Why delete the EGR
#1
Why delete the EGR
I have a stock 07 SD, Everything seems to be functioning OK. I have 60,000 miles on here. I have noticed a kettle wistling sound coming from the engine. I was told this is just turbo fart. Now I have read alot about the egr deleting option that everone is doing. Why is this? Will I notice any improvement? I could use a bit of throttle response. One more thing I have removed the egr and cleaned it a couple of weeks ago and did notice a smoother take off.
#2
I have a stock 07 SD, Everything seems to be functioning OK. I have 60,000 miles on here. I have noticed a kettle wistling sound coming from the engine. I was told this is just turbo fart. Now I have read alot about the egr deleting option that everone is doing. Why is this? Will I notice any improvement? I could use a bit of throttle response. One more thing I have removed the egr and cleaned it a couple of weeks ago and did notice a smoother take off.
No expert here as I'm new to my 6.0 Ex, but from what I understand, it is mainly to remove the "prone-to-fail" factory part that causes coolant to seep into the engine causing damage and expensive repairs.
For more information and instructional videos, check this link & site out: POWERSTROKEHELP.COM
Jack
#3
Just wanted to add that I believe the experts say that there is minimal performance gain from deleting the EGR (valve & cooler). In some states (shall I dare say most?), it is against the law. In Jan 2010, CA will be implementing periodic smog checks similar to what is done for gassers.
Reference: http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/80_BARRe...ns/ab1488.html
The other option is should (when) it fails, replace it with an upgraded EGR cooler similar to what is shown here: http://www.ntshoptools.com/Ford_Power_Stroke_EGR.html
This link has good close-up shots of where the weak points are with the stock EGR cooler and how they have upgraded it to prevent against crack-causing-leaks.
Reference: http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/80_BARRe...ns/ab1488.html
The other option is should (when) it fails, replace it with an upgraded EGR cooler similar to what is shown here: http://www.ntshoptools.com/Ford_Power_Stroke_EGR.html
This link has good close-up shots of where the weak points are with the stock EGR cooler and how they have upgraded it to prevent against crack-causing-leaks.
#4
There are several options and opinions to deleteing the EGR valve and EGR cooler. The key point here is that the hot exhaust heat could cause the EGR cooler to rupture OR flash boil the coolant. The ruptured cooler is VERY bad which may lead to coolant in the cylinders. Flash boiling the coolant may lead to puking which is sometimes thought to be bad head gaskets. IF you modify the EGR up-pipe by welding in a steel disc you prevent the hot exhaust from entering the EGR cooler. This helps with the associated problems and allows the turbo to spool better since you give the exhaust a better route of flow.
Simply put, if you have no EGR problems now modding the EGR up-pipe could prevent any future problems. If you have EGR cooler issues you should consider the full delete of the cooler.
Simply put, if you have no EGR problems now modding the EGR up-pipe could prevent any future problems. If you have EGR cooler issues you should consider the full delete of the cooler.
#5
I just hade a major engine rebuild (caused in the end by the egr failing). Be very clear, Do it right. I used the liberator kit. my turbo spoolup time is faster, 1-2 mpg better, and smoother idle. Yea I know its against the law but guess what, Uncle sam was no were to be found when I was paying 7500.00 plus for a total upper rebuild. The gunk you cleaned from your egr is through your whole intake system (I bet your vanes in your turbo are stuck). This effects MPG,power, and emissons.
Mike
Mike
#6
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This is not a turbo fart right here, a turbo fart actually sounds like a fart not a kettle sound. In my experience the kettle sound is actually something going on with the headbolts. Now that is my experience when I had the kettle sound, so I would be looking at something wrong there and while you're there take care of the EGR/EGR cooler as well. If you want to compare the two sounds, build up boost and just let go of the throttle really quick and it should make it "fart". Usually EGR and headbolt issues occur at the same time and sometimes dealerships try to fix the EGR before they do the headbolt issue. That is a mistake in my book. I don't know if one causes the other or there is something that causes a failure in both pretty close in time to one another, but usually those issues travel in pairs.
#7
I'm suprised no one noticed this little gem of a fact.
