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exhaust stud removal trick

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Old 11-24-2014, 11:15 AM
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exhaust stud removal trick

Well I am getting all the tools and parts to gather for my spring time dual exhaust manifold R&R.

I can tell I have at least 1 stud broken off below the surface of head.

I will be drilling it out with left handed drill bits...I hope.

This should help center things:
Part # 93235A352
From McMaster Carr
$2.92 each
Vented stainless steel socket head cap screw, M8X1.25

Thoughts?
 
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Old 11-26-2014, 07:09 AM
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It will be useful only as long as the stud shears off either several threads above or below flush with the head surface.

For studs that shear nearly flush, it won't help.
 
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Old 11-27-2014, 12:47 AM
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I made this in the lathe, had 6 broken off just below surface of head, used right angle drill with left handed bit. Got everyone out

 
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Old 11-28-2014, 07:25 AM
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I made my own with the clean half of a removed stud. Use the bad half to clamp it down and drill a straight hole through it, then cut off the bad section where you had it clamped. For studs in the head where you can get grab a couple threads just tread it in above the broken stud, for exposed threads (yes I had several that even though I had some grip room still had to be completely drilled out) I threaded the it into a nut then threaded the nut onto the exposed thread.


As projectSHO89 says though, none of that helps if you are flush. Flush is the worst. I extracted all 20 of mine after cutting the nuts off to remove the manifolds.

15 - I got with a titan stud extractor
1 - broken off three threads into the head - got a starter hole drilled on this one using the tool I made above and got it with an easy out.
4 - had about 5 threads exposed but every attempt at removal failed and I finally had to drill them all the way out starting at 1/8" and ending at 1/4" - starting straight is "critically important".

Give this a read and note the mistakes I made, there are plenty other threads on here that are good reads as well.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-dummies.html
 
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Old 12-05-2014, 01:03 PM
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MIG welder was my tool of choice. Welded nuts on the exposed studs and built up weld and then a nut on the ones in the head.
 
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Old 12-05-2014, 05:38 PM
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+1 for the welder it worked great for me I believe the heat from the welder also helps loosen the broken bolts
 
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Old 06-19-2015, 10:40 AM
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Well I had 2 studs come out with nut on drivers side. 3 were removed via welding a washer and nut onto exposed broken studs. 2 were removed using a stud extractor. And the last 3 removed using http://m.ebay.com/itm/161693918449?nav=SEARCH. Drill guide and bushing.

The drill guide worked so good I will probably not even do the welding nut method on passenger side. I would however recommend some cobalt left hand drill bits, as they removed material MUCH better than the bit supplied with kit. McMaster carr part # 3474A15.
 
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Old 06-19-2015, 12:32 PM
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just take them out with a nut and a mig welder. works great/cheap.
 
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Old 06-19-2015, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by 90turbo1
just take them out with a nut and a mig welder. works great/cheap.

Tried that and only worked on 3 studs. Studs broke again after welding washer and nut on them.

Just a point of intrest, there were 4 holes that would not accept new studs without running a tap thru them. New studs got so tight I was afraid of breaking them while installing.

It is my belief that when the head was mass produced the tolerances on those hole/taps was off. Some holes I could install a stud with my fingers, others needed tapped.

And no I did not damage any threads, to cause this.
 
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Old 06-19-2015, 09:31 PM
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I had no luck with the MIG. The Titan stud extractor really worked well though.
Here is my thread of suffering through this....
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...t-it-info.html
 
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Old 06-22-2015, 08:42 AM
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Yes, I used the titan extractor. On passenger side only 1 stud came out with nut. 9 were either broke or had to be cut to get manifold off.

The titan put a smile on my face 5 times on the passenger side. Would have been 6 but it broke one stud almost flush with head.

Drill guide and bushing did the rest perfectly.

Just a note that using a 6.7mm drill bit to drill about 1/8" into stud/hole to recess stuck stud seemed to help alot. Most corrosion is there and this technique removes that and makes extraction much easier.
 
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:58 AM
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Drove the X to work this morning.

Before I fixed the manifold leaks my average mpg was 12.

25 miles to work today and my meter says 17.2 mpg.

Both figures are low as my tires are taller than stock.

A 5 mpg increase is significant though!!!
 
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Old 08-07-2015, 10:27 AM
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After several 100 miles my fuel average is now 13.5 mpg. Still better than the 12, but not 17 either.
 
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