Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Bag of ICE on Injector Pump

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Old 05-08-2015, 06:08 PM
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Bag of ICE on Injector Pump

I am fairly sure I have another injector pump going out.


I keep a small bag of ICE in the cooler and when the engine is hot throw the bag of ice on the pump while it sits.


Seems to work great so far for a band aid.
 
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Old 05-08-2015, 09:02 PM
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lol i wonder how long that will work for.reminds me of my latest issue.i generally start/turn off my engine probably up to approx 50 times per day when working the truck.well the current starter has been messing up from time to time when i go to start it.it's not fully engaging and sounds nasty.it's been rare and just once then it goes,but today it did it 4 starting attempts in a row! so on the way home tonight,i grabbed another one to put on tomorrow (autozone reman/lifetime warranty.)

good luck.don't get stranded!
 
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Old 05-09-2015, 07:39 AM
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Be careful using ice. You can cool the housing down too quick and seize the head in the pump. What you describe tells me the hydraulic head in the pump is wore. The clearances get to far apart when warm and cause a no start. I use cool, not cold, water to cool a pump off when this happens. Depending on how wore the pump is this could be a "fix" for awhile or it could go out in an instant.
 
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Old 05-09-2015, 12:24 PM
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It takes like 7 or 10 seconds to start the truck when it is hot, the starter does not like it. The bag trick has it going in like 3 seconds.
 
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Old 05-09-2015, 12:26 PM
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Sometimes I think for start and stop driving a gas engine is a better way to go ? Of all these engines 6.9 and 7.3 it is always the same thing. The don't stop if you can always get them started.
 
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Old 05-09-2015, 02:58 PM
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it does sound like your pump is tired.
i also use cool water. as said, ice cold can be the bullet that kills the pump.
 
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Old 05-10-2015, 09:48 PM
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Turn the fuel up... That's the band aid that will get you through until you can buy a refreshed pump. As long as the Advance piston bore isn't totally wore out, turning up the fuel will buy time. The only issue is leaf spring size. If you have a small leaf spring, than turning up the fuel may not be enough to overcome rotor to head wear.
 
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Old 05-11-2015, 12:52 AM
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Another thing I find that helped me was to floor it while cranking, it sill takes a little bit of cranking but a heck lot less then just at idle. My theory on this is when you floor it the extra fuel cools down the head and rotor, now I don't know if the govener limits fuel at cranking or if the timing being advanced by the plunger on the side if it does anything at crank also makes any differemce.
 
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Old 05-11-2015, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ifrythings
Another thing I find that helped me was to floor it while cranking, it sill takes a little bit of cranking but a heck lot less then just at idle. My theory on this is when you floor it the extra fuel cools down the head and rotor, now I don't know if the govener limits fuel at cranking or if the timing being advanced by the plunger on the side if it does anything at crank also makes any differemce.

Its not the extra fuel cooling it, its the extra fuel volume by the plungers that is being pumped.


Hot start issue is when the tolerances between the head and rotor have enough wear that the calibration where the pump was set is no longer in spec. The reason a rebuild is usually needed is because that calibration has to be reset on the stand to account for the extra fluid leakdown in the head/rotor bore.


Turning up the fuel doesn't put calibration back into spec, only a recalibration on the stand can do that, but it will increase the cranking volume to where you don't have the hot start issue any longer... Unless of course, your hydraulic head is complete worn out, or your leaf spring is too small for the extra volume needed.
 
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:45 PM
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Thanks, yaa I am about do for your tune parts.
 
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Old 05-14-2015, 01:26 PM
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Mine is going again, I just keep a old washer fluid bottle or three in the bed full of hose water. It is whatever temp it is when I pour it sometimes cold, sometimes warm. Pour it right where the thermometer is in the IP, fires right up. Just let her idle for a few min (I usually give 5-10 depending on how much of a rush I'm in), and I'm good to go.

Much easier than sourcing/storing ice.
 
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Old 05-16-2015, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by SnuffthePunkz
Mine is going again, I just keep a old washer fluid bottle or three in the bed full of hose water. It is whatever temp it is when I pour it sometimes cold, sometimes warm. Pour it right where the thermometer is in the IP, fires right up. Just let her idle for a few min (I usually give 5-10 depending on how much of a rush I'm in), and I'm good to go.

Much easier than sourcing/storing ice.

How many miles did you get out of before it started going.
 
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Old 05-16-2015, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Realslowww
How many miles did you get out of before it started going.
Eh no clue, not likely as long as it should last. Something like 2-2 1/2 years. It's likely a combination of other engine issues I have. Valve covers are leaking, likely head gasket, and I think my rear main went a few weeks ago, that and my being rather hard on my truck. Lots of towing and hauling, taking off pretty heavy and wheeling fast/aggressively. Currently it acts up one day maybe once every 2-4 weeks.

In the next year or so she'll be getting a rest and either a new engine or I'll be rebuilding this one. So I'm not so worried about it.
 
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