, injector o-rings...

Make sure the batteries are fully charged... try that.

Then it's time to get a scanner, codes that it stored, live data while cranking, ICP, IPR%, FICM and CAM/Crank sync.

Good luck

 

^^^^^^ THIS IS THE TRUTH
The truck has two separate computers in it. It's 2016, a basic OBDII and live-data scanner is basic tool you have to have to do anything but guess and throw in hard parts. The majority of the Ford PC-ED diagnostic manual is based on tasked performed via computer, there's no way around it.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...eral-info.html

They're telling you not to use starting fluid because if a glow plug is hot it'll ignite the fluid before you turn the engine over. Maybe it'll cause internal damage or maybe it won't, but there's the other chance of it popping out the intake back in your face.

 

I would use intake or carb cleaner as a starting aid before i used ether. It is flammable enough to help with cold starts, but not as explosive or volatile as ether. I've heard more than 1 diesel expert say that, but have not tried it myself. Even in single digit temps, my 6.0 never thought twice about starting up.
If you end up having the valve covers off, some new glow plugs would be a good idea. Not too difficult or expensive if you are already in there.

 

Probably a good idea to have a scanner , however I'm a fence contractor not a mechanic and my truck isn't my hobby.


I doubt if everyone has a post hole auger in case they need to change a post?

 

Thank you



Thank you

 

No but I do have a Mikita chipping hammer to bust the rock up.

 

Home Depot rents those Most autoparts stores will let you bum a code reader for free for a few minutes. If you post in your state chapter board someone near you might be able to help you out, meet up to let you borrow their scanner.

Ultimately what's more expensive; a $100 tool that you can keep and use multiple times, paying $2500 at a dealer for a repair you that you can't even verify isn't still a problem, or paying mark-up on parts to toss blindly into the truck?

 

You came here asking for help and then refuse to accept what the people in the know are telling you.

What you asked would be like calling your doctor and telling him you were sick and expecting him to cure you over the phone.

Certain things require certain items to effectively operate them.

For the 6.0, some method of monitoring them is almost a requirement.

Lets say that you had a minor issue that would have been discovered via monitoring and since it wasn't discovered early it now becomes a major repair.

For very little money a monitor could save you thousands in repairs down the road.

If you have a smartphone you can monitor your 6.0 for under $50 bucks or if you can spare around $175.00 you could have a ScanguageII permanently monitoring your engine to avoid future costly repairs.

The cost of solving many issues on this motor via trial and error will certainly cost more than investing in a simple scanner.

Also, the ScanguageII adds additional trip monitors, fuel mileage tracking and a code reader so even if your truck isn't your hobby it will prove useful in a variety of ways.

I'm not trying to start an argument just trying to bring some perspective to the idea that monitoring of the 6.0 is important.

 

I think you also need to check your fuel pump is pumping properly, just listen down on the frame rail below the fuel filler door with key on. We also need your battery voltage and what the FICm is seeing, what multiplied voltage is, to know if FICM is working. The other wpquick check is to see if you have low pressure oil, Does the dash gauge come up on a long crank for low oil pressure?

How good is fuel level, does it have more than a quarter tank, the siphon can be off the stand pipe in the tank and require a repair, put atleast a half tank of diesel with jerry cans and make sure top you treat it for antigel and cutaneous boost. Ford PM 24 cetane booster probably best and use a double diesel for tank size.

The guys are trying to help, I would definitely put a charger on the batteries over night and give it another try. Consider cleaning battery posts, ground cables ect, to make sure your getting sufficient cranking speed.

This is not an old direct injection diesel tractor it has 8 glow plugs. Ether is dangerous in this case because the ether has to go through all the inter cooler and piping and turbo BEFORE it gets into the engine.

Report back and I will see if I can help I am 4 hour drive away but I know your town and might be able to help with some further steps. Though it's likely a cod reader is going to be the next thing to point you in I the right direction. Your local Ford dealer might have a good chance that can come look see for cheaper than the towing, talk to him nice, maybe he can bring the reader by after work.