Hey guys!
I have a '95 F150, single cab short bed. 5.0 stick.

I just installed a 6" lift and 35"s maybe 700 miles ago. I was just on the freeway doing about 60, that's all I dare stopped up to. Good thing too, because my transfer case decided it didn't want to be a transfer case anymore. I barely got it off the road and had to tow it home.

The driveshaft has a TON of play inside the case, so I'm sure it's toast.

I went in to a driveline shop after my lift to retube the shafts, and he said I didn't need it. I think he was wrong. Maybe it went dry, I really don't know. In any case, a new t-case is in my near future.

This is a trail truck so I'm not worried about doing things perfect, so a junkyard case will do it for me.

What should I look for? Are there any stock boxes that are better than others? In any case, I would really rather get one that has the shaft bolt into it with a center yoke rather than mine that has the yoke going into the transfer cat itself. Is this only prevalent in Broncos?

Thanks in advance!

/Quinn

 

Yeah you're looking for a flange on the rear output, only used in Bronco's.

No real difference in cases, the 1356 cases are all the same except for the shift mechanism which can be either electric or manual. I prefer manual but that is up to you. A manual case can be swapped into a truck that originally had electric, it's all bolt-in except for sawing the hole in the floor for the shifter.

Whatever you do, I recommend you do the oil pump retainer mod to prevent it from failing in the future. This thread shows the fix for the retainer: Rebuild your own transfer case. BW1356 - FSB Forums

 

FYI you don't have to saw a hole in the floor - the hole is already in the stamping and they glued a plate over it for the electric shift models. Just heat it up around the edges with a propane torch to soften the adhesive and use a putty knife to get up underneath and pry it up.

 

I wish you were 100% correct but what you said only applies to SOME trucks. Other, like mine, have the stamping thre but it is NOT cut out for you. Nothing to remove. My truck also does not have the transmission access hatch for what it's worth. If the hole ain't there then just cut one. The shifter boot bezel didn't match the contours of the floor on mine so I just got a boot from a '79 F100 and used a rubber mallet to shape it's metal bezel to my floorboards.

 

I can't believe you could do a 6" lift without needing to retube the driveshafts. But I'm also not sure how a short driveshaft would toast a t.case unless it actually came out of engagement.

 

I agree that the trucks w/o the trans access panel won't have the hole for the xfer case shifter, but that is because (at least I thought) the trucks that do not have trans access panel are 2WD only. Is your truck, like mine, converted from 2WD to 4WD?

This is not the truck I am using as an example of the xfer case hole being there - that was my '91 Bronco SAE.

 

I've got a BW1356 that I am pulling out of my 1989 f350...perfectly good for regular application (of course we prefer NP205's).

 

No, my truck is factory electric shift 4x4 that I converted to manual shift 4x4. Factory auto trans as well (E4OD).