A/C and Smog Pump delete
#1
A/C and Smog Pump delete
I am interested in pulling the smog pump and the a/c condenser off of my 351W. Anyone have an idler set up for removing the a/c to recommend and what about the smop. I was told that i can just take the smog off and not worry about it but i will need an idler for the a/c. Is this true? Will i be about too just get smaller belt to make up for the smog and who makes a good set up for removing the a/c.
#2
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#3
Ok thats what i thought about the smog. Its a mud truck so a/c is not a necessity at all. I mean it is my daily driver as well but its got his n hers sun roof, rear slider, and power windows. Not to mention the factory installed oscilating windows. Turn them bad boys all the way around and it just as good as ac lol
#4
I use my truck primarily for 4 wheelin...the irony is that I fixed the ac a few years back after going a few summer months without it. I have to keep the windows rolled up a lot if I don't want to get whipped or beat in the face by branches and such. Plus, I have critters crawling all over me and the cab that were living on said branches. . .I also wind em up if I have to sling some mud. So I'm cruisin the trails nice and cool, if I wasnt, I'd die from heat and no airflow.
you're right, those lil windows are amazing for cruising at speed
..
you're right, those lil windows are amazing for cruising at speed
..
#6
#7
I think I got my delete pulley from summit racing but I think many places have them, search on line and see if any local stores show up in the results, or just go to their site first.
My belt is a 910K6/6PK2310. It's a 91 inch (2310mm = 91in), 6 rib belt. Those numbers are easily cross referenced. That belt might be a good starting point. When you install, check the tensioner for fit and you should be good.
My belt is a 910K6/6PK2310. It's a 91 inch (2310mm = 91in), 6 rib belt. Those numbers are easily cross referenced. That belt might be a good starting point. When you install, check the tensioner for fit and you should be good.
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#8
#10
$.02
There is so much info in this thread, I wish I had this 5 years ago! I am just adding my experience, fwiw. My truck is factory NO AC. There is a belt option for 351w w/ out ac and you don't need to buy an idler. I live in the Great Dismal Swamp area of Virginia, and the truck previously lived its entire life on Knotts Island NC before I got it. Defrost is a must here in the early morning and I have had no problems without the AC, although I suppose dehumidifier the air would not hurt. In the summer time the vent windows provide enough moving air in combination with the 4/65-AC (4 windows down + 65mph) to keep you cool. I also added a 12v fan on the dash for traffic.
The smog pump delete is simple also. I do not run an idler there either.. remove the plumbing, insert thermactor plugs in the back of the cylinder head, remove vacuum hoses from tab and tad, (you can also remove the sensors by soldering the correct resistors to the wires or buying the resistor plugs from pump-x) crimp and roll up the metal line on the exhaust like a toothpaste tube. Moral of the story is you can remove both items and run a shorter belt without extra idler pulleys.
Maybe someone can correct me, as this might be disinformation.... iirc the air injection system adds air to the exhaust pre-o2sensor during engine warm up only to create a lean condition, causing the computer to fatten the mixture to keep from stalling in cold climate. Im sure it gets a little bit colder in Alaska then it does here in coastal VA . That may be a problem for you.
The smog pump delete is simple also. I do not run an idler there either.. remove the plumbing, insert thermactor plugs in the back of the cylinder head, remove vacuum hoses from tab and tad, (you can also remove the sensors by soldering the correct resistors to the wires or buying the resistor plugs from pump-x) crimp and roll up the metal line on the exhaust like a toothpaste tube. Moral of the story is you can remove both items and run a shorter belt without extra idler pulleys.
Maybe someone can correct me, as this might be disinformation.... iirc the air injection system adds air to the exhaust pre-o2sensor during engine warm up only to create a lean condition, causing the computer to fatten the mixture to keep from stalling in cold climate. Im sure it gets a little bit colder in Alaska then it does here in coastal VA . That may be a problem for you.
#11
There is so much info in this thread, I wish I had this 5 years ago! I am just adding my experience, fwiw. My truck is factory NO AC. There is a belt option for 351w w/ out ac and you don't need to buy an idler. I live in the Great Dismal Swamp area of Virginia, and the truck previously lived its entire life on Knotts Island NC before I got it. Defrost is a must here in the early morning and I have had no problems without the AC, although I suppose dehumidifier the air would not hurt. In the summer time the vent windows provide enough moving air in combination with the 4/65-AC (4 windows down + 65mph) to keep you cool. I also added a 12v fan on the dash for traffic.
The smog pump delete is simple also. I do not run an idler there either.. remove the plumbing, insert thermactor plugs in the back of the cylinder head, remove vacuum hoses from tab and tad, (you can also remove the sensors by soldering the correct resistors to the wires or buying the resistor plugs from pump-x) crimp and roll up the metal line on the exhaust like a toothpaste tube. Moral of the story is you can remove both items and run a shorter belt without extra idler pulleys.
Maybe someone can correct me, as this might be disinformation.... iirc the air injection system adds air to the exhaust pre-o2sensor during engine warm up only to create a lean condition, causing the computer to fatten the mixture to keep from stalling in cold climate. Im sure it gets a little bit colder in Alaska then it does here in coastal VA . That may be a problem for you.
The smog pump delete is simple also. I do not run an idler there either.. remove the plumbing, insert thermactor plugs in the back of the cylinder head, remove vacuum hoses from tab and tad, (you can also remove the sensors by soldering the correct resistors to the wires or buying the resistor plugs from pump-x) crimp and roll up the metal line on the exhaust like a toothpaste tube. Moral of the story is you can remove both items and run a shorter belt without extra idler pulleys.
Maybe someone can correct me, as this might be disinformation.... iirc the air injection system adds air to the exhaust pre-o2sensor during engine warm up only to create a lean condition, causing the computer to fatten the mixture to keep from stalling in cold climate. Im sure it gets a little bit colder in Alaska then it does here in coastal VA . That may be a problem for you.
would you happen to know the belt size for no ac and no smog pump? I would have thought going from alternator to power steering with the auto tensioner it would not tension properly.
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JGreen236
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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01-05-2010 04:34 PM