This is not a turbo fart right here, a turbo fart actually sounds like a fart not a kettle sound. In my experience the kettle sound is actually something going on with the headbolts. Now that is my experience when I had the kettle sound, so I would be looking at something wrong there and while you're there take care of the EGR/EGR cooler as well. If you want to compare the two sounds, build up boost and just let go of the throttle really quick and it should make it "fart". Usually EGR and headbolt issues occur at the same time and sometimes dealerships try to fix the EGR before they do the headbolt issue. That is a mistake in my book. I don't know if one causes the other or there is something that causes a failure in both pretty close in time to one another, but usually those issues travel in pairs.
This is not a turbo fart right here, a turbo fart actually sounds like a fart not a kettle sound. In my experience the kettle sound is actually something going on with the headbolts. Now that is my experience when I had the kettle sound, so I would be looking at something wrong there and while you're there take care of the EGR/EGR cooler as well. If you want to compare the two sounds, build up boost and just let go of the throttle really quick and it should make it "fart". Usually EGR and headbolt issues occur at the same time and sometimes dealerships try to fix the EGR before they do the headbolt issue. That is a mistake in my book. I don't know if one causes the other or there is something that causes a failure in both pretty close in time to one another, but usually those issues travel in pairs.
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#8
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By the way when I had blown headbolts, I didn't have any performance issues either. The only real sign I had was the whistle that was so loud that people were staring at the truck.
That's what I was referring to when it's a problem with the bolts. The pressure loss causes coolant to blow out of the degas bottle or it could be a defective cap(rare, but it does happen). I would have the OP checking around the reservoir.
However, whoever told the OP that a kettle whistle was the same as a turbo fart wasn't correct. There is a difference between a turbo whistle and a kettle whistle(atleast it seems to me, but I actually wouldn't put much stock in that as I'm horrible with that type of thing(that and colors)).
#9
I have an MBRP downpipe as well and I don't have that sound. I have a whistle, but it isn't a kettle whistle. Two, the OP didn't make any mention of an a/m downpipe and also that whistle is most certainly not a turbo fart, atleast not how I would describe one for which I learned from these boards here.
By the way when I had blown headbolts, I didn't have any performance issues either. The only real sign I had was the whistle that was so loud that people were staring at the truck.
That's what I was referring to when it's a problem with the bolts. The pressure loss causes coolant to blow out of the degas bottle or it could be a defective cap(rare, but it does happen). I would have the OP checking around the reservoir.
However, whoever told the OP that a kettle whistle was the same as a turbo fart wasn't correct. There is a difference between a turbo whistle and a kettle whistle(atleast it seems to me, but I actually wouldn't put much stock in that as I'm horrible with that type of thing(that and colors)).
By the way when I had blown headbolts, I didn't have any performance issues either. The only real sign I had was the whistle that was so loud that people were staring at the truck.
That's what I was referring to when it's a problem with the bolts. The pressure loss causes coolant to blow out of the degas bottle or it could be a defective cap(rare, but it does happen). I would have the OP checking around the reservoir.
However, whoever told the OP that a kettle whistle was the same as a turbo fart wasn't correct. There is a difference between a turbo whistle and a kettle whistle(atleast it seems to me, but I actually wouldn't put much stock in that as I'm horrible with that type of thing(that and colors)).
#10
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Turbo whistle does very with operation due to the nature of how a turbo operates.
#14
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Stock or aftermarket turbo? Stock turbo should only really whistle down low and the a/m turbos(particularly the non-vgts) tend to whistle higher up(when cruising interstate speeds). When I had the 03 turbo, I noticed that loud whistle would stop around 45-50 mph, while that's when the turbo I have now just starts to kick in.
#15
virginia failed my state safety inspection because i disconnected my egr and AIR tubes, check your laws before you do it i don't even need emissions testing but they still failed my safety inspection...va sucks
did you just notice the sound like it has been there for a while or did it just start recently the 6.0 has a high pitched turbo definantly more audible than a 7.3 anyways that kettle sound if it continues from idle and up could just be normal turbo sound
did you just notice the sound like it has been there for a while or did it just start recently the 6.0 has a high pitched turbo definantly more audible than a 7.3 anyways that kettle sound if it continues from idle and up could just be normal turbo sound
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