I know these things are dogs by design, but I'm looking for a few ideas to bring new life to my 360. I have an all original 69' that has just the right amount of patina and everything is mostly original except for a drop and rims. My 360 has good compression, just rebuilt distributor, new coil, plugs/wires, headers/dual exhaust. What can I do short of a rebuild to bring this thing to life? Will a performance intake and 4 barrel do anything for power/fuel economy? I just use the truck for my daily driver (a few miles a day) and want a little more giddy up. Thanks for your input in advance!

 

Headers are the first and best upgrade on any FE.

 

2x... Stock manifolds and puny exhaust tubing are restrictive. Upgrading to headers and dual exhaust system will uncork HP and TQ which is already there. It's a difference you can really feel.

Consider Sanderson shorties (for much less installation hassle), 2.5-inch dual tubing (Speedway offers a U-weld kit for $140), and free-flowing mufflers (your call). Evaluate afterwards.

If you need/want more, then a 4V intake and 600 to 650 cfm carb with vacuum secondaries.

 

I have hedders. I think I will go the intake/4bl carb route.

 

Ya really don't need a 4V carb as the 2V is plenty. Why pump raw fuel out the new headers?
But really just the header and duel 2.5 pipes will turn that dog of a 360
into like a woop *** torque monster. Not really but ya will sure feel the difference and
get better mileage. An FE needs to get the air going back out. And Fords idea for this
sucks big time. Put on header and then see if ya need any more. But if like most of us
once ya put on headers and see the gain ya are gonna think why not do more.
Nothing more will give ya as much one on one. From here it gets costly if the price of the headers
and duel pipes don't scare ya.


Edit: I was posting as you was.
Really? The headers didn't give ya enough gain?
Sounds like you may be a bit low on compression.
Yes a 4V will help but not much. If ya are still using
a points ign than an upgrade to DSII will also help.
Than an aftermarket timing set, An RV cam.
Upgrade to a 390, 410, 427 rotating assembly. $$$$
Or do like we do up here as these old Fords are a dime
a dozen here and just put in a bigger good running FE.
I have one in a 66 F350 that I have yet to pull a plug
and see just what it is. But it will spin the duels in 3rd
gear from a stop with a cord of wood on it. Any more
of a load smokes the clutch or brakes stuff. And it has
stock exhaust. It's also for sale. If interested PM me
and I will check it out to see just what it is. Was told
it's a 427. But IDK yet. I know it pulls like a scalded
ape.
.

 

What's your timing and distributor setup like? Light springs? Getting all your timing in by 2800 RPM or so instead of the stock 4000 or so, makes a big difference.

 

I'm not sure on the distributor. Was rebuilt right before I bought it. Could tell everything was brand new when I took it off for inspection when I bought it. How do you tell? I'm not a points ignition expert by any means.

 

It seems like a big dog from stop to 25 mph and is decent at cruising speeds. Compression isn't a problem either.

 

Well - a new distributor is good. But the stock curve is usually pretty doggy. The idea there is to avoid detonation when hauling heavy loads, after all that's what pickups are for.

What tuners do to improve performance and economy, is tailor the timing advance both when and how much, better. If you check with a timing light throughout the RPM range the amount can be plotted on a chart. This is the "curve" of the distributor.

Typically a stock distributor will have very little crank or initial timing advance and way too much mechanical advance at very high RPM. Because of this, it's not just a matter of giving the distributor a healthy twist, it's got to be done as kind of a package deal. By installing lighter springs (maybe $3!) on the centrifugal weights and then advancing the initial timing, most of the advance is brought in below 3000 RPM, makes for a lot snappier performance off idle and cruising around, and better fuel economy. If you search "distributor curving" there are several hits here and webpages that will walk you through it. It's kind of a PITA on some distributors but well worth it to take the time.

 

On the lighter springs where can those be found? Was it a Ford option or strictly aftermarket?

 

Just bought Mr. Gasket Advance Curve Kits 925D on summitracing.

 

What if you switch to electronic ignition? Do you lose the ability to make these types of adjustments?

 

Just about anywhere. Mr. Gasket makes a kit, 925D, etc. Check your application, though.

You're not ready for that yet.

Look up the websites and familiarize yourself thoroughly with how timing both mechanical and vacuum advance works. First need a timing light and a tach, and ideally, damper markings going out to 40 degs BTDC - Summit and others sell timing tape for this that is easy to read.

Verify where the timing is at from idle to 4000 RPM right now, vacuum advance disc. and plugged. Your distributor may be optomized already, but I doubt it. Like I said, it's kind of tedious to set it up but it's one area where a lot of performance is left on the table and it doesn't cost much.

Another easy upgrade is to install a hot coil and the Pertronix ignitor and delete the points and condenser. Points work fine - remember that, but they do need regular attention. With a hotter coil the spark plug gap can be opened up a bit for better cold weather starts and smooth idle, etc.

Points or electronic ignition makes no difference - distributor curving and engine timing is a different department.

 

A worn timing chain will retard the cam timing, which kills torque pretty quick. Summit has a multi-position timing chain set that I used in the advanced position with good results. I also ran a torque grind cam from Delta Cams in Tacoma, and it was a real beast.