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Broken exhaust studs....time to get at it. Info?

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Broken exhaust studs....time to get at it. Info?

 
  #1  
Old 06-13-2009, 10:35 PM
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Broken exhaust studs....time to get at it. Info?

Is there a common thread with a few pics and tips on what to replace these crappy studs with?
I have spent some time searching but nothing real explanitory for a dumhead like myself.
I have other vehicles so I can keep the truck parked for as long as it takes. Hopefully I will be done in 14 days as I was planning on towing the trailer up north for some fishing and camping.
 
  #2  
Old 06-14-2009, 10:13 PM
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Well, I got it torn down to the point where I can begin working.
I have 6 broken on the passenger side and only one on the drivers side. The drivers side also looks less coroded?
Anway, should I heat the unbroken studs before removing the remaining nuts? Or will they break regardless.
And on the driver side manifold. Will I need an EGR tube? It looks rusted on there and I don't want to have to shop for an EGR tube and manifold!
Passenger side.


6 broken off.


Driver side.


How to remove this?
 
  #3  
Old 06-14-2009, 11:43 PM
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  #4  
Old 06-15-2009, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Monster-4 View Post
Thanks!
I don't know how I missed that thread.
Is it manditory to remove both motor mounts and lift the engine if I'm not installing headers?
 
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Old 06-15-2009, 11:20 AM
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No you don't have to lift the motor.

The thread below is my story. Hope it helps. Sorry no pics, but I tried to be descriptive. I had about the same amout broken that you do, alot of them broke the second I put a wrench to it.

I reinstalled the manifolds after they were resurfaced with Grade 10.9 Flange-head bolts. So far so good.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7135746
 
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Old 06-15-2009, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by saskdiesel View Post
Thanks!
I don't know how I missed that thread.
Is it manditory to remove both motor mounts and lift the engine if I'm not installing headers?
You shouldn't if everything comes out clean. I had to lift the engine to get to some studs on the bottom side that broke in the head.
 
  #7  
Old 06-15-2009, 11:17 PM
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DaveandJennyP, where did you get the bolts from?

10.9 8 - 1.25 X 35 mm bolts,

that seems to be better than i have tracked down.

thanx jax 99
 
  #8  
Old 06-16-2009, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Jax 99 View Post
DaveandJennyP, where did you get the bolts from?

10.9 8 - 1.25 X 35 mm bolts,

that seems to be better than i have tracked down.

thanx jax 99
I was planning on buying them from Ford.
Am I better off going elsewhere? I don't want to be doing this again anytime soon.
That EGR tube is giving me the ******* just looking at it. I am planning on heating it with my little Mapp torch before breaking it loose.
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Jax 99 View Post
DaveandJennyP, where did you get the bolts from?

10.9 8 - 1.25 X 35 mm bolts,

that seems to be better than i have tracked down.

thanx jax 99
Actually ordered them off Amazon dot com. they were about $25 for a box of 25.

The Ford Replacement Studs which supposedly have been improved were over $8 A PIECE. I wasn't about to pay $160 for some studs.
 
  #10  
Old 06-16-2009, 07:12 AM
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I didn't reinstall the factory manifolds, installed Banks headers instead, so I sawzalled the egr tube off close to the manifold, soaked the other end that bolts up to the egr with pb and it came right off. I then used a couple of 2x4's to stradle the manifold in a vise and torched her up good to get the tube off. Real pita! I still have my old manifolds.
 
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Old 06-16-2009, 12:49 PM
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This thing is killing me. I could not get it loose. I got all 4 y-pipe nuts off though.
Cut the tube and try and mig it back together?
 
  #12  
Old 06-18-2009, 12:23 PM
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My personal hell...........
I have welded a nut to this stud twice, but it shears off each time I turn it. Its getting shorter. I still have two more studs like this and one thats busted 1/8 of an inch inside the head.
I figure I will try this until its below the head then start drilling. No use welding below the head if it keeps snapping off.


And I am unable to get this fitting off. I will sawzall this, put it in the vise and use the impact gun on it. Then weld the egr pipe back together. I'm not paying $200+ for this pipe.

I can't think of any other way to remove it.
 
  #13  
Old 06-18-2009, 01:20 PM
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For the EGR nut leverage is your friend. You'll have to hold the bottom nut with a wrench and turn the top hex. If you can get a big wrench or a pipe wrench on the bottom nut and wedge the wrench handle against the fram to hold it then you can get a big wrench on the other hex to turn it. If you can get someone to help you hold the bottom wrench it would be easier. For really stuck rusty pipes and etc I've had 800ftlb impact on them and they didn't do nothing. It took a big breaker bar and my fat *** against it to break it loose.
 
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Old 06-18-2009, 01:49 PM
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For the stud try stud removal sokets. Advanced Auto has some that are just repacked S&K sockets. They worked pretty well for me.
 
  #15  
Old 06-18-2009, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by dkf View Post
For the EGR nut leverage is your friend. You'll have to hold the bottom nut with a wrench and turn the top hex. If you can get a big wrench or a pipe wrench on the bottom nut and wedge the wrench handle against the fram to hold it then you can get a big wrench on the other hex to turn it. If you can get someone to help you hold the bottom wrench it would be easier. For really stuck rusty pipes and etc I've had 800ftlb impact on them and they didn't do nothing. It took a big breaker bar and my fat *** against it to break it loose.
800ft lbs?
My gun is a 400ft lb CP. I will have no chance.
I will buy another wrench though as I will put some "leverage" on it and I don't want to bend one of my good wrenches.
But it's at home, out in the country and now I'm in the city at work.
what size is this again?
1 3/16?
I phoned the wife but all she can see is a pile of wrenches and cannot figure out which one is the biggest....
 

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