Hey guys. About a month and a half ago I replaced my injectors. I got them used with ~80k on them. They are hypermax 238/100. A week after, my IDM fried on my way home from work. It died like I shut the key off and wouldn't even try to start. No smoke or anything. Had to get towed home.

As soon as I got my laptop I pulled the codes and nothing. So I did a buzz test and I believe it was the driver side bank wouldn't even buzz. The codes were 1293 and 1294, high side open bank 1/2. So I pulled the valve covers, and ohmed both UVCHs and both banks injectors. Everything was within specs. Next was the entire harness from the IDM. After going through two supposedly "remmaned" IDMs I got a used one that was good, and haven't had any problems for a couple weeks.

So... tonight on my way home it started missing again! Only this time it didn't die. Check engine light came on and as far as I could tell it was only running on one bank. I managed to limp home and drug out Autoenginuity again! On a whim I tried starting it again and guess what! It started just fine! Now I'm really miffed... Anyway I pulled the codes and did a buzz test and heres the results.

PCM codes
P0603 Internal Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error
P1316 Injector Driver Module Codes Detected

Theres some more but I they just the normal codes.

IDM codes here's where it gets weird
P1271 Cylinder #1 High to low side open
P1277 Cylinder #7 High to low side open
P1273 Cylinder #3 High to low side open
P1275 Cylinder #5 High to low side open
P1293 Injector High Side Open - Bank 1
P1295 Injector Multiple Faults - Bank 1

Is there any way my UVHCs could be causing this even though the ohm fine? I'm about at my wits end
Sorry for the long post.

 

Oops I forgot to tell you about the truck. Its a 2001 f350 with 285k on the clock.

 

I would definitely suspect UVCH's. IDM's really are pretty rare failures.

I would at a minimum unplug the UVCH at the passenger side valve cover and see if the center pin is melted. Probably would want to pull the VC anyway to make sure the injector harnesses are good too.

 

If this were me, I would have started with new UVCHs. My thinking would be electrical contact issues are frequently like wild animals, they are usually unpredictable and hard to trap. Bear in mind, a whole set of VC gaskets and UVCHs are cheaper than an IDM, and can fix about 99% of the situations that make the IDM suspect.

 

Well OK. I guess you're right. I should have changed them right away. I'm gonna order new ones right now and I'll pull the valve covers tonight when I get home.

I know my old idm was bad though because I swapped gaskets and uvch side to side and the drivers side still wouldn't buzz.... Besides a new one fixed the problem. Till now anyway

 

Well got the valve covers and UVCHs and nothing visible is wrong . I guess I'll have to wait till I get my new stuff on Mon

 

I will just bring up the obvious- a multimeter with 1.5 volts output on a non-running engine gives you a partial picture. Sometimes the equipment itself is a better indicator of what the problem is than the fancy-schmancy test equipment. These engines with their vibration/heat/corrosion/oils/etc. can tax those delicate electrical circuits. It is wise to always be a little cautious about coming to firm conclusions and ruling out something just because the meter "says it is ok". I have been fooled over the years so many times by meters, both on vehicles and in industrial settings.
Larry

 

Hey thanks for the input guys! I got the new gaskets and UVCHs in Mon night and guess what. No more codes! Keeping my fingers crossed but I think its fixed. If I had just done it right away I prob never would have ruined my first idm.... Oh well.

 

All right! Thanks for reporting back!


You are on your way to helping the other members.